Manpuku means "I'm full!"
Written: Jul 20 '03 (Updated Apr 12 '06)
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Pros: Huge bowls of slurpy, warming ramen. Cheap and filling.
Cons: Zero ambiance, counter service only.
The Bottom Line: If ramen is what you're in the mood for, this is your East Bay destination. Cheap but decent quality.
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| lyagushka's Full Review: Manpuku |
Manpuku is a little neighborhood place that dishes up huge bowls of ramen (Japanese noodles in broth) in the Elmwood district of Berkeley. I used to live just a few blocks away and visit whenever I wanted something slurpy, warm and filling to eat. I knew that lunch or dinner here would be on my agenda sometime during my recent trip to my old East Bay stomping grounds. And it hadn't changed much at all in the time I'd been away. In short, if what you're craving is a huge bowl of ramen and don't want to pay anything extra for service or ambiance, steer yourself towards Manpuku.
Ambiance/Décor
Whoever owns Manpuku has put in essentially no effort or extra money into making this place more than minimally attractive or comfortable. The long and narrow storefront lot, with a row of tables along one side and the kitchen line with a counter on the other is serviceable but not in any way pretty or cozy. Soda parlor stools along the counter allow a view of the open kitchen, but it's not much of a show and the only reason I would sit there is if the tables were all occupied. The no frills scene is clean but sterile and definitely a few steps down from the other eateries in the area; a viable choice when you're short on cash in this otherwise pricey dining neighborhood. Nonetheless, there's a weird sort of introspective, contemplative vibe here; the restaurant is nearly always very quiet.
There's no fussing around at Manpuku with assigned seating or a waitstaff. Customers walk up to the cashier, study the laminated menu there for a few minutes, place an order, get a drink out of the reach-in refrigerator and pay up. The cashier then gives out a little plastic indicator of the order number and the customer finds a seat at a plastic, fast food type booth or at the counter.
The tables have napkin dispensers, big squeeze-bottles of Sri Racha hot sauce, a few other condiments and a bunch of disposable chopsticks in a cup. Like as not you'll also find a newspaper leftover from the previous customer. The cook who delivers your food will also provide a plastic oriental-style spoon to help with the broth. Generally the food arrives promptly, so there's no need for an appetizer if you're really hungry.
The Menu and the Food
Basically, people come here for humongous bowls of freshly prepared ramen. Manpuku means "I'm full" in Japanese and if you order a bowl of ramen, you'll be greatly challenged to finish the whole portion. There are a few other items on the menu, including udon and soba (other Japanese noodle types) as well as donburi, gyoza, and tempura dishes. There are even a few prepackaged sushi rolls and nori in the reach-in by the door. But as for myself, I've always stuck to the ramen.
The bowls of ramen always arrive piping hot. In Japan, it's customary to slurp loudly when eating the ramen. This helps cool the noodles as you eat them, so don't be inhibited - or offended - when eating here. The broth can be consumed with the spoon, or you can pick the whole enormous bowl up and sip the broth straight form the bowl the way the salary men do.
The ramen broth at Manpuku had always been very good, with a profound, rich flavor and plenty of grease swimming atop it. As the foundation of a dish of ramen, that is as it should be. I ordered the barbequed beef ramen when I last visited. I thought that the flavor of the broth had possibly diminished slightly, but it was still good. As usual, the noodles were robust, with a good consistency: chewy and substantive without being rubbery or undercooked. The thinly sliced beef and seared onions were flavorful. Other ingredients in the soup include hard boiled egg slices, squares of chopped seaweed sheets, sliced scallions, bean sprouts and the dreaded semi-circle of pink tinged fish cake. What I don't like I ignore. I don't think I've ever actually eaten an entire portion of ramen and all of the broth. Not that I haven't had fun trying. For some reason, a black cherry flavored mineral water drink compliments this dish perfectly and that's what I chose to wash it all down with.
I've noticed some patrons having the sushi here. Personally, the few pieces of fish in the tiny display refrigerator have never looked all that great to me. I would hesitate further about the sushi at Manpuku because business is generally so light that the turnover can't be very high.
There are some vegetarian items on the menu, but I've never tried them. A vegetarian could get by if dragged to Manpuku, but I certainly wouldn't recommend it as a destination for someone who eats neither meat nor fish.
Prices
Ramen servings start at $4.75 and go all the way up to $6.95. Other noodle dishes and the donburi fall into that price range as well. The bento meals and sashimi plates price out a bit higher at $5.95 to $7.95. A few ramen or bento combination meals are available for as little as $6.75 or as much as $11.95, which I believe is the most expensive item on the menu. Drinks price out in the one to two dollar range. There's free green tea, self-serve of course, for anyone who buys dinner.
Final Thoughts
I would recommend Manpuku when you're in the mood for something simple, cheap and filling. You won't have one of the best meals of your life here (I hope), but it won't bust your bank either. With the negligible service there's no need to leave a tip. And nothing in the east bay will satisfy your cravings better after a viewing of one of my favorite movies: Tampopo. I've never seen this place packed, so there should be no waiting or difficulty getting a table any time you're inclined to drop by. If you decide to drive, parking will likely be difficult. Look for spots west of College Avenue, near the library.
Details, details…
Address: 2977 College Avenue, Berkeley
Cross Street: Ashby Avenue
Phone: (510) 848-2536
Hours: Open daily 11 am - 10 pm
Reservations: none needed
Dress: quite casual
Parking: street – look for spots on Benvenue Avenue, 1 block south of Ashby
Smoking is not permitted in any restaurant in California.
I can also recommend a meal at any of the following restaurants:
East Bay
• A Coté - lively pan-Mediterranean tapas in a sleek but fun atmosphere
• Cafe Rouge - best choice for steak or high quality meats in the East Bay
• Cha-ya - vegetarian Japanese restaurant in the Gourmet Ghetto
• Chez Panisse Café - Alice Waters' sumptuous fare at about half the price
• Lalime's - superb New American fare in an intimate setting
• Nan Yang - fantastic Burmese in north Rockridge
• Oliveto - exquisite Italian in Rockridge
• Pho 84 - paradigm-shifting (really!) Vietnamese in downtown Oakland
• Rick & Ann's and La Note - both offer excellent choices for breakfast
• Shen Hua - great Chinese in Berkeley's Elmwood neighborhood
San Francisco
• Boulevard - hands down, the best restaurant in San Francisco
• Woodward's Garden, which is almost as good as Boulevard
• Betelnut - highly recommended for a fun night with a group
• Helmand - little known but excellent Afghan place and a great value
• Suppenkuche - unpretentious German bierhaus charm in Hayes Valley
On the other hand, I can't recommend Cafe Cacao, which is part of the Scharffen Berger chocolate empire, nor Pizzaiolo which features pretentious, outrageously priced pizza served by hipper-than-thou servers.
Recommended:
Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Try the barbequed beef or barbequed pork ramen, with an extra helping of vegetables (nominal charge) and a black cherry soft drink. I think you'll enjoy it.
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