Returning "home" - Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand
Written: May 07 '03 (Updated May 08 '03)
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Pros: Thailand like it was years (and in some places, centuries) ago. Incredible hospitality. Beautiful scenery.
Cons: Inner city air somewhat polluted. Water not safe to drink in many places.
The Bottom Line: Highly recommended place to visit Thailand away from crowds of western tourists. Winter is best to visit (November-April) to avoid searing summer heat and torrential fall rains.
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| pilotpat's Full Review: Nakhon Ratchasima |
It had been more than two decades, almost three, from the time I had last set foot in Thailand, which at that time was an idyllic country set apart from its neighbors by its stable government in a region otherwise marked by violent regime changes and constant civil war. Since that time, Thailand has changed significantly. Its government continues to be an island of stability in a turbulent region, but unfortunate influences, particularly in the tourist havens of Bankok, Pattya Beach, and even parts of Chang Mai, have brought the worst of two cultures together. There, unbridled selfishness and quest for the ultimate in hedonism have stripped a culture of the dignity decades of conquest were unable to breach. Though I once called coastal Thailand home, I have no desire to return.
So it was with some apprehension that I returned to Thailand, this time to the northern Thailand city of Nakhon Ratchasima, capital of the region bearing the same name. Nakhon Ratchasima is also known as "Korat," a name derived from the last syllable of the first word and first syllable of the last word in its full name. The city is steeped in both ancient and modern tradition, the latter marked by its role in the Vietnam War as host to Korat Air Base, from which some of the most legendary aviators and units of the war in South East Asia operated. So it was a privilege to fly my own fighter into Korat AB and land on the same runway that such heroes had used countless times before.
ARRIVAL
Descending from the dry and clear air at cruise altitude and over the ocean, I noticed a definite decrease in visibility due to humidity. Approaching Korat, the grey jungle haze gradually gave way to a brownish haze due typical of other "two-thirds-world" cities due to the preponderance of diesel and two-cycle gasoline vehicles. By the time we were on final approach, visibility was down to less than five miles, giving the lush green jungle below and blue sky above a yellow-brown tint.
After shutting down engines, I popped the canopy. My air conditioned cucoon instantly was invaded by thick, warm, and humid air. After putting our jets and other equipment "to bed," we jumped into minivan taxis to our hotel. The roads to the hotel brought us through various sections of town, some rich, some poor, some poorer, and some so Western one could imagine being in the United States if it weren't for the Tuk-Tuks (see below) racing through the streets and the fact that all the faces save ours were Asian.
For that matter, our hotel was quite Western as well click here for a review of the Royal Princess Korat. And if I had the inclination, I could easily have spent my non-flying time during this three-week visit never venturing outside the comforts of Western life. But what a waste that would have been.
TRANSPORTATION
Although we were provided minibuses with drivers to get to and from the base, our primary mode of transportation on our free time was by "Tuk-Tuk" - a three-wheeled motorscooter named for the sound their 2-cycle motors make, in which the passengers sit in a small bench seat behind the driver. Tuk-Tuks are often elaborately decorated with colorful metallic paint schemes, and other decorations to set them apart. They usually have a canvas top to keep out some of the rain. There are no taxi meters - one negotiates the price with the driver (BEFORE sitting in the Tuk-Tuk, lest you find yourself responsible for an expensive ride). Usually, I was able to negotiate a rate of 30-50 baht for the 10 minute ride into the town center. Every once in a while, a driver would hold out for "roi" (100) baht, in which case it is not considered impolite to ask the next driver in line for a better rate (usually the first driver would concede immediately to the lower rate at this point).
Tuk-Tuk rides are often harrowing, especially considering their lack of stability. But if it's not "fun enough" for you, you can follow our practice of offering the driver double the fare if he got there before our buddies in another Tuk-Tuk. Hold on tightly and shut your eyes.
DISCOVERING KORAT
If you have read some of my other reviews, you may be aware of my heartfelt belief that the best place to experience another culture is in its markets. This is especially so in "Two-Thirds-World" cultures, which view the social value of markets as improtant as their economic value. Korat proved no exception to this rule. In Korat center, there are three distinct options for shopping the markets.
KORAT MALL
If for some reason you have travelled halfway around the globe to experience an environment similar to that which you left, the thoroughly Western mall in Korat is for you. In all seriousness, this area did serve me well for some specialized needs - an ATM, 35mm film and camera batteries, and a nice drugstore. It's also a sure-fire place to flag down a Tuk-Tuk. Other than that, you'll find basic clothing and chinese-made souvenirs.
STREETSIDE STOREFRONTS
On the streets near the mall, you'll find many store-front style stores ranging from small groceries to cameras/watches to souvenirs/crafts. I did find some basic knick-knack locally made gifts here to bring home to friends and family. As you get farther from the mall, the atmosphere changes more to a market setting, and you will find more locally-produced goods. On the sidewalks, you will find fruits/vegetables, various prepared snacks/meals, and both hand- and machine-woven silk for sale. Along one street were about 8-10 sewing machines set up under umbrellas, each manned by a Thai who specializes in anything from button replacement to tailoring. If you drop off your clothes in the morning, they will be mended/adjusted by evening - high quality, low prices.
COVERED MARKET
The market in city center is a huge open-walled structure filled with merchants selling fresh and dried fish, vegetables, fruit, clothing, and just about everything else. This is where my "survival Thai" really came in handy (click here for my "Top Travel Tips," including my recommendations for minimum survival language skills).
I spent much of my free time practicing my latest Thai phrases, combined with smiles and polite gestures, haggling with merchants. Often, groups of people would gather around the table I was at to laugh with (but mostly "at") the tall American speaking broken Thai.
POTTERY MARKETPLACE
This is a huge (probably about a half-mile long) pottery market on the outskirts of the city. A great variety of locally-made pottery is for sale, whether your tastes are small and delicate or large and ornate. Interspersed among the local pottery are several opportunities to buy more of those chinese-made souvenirs, which will cost you more than the nicer pottery.
WATS
As Buddhism is the primary religion of this region, Wats (Buddhist temples) abound. Most are beautifully ornate, and their roofs incorporate tiers of elephants with upraised trunks. Should you visit a Wat (and I recommend that you do), make sure that you familiarize yourself with the "dos and don'ts) of the culture. A good guide, or your hotel concierge, can help you with these and ensure that you do not end up causing a civil disturbance.
SPIRIT HOUSES
Another religious tradition is to build colorful and detailed miniature houses in front of a new building. I heard many explanations for the purpose behind these, but the most common (and believable considering the animist nature of Buddhism) is that it kept the spirits out of the
real house by giving them a place to live. These spirit houses are kept decorated with fresh flowers and offerings of food. Again, be respectful of the culture and ask a lot of questions before posing for your picture in front of one of these.
DISCOVERING THE REGION
One weekend, several of us hired a van and driver for a day-long excursion. When he asked where we wanted to go, I said, "Show us your Thailand." His eyes sparkled. The day was long, exhausting, busy, and incredible!
BURIRAM MUSEUM
This stop was a museum of ancient Siamese/Thai history. Statues, jewelry, armament, and other artifacts from thousands of years ago were arranged in an orderly, chronological fashion similar to some of the finer museums in the States. The outdoor covered display of huge stone pillars and blocks from ancient temple sites was fantastic, complimented by the immense butterflies (larger than an outstretched hand) that fluttered to the flowers growing along the walks.
PRASAT HIN PHIMAI
Once a royal temple and monastery, these grounds are spectacular, if a bit crowded with tourists. The sandstone towers ("Prasat" in Thai) and sculptures still stand, surrounded by lush green wooded lawns. The sheer size of some of the construction is amazing, especially considering that all the work was done by hand, perhaps with the assistance of Oxen and Elephants. A small market sits outside the gates, predominated by clothing and silk merchants.
BAN PRASAT ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE
This is a very small museum centered around a still-active archaological dig of an ancient burial grounds. The dig continues to descend into the earth, and at each level, a step has been kept with a set of remains (or replicas of remains) representing the different burial practices of each era represented by that level. The signage was entirely in Thai, but between my very broken Thai and his not-quite-as-broken English, we were able to get a lot of the "gist."
PHANOM RUNG
The whole title for this place is actually Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung. Situated on the top of an extinct volcano, one can see neighboring Laos from the anceint Khmer Temple's vantage points. This temple also had many tourists, but most were Thai. Be ready to climb lots of steps, but the view is awe-inspiring. The sculptures are more ornate and slightly better preserved in this temple than in Phimai. A market between the temple and parking lot specializes in locally made silver crafts at very reasonable prices.
HEALTH AND WELFARE
Water/food
The tap water here is not generally safe for Westerners to drink. Locals have built up resistance to the bacteria found in the water, but chances are that you have not. In fact, the local government runs a bottled water plant, and the water is available for very little money. I recommend asking for bottled water and ensuring that the seal is opened in your presence (some restaurants refill the bottles). Ice and beverages made with water are usually not a good idea either (one could argue that coffee and tea are sufficiently boiled to kill the bad things in it), as are uncooked vegetables. Some restauraunts maintain Western standards for their Western clients. Peeled fruits and veggies are usally good to eat. I would recommend a portable water purifier for extended trips outside of the city. By the way, the locally made "Beer Chang" (Thai lesson: Beer=Beer, Chang=Elephant, and thus "Elephant Beer") is good.
General Sanitation
Whenever I travel, I cary a pocket-sized bottle of instant sanitizing hand lotion. This is a "don't forget" in Thailand. Many of the restrooms are quite dirty, and remembering that the water is not good to drink, I usually wash with soap and water, air dry my hands, and then sanitize them.
LOCAL CULTURE
The Thai culture is the most friendly I have ever experienced in any of my travels. I would make sure that you spent some time learning the basics of their culture and language before travelling. The "Wai" greeting is compex and important, and perhaps best explained by a local, but if you learn the basics, you will be impressed by the difference it can make. This is the Thailand I wanted to return to, and I was glad that it hadn't fallen too far towards the stylings of present-day Bankok and Pattya.
SHAMELESS LINKS
Click Here to read my review of the Hotel Royal Princess Korat.
You'll want a sturdy set of hiking boots - Click Here to read my review on Raichle GTX boots.
Of course, you'll need a camera, like the Fuji Finepix 3800 Digital Camera.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb
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Member: Pat
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