amcm's Full Review: Shiva Naipaul - North of South: An African Journey
This is a candid account of a six month journey through east Africa made in the late seventies. The Hindu author - brother of Nobel laureate V.S. Naipaul - records his impressions of three newly independent countries, the people he meets along the way, and often their attitudes to him. It isn't a flattering picture that emerges but it is very readable. If you want to know what Africa is like in the flesh, this is a good place to start.
The author's journey begins in Brussels, where he catches a flight to Zaire. At the airport there are several groups which become typical in his later travels: expatriate whites with a residue of status; grasping Africans loaded with Western gadgets: and 'Asians' wary of border guards and conscious of being hated. He doesn't seem to have enjoyed his trip but he is observant.
From Zaire to Nairobi via Rwanda. An English girl asks her companion if the tall ones kill the short ones in Rwanda, or the other way round. An Asian man worries about his visa for Kenya and whether he can get his relatives to Canada. Several suitcases go missing in Nairobi but are found by the airline days later. The Asian man is refused entry until a bribe is paid. The pattern is set for an abnormal experience.
The author has a list of contacts to visit, mainly former colonials. As an Indian, he has an interesting perspective on racial matters. The whites keep a stiff upper lip on their farms and socially. The Asians keep to themselves and Africans resent this. Frequently Africans seethe about how "you people get everywhere". In Tanzania the headlines declare that "Indian doctors kill their patients". The author concludes that Indians are hated more than whites. In return he exposes African ineptitude and self-importance. The lasting impression is not a positive one.
Tanzania is officially socialist, with China and Cuba as esteemed allies. But the Chinese-built railway has an African staff, which means dirty toilets, broken cups, missing keys, and unreliable service. On the surface is socialism, but underneath is Africa.
On a final truck journey with some Europeans heading to 'South' an American confides in the author that he wants to experience white supremacism in Rhodesia before it disappears. He had a different attitude before he came to Africa. And indeed this is what 'North of South' conveys more than anything. The reality doesn't sustain liberal illusions.
Even if you don't care too much about Africa, this is a good read: part history, politics, and novel rolled into one.
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