As a saison, a near miss. As a beer, not bad.
Written: Jan 11 '08 (Updated Jan 11 '08)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: A bit cheaper than Saison Dupont and not bad in its own right.
Cons: Not as good as genuine Belgian saison. Cumin/coriander note is strange for the style.
The Bottom Line: Hennepin is somewhat atypical of saison in that the hops are relegated to the background by yeasty phenols and esters. It isn't bad, but is an outlier in the style.
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| bkalafut's Full Review: Ommegang Hennepin |
Ommegang Brewery, of Cooperstown, NY, has made a name for itself producing beers in imitation of or inspired by traditional Belgian styles. While it hasn't succeeded as much in those efforts as competitor New Belgium Brewing Company in matching the flavors or quality of the imports, it has nonetheless produced a line of consistently good brews, and this is no exception.
I'll take Ommegang's word that Hennepin, named after one of the first European explorers of upstate New York, is truly a saison (a Wallonian style of bottle-conditioned, summer-aged farmouse ale), but it doesn't come as close to matching the leading exponents of the style, such as Saison Dupont, as the brewery's flagship Ommegang comes to a dubbel.
It has the expected big foamy head and pale gold color and some of the complexity, too, but a whiff of banana and coriander nearly masking the citrus, resinous hops just about lead me to believe this was a wit in disguise. Sweet and sour, medium-bodied, and even a bit sticky but with enough acidity to match, its flavor is dominated by band-aid phenols and a musty, cumin or coriander-like spiciness. Citrus hop flavors are more of a background note and bitterness is moderate. The spice, acid, and sugar render Hennepin an easy food pairing and it served well in that capacity alongside a plate of tamales.
The yeast went rampant in the making of Hennepin due perhaps to too warm a fermentation, and not to bad effect, either, but if I'm in the mood for saison, I'll stick with imports for now. If, on the other hand, I'm looking for a pale ale more generally, I'll take or leave Hennepin based on what I'm eating and what else is available.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID: bkalafut
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in Restaurants & Gourmet |
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Member: Bennett Kalafut
Location: Tucson, AZ, USA
Reviews written: 189
Trusted by: 26 members
About Me: Stretching single molecules for fun and profit.
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