travelmess's Full Review: Panasonic Lumix® DMC-L1 Digital Camera
I've had my L1 for a little over a month. My previous cameras included my "main" camera, being a Leica M2 (1963 to 1999), a couple of earlier Leica models, an original Leicaflex, a Kodak twin-lens reflex, a Canon F1 and Rebel "G", an old Vivitar w/ Asahi lens and, more recently, a Panasonic Lumix FZ10. Today I have the FZ10, L1, and the Vivitar. I've had the FZ10 for just under 3 years. I think it's important for readers to get a sense of my own equipment base. For those of you who think the "Leica" brand name is not worth it, or think that Panasonic/Lumix lenses are not "real" Leica lenses but instead "Japanese" lenses with some Leica input, you might as well not bother with this opinion. In addition, for those who have heard that Panasonic's digital cameras have too much "noise", I also suggest avoiding this opinion.
For those who care to read on, I think this camera is phenomenal, albeit complex. The manual, needless to say, must have been translated by a cryptographer, as you can miss some really important and/or cool features if you're not careful. The camera also may not function the way you'd like or expect if you don't carefully use the setup menus although on a default it is close to a point and shoot. I've already had to call Panasonic for help twice and each time the people at the help desk really didn't know the answers and had to call me back. They did, which is a good thing, but when I asked follow-up questions, they seemed clueless. I keep wondering if you speak Japanese and can reach the home office help desk, they may have a better handle on the nuances of the camera. Otherwise, it is like any new piece of sophisticated technology; you need to work with it and become one with it, to get out of it what you want. If you do, my sense after a month's use is that you will get more than you bargained for.
First and foremost, there's the lens. It's part of the new "4/3rds" system that is pioneered by Panasonic/Lumix and Olympus. It is a uniform lens mount coupled with sensor system that attempts to provide a uniform formula rather than the myriad of systems out in the marketplace. Whether anyone else falls in line with a 4/3rds camera system, lens series or body of it own, has yet to be determined. For the moment, the brand name lenses are 2 by Panasonic/Leica [a 14-50mm (digital mm equates to 28-100mm 35mm format) comes standard w/ the L1 body] and an entire system by Zuiko, the Olympus lens house. Sigma also has produced some lenses that are compatible. The BIG difference is that the L1 kit lens (14-50mm D) has the Panasonic's proven Optical Image Stabilization built into it, whereas the Zuiko lenses do not. Also, some functions need to be handled differently, such as manual f-stop in a shutter speed priority mode.
Again, the lens. If you're not a "Leica" fan, the fact that the lens is probably 2/3 of the cost of the total kit may seem like a boatload. There are many detractors of lenses that come w/ Panasonic/Lumix cameras that carry the brand name "Leica". Most of them say the lenses are not "real" Leica lenses, and that to be a Leica lens it has to be ground and fabricated in the Fatherland. The reality is that ever since the introduction of the Leica M5 (in the mid-1970's) Leica has been in partnership w/ one or another Japanese fabricator, and in fact the lenses for that camera were all manufactured in Japan while the bodies were manufactured in Germany. The reality is that with few exceptions, all camera lenses are manufactured in Japan.
Again, the lens. Having worked with Canon, Kodak (Schneider etc), Voigtlander (the Bentley of Leicas), Olympus, Vivitar, Asahi and other lenses, I still come back to the Leica lens as the pre-eminient camera glass. To me it's a combination of size (Leica lenses pack the same capabilities into a package that's typically half the size of other camera/lens makers, quality (sorry IMHO there's nothing as sharp or color-natural). Today, durability may be the only difference because of the integrated electronics. The L1 kit lens gives you, within certain parameters, a 35mm equivalent of a 28-600mm zoom. Yes, I said 600. Now that's w/ extended optical zoom + 10x digital zoom + 3meg picture size engaged, but (a) that will still result in a 5x7 - 8x10 w/o cropping and (b) I can't think of another "prosumer" lens that has the ability to maintain sharpness up to that kind of tolerance, and (c) gives you a max 3.5 fstop which to me is huge. Then there's the manual focus and f-stop ring simulating a rangefinder camera which is one of the attractions of an L1 for those of us who came of age on rangefinders. And the OIS (Optical image stabilization) built into the kit lens, which is one of the few effective IS systems out there, and helps reduce (somewhat) the need for a tripod. At the other end of the mm is macro, and even though the basic kit lens has a .9' close-up you can simulate a macro down to a few inches w/ the zoom function on. Ultimately, you can buy the dedicated macro lens for those who like a lot of lenses to carry around. Enough with the lens.
The sensor: there are 2 basic kinds of sensors out there. One is the CCD, which has been the industry standard pretty much since the inception of digitals. More recently there's the CMOS. The primary differences between the 2 kinds are that (1) how each captures an imaege and (2) how each transmits the captured image for storage. The CCD captures pixels and then, like a bulldozer shoving lines of lemmings, shoves them to the edge of the sensor, where the imaging enging (in the L1 a "Venus III") brain interprets the image and then sends it on for storage. The CMOS puts the "brain" right into the sensor, so that as soon as the pixels capture the image it is immediately interpreted and then all the interpreted pixels are sent pretty much simultaneously to storage. The difference is that (a) in the CCD because of the way it works the information, as it travels across the CCD can develop alzheimers before it hits the brain, which then can't unscramble info, whereas the CMOS locks in the info before shipping it off, and (b) the CCD requires more power, hence shorter battery life. The L1 has a CMOS sensor. It's not as large is the largest ones out there, but it is matched to the lens and so far not only does it perform quickly but also the battery life is tremendous. In fact, the CMOS sensor was developed for the L1 and Olympus E-330 because both have what is called "live view" which means that because of the speed of the sensor you're actually able to see the image you will capture on live view, whereas with your typical viewfinder it is a miniature video screen and not the "real" image. So the technology piggy-backs.
Now a lot of people grouse about "noise" in Panasonics. Noise is the apparently random pixelation in lower light and/or higher ISO, so that when you crop/enlarge, suddenly you'll see a bunch of odd color pixels where you want a uniform color. Much like some men's beards: the overall appearance may be brown, but when you get close you see black, red and blond hairs (best analogy I can come up w). Back in "film" days, the higher the ISO (film speed), the more "grain" you saw. This is much the same and frankly I think noise is much ado about nothing. Anyhow, the L1 has a built-in noise reduction system (NR) that I haven't even had to use yet, and w/ digitals post-capture manipulation can be done with noise reduction software if it is that offensive. And in film days, you saw "noise" at any speed over 125, whereas w/ the L1 noise doesn't really even become apparently til over 400. And so I don't care. FINALLY, one of the formats (electronically controlled ways of storing captured images) is called "RAW" which allows for even higher quality than standard storage formats (such as JPG) and the L1 comes with "Silkypix" which is RAW software that is oen of the better software packages out there.
And another word about "Live View". Only Olympus and Panasonic have it. Is it worth it? If you're an "A" type it is. Otherwise, again it is something that if you learn its capabilities may be a plus; otherwise it is just a costly addition. It effectively gives you through the lens capabilities via the LCD in addition to the optical viewfinder.
Other Electronics/features: The L1 is billed as a ‘Hey you almost a rangefinder’. It has manual fstop, focus and zoom rings and manual shutter speed dial. When you take either the fstop or shutter out of “A” (automatic mode) it automatically shifts to an aperture or shutter priority. And a command dial allows you to whisk an exposure compensation to achieve a higher or lower depth of field (DOF). And then there are outboard metering switches, and single/multiple/burst switch. The lag time (shutter release to image capture) is virtually NIL even w/ live view and/or flash, as is the start-up time. Additional outboarded buttons include ISO and White Balance. There are additional tricks like when focusing if you’ve set the camera to “Several” on focus points, you can use the left/right cursor to choose one, two or three (blended/average) focus points, which helps immensely in low light where the Autofocus Assist lamp gets confused w/ 2 or more focus points.
Bounce Flash: In addition to a “regular” straight ahead flash, the L1 like the LC1 has a bounce flash built into the regular flash. For photographers who understand what it does, great. For others, it literally bounces the flash off a ceiling which softens the flash and thus reduces harsh shadows among other things, simulating more of a “pro” lighting setup. Flash options again are easily accessed, as is the ability to regulate the flash output with the command dial.
Ergonomics: This is NOT a lightweight piece of equipment. Granted, you can dismount the lens when traveling or storage to make space, but if you prefer a featherweight this is not your camera. If you like a hefty grip and placement of knobs and buttons, then it’s a winner. I can’t use the lightweights -- so this is perfect, and so are the location of the hand grip, shutter release and other buttons, knobs. About the only thing that is a bit awkward is that the f-stop ring is closest to the camera body and is a little tight. I even read a review that said the shutter release button was in an awkward location. I don’t care what it is, you have to get your hands around a piece of equipment and if it doesn’t work for you, that may be the end of it. Then again I can barely use most cell-phones; my fingers are just too big it seems.
Software: The basic software is Windows only. Silkypix is Windows and Mac. Unlike other Lumix cameras, the L1 doesn’t offer the kind of software you can better get from Adobe Photoshop except for Silkypix, which is for RAW format only.
Menu Options: More than the average bear, so you can highly customize the camera. This includes 16:9 as well as 4:3 and 3:2 aspects, from 3 to full 7.5 megapixel images, various ‘film types’ (ie how the camera simulates a film camera, including black & white) and so forth.
Battery Life: With the CMOS I have had the battery life good for 300+ images. The camera can sit around for a week and still have a full charge (not recommended but I forget to remove the battery).
I could go on, but I suppose one other area is product support. First, it is a complex camera. But Panasonic has already issued one firmware (that's the electonic software built into the camera that makes it work) update that corrected a couple of things that irritated some folks, and that was by download off the net. Panasonic is a global company, and is IMHO the premier electronics company. Their support system is vast, and perhaps cumbersome, but I have no complaints w/ them yet. Figure this: a few years ago the papers reported that there was a massive failure of CCDs in digital still and camcorders in particular. Just about EVERY maker had problems: Canon, Sony, Nikon, Olympus...Panasonic was one of the FEW exceptions. I have several Panasonic products and they are all 100% electronically. On the other hand I will say that when the CCD did fail on my Canon camcorder after its warranty expired, Canon did pay for shipping and fix, although it took several weeks to get it back.
In order to bring this to closure, let me give an example of the camera's complexity/sophistication. If you point to the sky and want to focus, the camera has nothing to focus on (no object). If you have "Focus Priority" on, which forces the camera to focus SOMETHING in view, and it can't find anything to focus on, it won't let you take a picture. But if you turn "Focus Priority" off, the camera will let you take any picture you want w/ or w/o anything being in focus, but as to imaging the sky, for example, the camera automatically defaults to "infinity" in that situation, and your "sky" picture, say of a distant cloud, is clear as a bell.
Recommended:
Yes
Amount Paid (US$): 1700 This Camera is a Good Choice if You Want Something... Solid Enough for a Professional
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