Restaurant Peony - Quite Possibly the Best Dim Sum in Oakland
Written: Jul 16 '01 (Updated Jul 16 '01)
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Pros: Tasty Dim Sum With a Terrific Variety.
Cons: Pricey Dim Sum With Spotty Service.
The Bottom Line: It's a must if you're willing to dole out the extra few dollars and not whine about it.
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| megugrrrl's Full Review: Peony |
Due to work, I've spent a lot of time milling about downtown Oakland’s dim sum places as of late. My pick? Restaurant Peony – hidden on the 2nd floor near the satellite cop office that's always closed in the Pacific Renaissance Plaza. It's the best dim sum in Oakland’s Chinatown, but it doesn’t win by much.
Dim Sum in a Nutshell
OK - for all the dim sum virgins, let's review.
As with most dim sum places, once you’re seated, you just pick out dishes from women pushing around carts. There are four basic types of dim sum, with each dish varying in price at Peony from $2.20 - $8.60.
1. Steamed stuff – adorable little steamed dumplings (resembling overstuffed pillows and cushions) stuffed with a variety of delicacies like scallops, shrimp, or pork. Steamed barbecued pork buns also fit into this category.
2. The Small Dish group (for lack of a better descriptor) – small dishes of things like spareribs, chicken feet, fat and silky chow-fun noodles, or just about anything that doesn’t fit into any other category.
3. The Deep-fried Lot - egg rolls, pork triangles, crab puffs and all things golden brown.
4. The Dessert Carts – Loaded with things like sesame seed balls, huge slices of sponge cake, coconut jelly, and those delightful egg-custard tarts.
For the uninitiated and curious, you can find pictures of some dim sum dishes at : http://www.dimsum.com/ds1.html
The Setting
Peony is spacious and bright with crisp peach and bright white linens. And, unlike other dim sum houses in the East Bay, the tables aren’t squashed together so you don’t feel as crowded. On the weekends (like every other dim sum place) be prepared to wait for up to an hour for a table. (Also check out the fish tanks located near the rear of the restaurant – you can order them cooked to your specs – but know that you pay by the pound!)
Why is Restaurant Peony the Best?
I have chosen Restaurant Peony as the best dim sum for the simple reason that it’s not as greasy as other places and has a better variety than places I’ve been to. Less grease translates to better tasting food and no sickening food coma after the meal. Don’t get me wrong, dim sum at other places in Chinatown Oakland can be terrific, but Peony is consistent and less greasy, and of course, consistently less greasy.
All the dim sum dishes here are tops, from the standbys like har gow (those cute tiny moon-shaped shrimp dumplings) and turnip cakes to the slightly more novel things like shrimp stuffed peppers and roast duck chow fun noodles.
Short-comings
Alas, while I feel Restaurant Peony serves up the best dim sum there are a few drawbacks that prevent me from doling out 5 stars. Some Epinions mention that Restaurant Peony is pricey. Yes and No. Yes it’s pricey for dim sum, especially in relation to other cheap Oakland Chinatown eats (my average has ranged from $10 - $16 for lunch) and they charge ‘tea tax’ (which boils down to $1 a person), but, in the end, you get what you pay for. It’s good.
And, while the staff looks professional dressed in suit-like garb, the service can stink. At places like Jade Villa, you can tell everyone has been instructed to be helpful and polite; and they are. At Peony it feels like morale is low as the women pushing carts around oftentimes ignore tables and getting your drinks (other than the $1 tea) is painfully slow. Sometimes it also feels like they’re under-carted at Peony, as the wait in between carts seems longer.
Pick Your Poison
I suppose it’s all a matter of preference and everyone’s tolerance levels; I’m willing to deal with the indifferent service, “tea tax” and slightly higher prices to be able to enjoy less greasy dim sum. If you haven’t tried Restaurant Peony, you should give this place a try.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: No
Best Suited For: Friends
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Epinions.com ID:
megugrrrl
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 - Top 500 |
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Location: Oakland
Reviews written: 147
Trusted by: 321 members
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