Palladin's Spirit Lives On.......Pesce, Washington, D.C.
Written: Feb 19 '02 (Updated Feb 22 '02)
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Pros: Light, beautifully prepared fish and pasta from a changing menu
Cons: No reservations policy means you may have to wait for a table
The Bottom Line: Highly recommended for five star fish at three star prices. Cheerful service, relatively reasonable prices with great fish make this a winner.
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| tombarnes's Full Review: Pesce |
I have just returned from an early lunch at Pesce on P Street, just off Dupont Circle in Washington, D.C.. Having not been there in a long while, I thought it worth going in to see if it was still as good as I had remembered. YES! If anything, it was even better.
Location
Directly on P Street, just half a block from Dupont Circle, Pesce has a coveted location which guarantees lots of street traffic. So much, in fact, that they have a no-reservations policy that can make it difficult to get in. It's well worth the wait, if you do decide to stand in line. At lunch, however, there are rarely any lines, so this may be a good time to visit. Not having a car, I don't have to worry about parking, but this could be a problem for some visitors.
Decor
Warm exposed brick walls are set off by white plaster and bright wooden parrotfish and other art on the walls. This is a bistro of sorts, so do not be put off by the green linoleum floor or the cheerful yellow oilcloth on the tables. This is a simple restaurant which holds no delusions of grandeur. Colorful pottery sits on bright painted shelves in various places around the room. Overall, the decor is cheerful and pleasant.
Menu
That the restaurant was the brainchild of the late, great, and irascible Jean Louis Palladin should surprise no one. His former wife, Regine Palladin, runs the place like a tight ship. Her eye for quality is as sharp as the master's was, and you should rise from your table with pleasure after a meal here.
First Course
I began with a light and creamy asparagus and nutmeg soup ($6.75). Served in a wide, shallow white bowl, the presentation was half the pleasure. The other half was definitely the soup itself. The nutmeg was distinct, but did not overpower the asparagus. The cherry tomatoes used for garnish actually had flavor, something rarely found in cherry tomatoes these days.
Other first courses were the carpaccio of salmon, tuna tartare, and rockfish ceviche. The last item is truly a find, with just a bit of garlic and cayenne somewhere inside. I was glad to see it was still there.
Second Course
There are usually at least two light and well thought out salads on the menu. On this visit, I did not have a salad, but have had them before. The baby spinach salad with smoked trout, goat cheese, raisins and a honey-champagne vinaigrette is worth trying. I was having smoked trout as my main course and avoided this redundancy.
The mixed green salad is fresh and attractive, if not unusual.
Main Course
The fettuccine with smoked trout and spinach was served with a deliriously good chipote cream sauce ($12.50). So many places overdo it with the chipotle, and one tastes nothing else. This dish had a perfect balance. The pasta was also nicely al dente, not the soggy or chewy mound one so often finds on a plate.
Other specials offered from the blackboard (they do not have a regular printed menu here) included John Dory with five spices, rockfish with a sweet potato puree and asparagus and a whole black bass. Most of the fish dishes are in the neighborhood of $15.00-$20.00.
Dessert
I have never made it to dessert here. The selection is small, but good.
Wine List
The wine list is not huge, but includes a number of modestly priced good wines. Mme. Palladin has used care here to choose good, but modest wines. Most bottles fall under $30.00, but some go skyward, so be sure to ask the waiter for advice.
Cost
The prices are modest, considering the quality of the food. My lunch of two courses without wine came to about $26.00. The prices have remained stable for several years now.
Overall
I highly recommend Pesce if you are looking for a deftly prepared dinner without the bother and expense of a four or five star restaurant. Expect the service to be as cheerful as the decor. Mme. Palladin is a gracious hostess.
Pesce
2016 P Street, NW
Washington, DC 20036
Open Monday-Friday, 11:30-2:30 Pm for lunch
Monday-Thursady, 5:30-10:30 PM for dinner
Friday, Saturday 5:30-10:30 PM
Sunday 5:00-9:00 PM
All major credit cards are accepted.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Blackboard menu changes daily, small tables, no reservations, casual clothing is fine
Best Suited For: Friends
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Epinions.com ID:
tombarnes
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 - Top 100 |
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Member: Thomas Barnes
Location: Fort Lauderdale & Washington, DC
Reviews written: 684
Trusted by: 441 members
About Me:
With Barbara in Miami, 2004
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