Pulling Levers on the Wayback Machine
Written: Apr 09 '09 (Updated Sep 09 '09)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Simple, rugged design; thermosyphon group heads; huge boiler; excellent steam; ease of use & cleanup
Cons: Price; smaller shots with less crema than pump machines; inconvenient anachronisms
The Bottom Line: The Lusso shows that being mired in the past isn't always a bad thing. For lever espresso newbies and nostalgia junkies, it's the cat's meow.
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| waynio's Full Review: Ponte Vecchio Lusso Two Group Espresso Machine |
When I decided to upgrade from the Starbucks Sirena, I wanted an espresso machine that would fit in a small corner of my kitchen, yet still give high performance, esp. the ability to pull shots and steam milk simultaneously. All the prosumer heat-exchanger (HX) and dual boiler machines were ruled out by my space constraints, except for the Elektra Semiautomatica, which was simply too expensive.
I ultimately chose the Ponte Vecchio Lusso, a revival of the old-school SAMA spring lever from the '70s. As with most levers, the Lusso's design has remained nearly unchanged for decades. Ponte Vecchio's only recent concession to modernity was to add a low water level cut-off switch to protect the boiler element. In every other respect, the Lusso (available in 1 and 2-group versions) may be regarded as a "brand-new antique". Like the more famous La Pavoni Europiccola and the Elektra Microcasa a Leva, the Lusso shows that "old & simple" can be just as good as "new & sophisticated" (even better, in some ways).
The Lusso resembles the commercial levers from the 1950's, in miniature. Under the hood is a massive nickel-plated brass boiler with plumbing for the steam wand, hot water wand, pressure gauge, sight glass, and the group heads. There is just one switch, to turn the boiler on & off, and indicator lights to tell you when the boiler element is on and when the water level is too low (at that point, the element shuts off automatically). The pressure-stat, which regulates the water temperature, is in my opinion set too high at the factory, but it is easy to adjust with a screwdriver, once you get the cover off.
The 2-group version has the same dimensions as the 1-group: 11"H x 14.2"W x 11"D. The two color schemes most available in the U.S. are all stainless-steel and stainless with black enamel sides & back. The front panel has just enough room for two groups, but to accommodate them, the steam and hot water wands had to be given an extra 45 degree outward bend. This has the look of an afterthought; had I been designing the 2-group, I would have added ball-joints to allow the wands to point wherever I want (that's standard on pump machines). And I would have moved the power switch to the side, away from the steam tip. As it is, the functionality of the wands on the 2-group is not impaired, nor do I regard the arrangement as especially risky. Then again, the assumption behind lever machines is that the operator can follow instructions and has enough common sense to avoid injury; for ex., always keeping one's face away from the lever. The Lusso's deliberately retro design is so contrarian, it appeals mainly to those eccentrics (like myself) who seek the most hands-on style of espresso-making possible.
In everyday use, the Lusso is a paradox: though at times it demands attention almost to the point of inconvenience, it is both a high performer and surprisingly forgiving for a lever. In that sense it is a major upgrade from my Sirena. The warm-up is a minor hassle, in that one must bleed off false pressure from the boiler and check that the steam and hot water knobs are tight (the valves are so old-fashioned, expansion and contraction will make the wands leak otherwise). Then one has to flush a little boiler water through each group to prime the thermosyphon. Then one can either leave the machine alone for 30-45 minutes, or accelerate the warm-up by flushing more water through the groups; for ex., two cups per group will bring the heads to operating temperature rapidly. This workaround is only advisable when starting with a full boiler. The warming tray on top works well enough; however I would not store my entire cup collection there, as the tray has to be removed whenever draining or filling the boiler.
The Lusso's self-regulating thermosyphon effect means that its group heads are far less likely to overheat than those of other levers. That's a major plus if you're making more than two espresso drinks in a session. With the massive 3-liter boiler, the Lusso is suitable for parties, where the theatricality of lever-pulling will likely be appreciated. However it is not a commercial machine and would not be used for professional catering. For one thing, the boiler cannot be plumbed-in, and it must be allowed to cool off before refilling. Though it is possible to empty the boiler by siphoning with a rubber tube, the quick way is to invert the machine over the sink. Changing the water every day or so is part of the routine one has to get used to; otherwise the water develops a metallic taste.
When it comes to actually pulling shots, the Lusso produces delightful results with surprising ease. There are probably a number of factors contributing to this, for ex.: the relatively deep & narrow 45 mm filter baskets; lower brew pressure (6-7 bar, compared to 9 bar for pump machines); the spring lever's steady pressure without the forceful pulsing of electric pumps; and thermal stability (relatively speaking). Whatever the reason, this is the sort of lever that will appeal to newbies and veteran lever-heads alike. The Lusso's ease of use is, however, dependent on very strigent prerequisites, i.e., freshly roasted coffee beans (ideally less than one week post-roast) and a high-quality burr grinder. My workhorse Rancilio Rocky grinder is "just adequate" for the task; if I were starting over today, my first grinder would be either a Mazzer Mini or a Macap M4 with stepless adjustment.
Though the quality of the Lusso's shots may be consistently very good, the quantity produced with each pull of the lever is quite small; Lusso's double barely qualifies as a single. To get anything like a standard double shot requires more than one pull, and that's where it gets challenging. The 1-1/2 pull "Fellini Move" (as lever-heads call it) is the easiest to learn. Over time, the barista gains a feel for the process; the Lusso's sensitivity to grind, dose, and tamp is actually a plus, once one learns to work with it.
In any case, anyone making the transition from pump machine to lever will need to shift expectations. The spring lever's lower pressure means that shots tend to have less crema and body than those from pump machines. For those who appreciate the difference, lever shots tend to have greater clarity of flavor. The effect is analogous to hearing music through audiophile speakers. As I discovered first hand, even if you've heard a certain recording many times, listening again through elite-quality speakers can be a revelation. That's what happens taste-wise when one pulls espresso on prosumer equipment -- which, by the way, one rarely finds in stores. These days, machines like the Lusso are usually purchased online; that's how I got mine on sale for $1,106. Regardless of the brand, it is vital to select a vendor with a solid reputation in the espresso community; they can vary widely in the quality of service.
Thanks to the big boiler, the Lusso steams like a locomotive, and the wand's 3-hole tip allows one to make microfoam effortlessly. With the Sirena I had to struggle to achieve anything resembling latte art, whereas with the Lusso it happens on a daily basis -- if I were making cappuccini all day long like a pro barista, by now I'd be ready to enter contests.
Cleaning up is vital for the machine's functionality and the coffee's flavor. The mostly flat steel surfaces are a breeze to wipe up, and the group heads can be flushed and scrubbed clean in seconds. The really obvious flaw is in the drip tray, which needs more holes for better drainage. As it is, the countertop always needs wiping afterwards. Periodic boiler descaling is vital, and that's when draining and refilling becomes a real chore. Good reason not to use hard water: you won't need to descale as often! After descaling, one should grease the piston seals with Dow Corning 111 lubricant to avoid wearing out the seals prematurely.
Provided that one understands and accepts its old-fashioned quirks, the Lusso can be a satisfying "culinary instrument". I believe this term is more fitting than "appliance" (which to me suggests a lack of user involvement and a mundane purpose). Like a guitar or violin, this instrument depends on a skilled, passionate human to get the best out of it. Though it would be tempting to say that this instrument analogy justifies the high cost, in truth Ponte Vecchio's craftsmanship is not of the Stradivarius level, but rather "utilitarian" compared to, say, an Elektra. Though one can buy much more advanced & complex machines in the same price range, many former pump machine users who made the switch to levers are now very content. For them, the lever is the apotheosis; everything after it is excess. That, of course, is a matter of taste.
Useful Links:
http://www.home-barista.com/
http://www.coffeegeek.com/
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
waynio
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Location: San Francisco, CA
Reviews written: 119
Trusted by: 49 members
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If you meet the Buddha on the road, have him call my agent.
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