The Little Router with Big Dreams
Written: Aug 16 '04
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Best small router on the market.
Cons: Price... but worth it.
The Bottom Line: If you're looking for a small router, this is the only choice. If you're looking for a big router, get it's big brother.
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| Helga17's Full Review: Porter Cable 690LR 1 - 3/4 Hp Router |
GENERAL STUFF ABOUT PORTER CABLE ROUTERS
While working in various scene shops over the last few years, I have used many different routers, and most of them have been Porter Cable. Compared to other brands of routers, Porter Cable’s long life is worth the extra investment. In addition, if you’re working in a place where numerous routers are used, many pieces on different models of Porter Cable routers are interchangeable, so I could take the base from a plunge router version and swap it onto this one, and voila, I’m now using a plunge router. Also, when one does occasionally die, its parts are still useful.
I also really like the feel of Porter Cable routers in general. The casing is all metal, which feels solid and takes a lot of abuse. This solid structure helps me remain in complete control of the tool, which is important. I recently had the traumatic experience of using a cheap router with plastic handles, and it felt like the router wanted to go a different direction from the casing. I won't make that mistake again.
WHAT DOES A ROUTER DO?
A router is a tool that can be used to cut grooves in wood (for joining wood together or decoration), or shave edges of wood either straight or into pretty shapes. The shape you get depends on the bit you use. If you’ve ever had an end table with that curvy edge around the top, that’s a kind of edge you can get with a router.
THE 690 LR
The 690LR model is on the small end, which makes it a little more friendly to handle, but not as flexible for more heavy duty applications. Most of the time what I use this little guy for is flush cutting ¼” luaun to match a frame. When I’m routing deeper stuff, I tend to pick out one of the more powerful routers, because I have that option. I think this little one, with 1 3/4 would do great with heavier applications than I use it for, but it would be slower than a router with twice the horsepower.
POWER
This model uses AC current only. With other brands, I might not mention this fact, but more often than not, Porter Cable makes tools that can operate on a variety of electricity. Now, as with any power tool, if you are doing ANYTHING to it other than turning it on and using it, you should unplug it. This includes changing bits. Otherwise it might surprise you and eat your thumbs.
THE SWITCH
The switch on this router is the kind that rocks back and forth to turn it on and off. It is covered with vinyl, too keep the dust from clogging it. Very nice feature.
USING BITS
The collects on this router are designed for ¼” and ½” router bits. That means that the hole you stick your bit into only takes router bits that have ¼” and ½” shanks. The part that does the cutting is usually wider than the shank, so you’re looking at that not sharp part of the bit. You can buy an extra part to make this router adaptable to larger bits, but if I were going to use larger bits on a regular basis, I’d buy a larger router.
Now, I must say that I have never liked the way routers tighten down on bits. It requires two wrenches, that come with the router, twisting in opposite directions. I remember one router in my distant past that used a more user friendly system, but this system broke quite quickly. SO, I understand why this system is used. It’s the most sturdy way to get the job done. HOWEVER, I wish I didn’t always try to twist everything the wrong direction first. It feels like I never twist it the right way the first time, and then everything is too tight and I have to resort to drastic measures just to change the bit. On top of that, before twisting things all the wrong direction, it usually takes a while to locate the wrenches. Maybe I’m the only person in the world who can’t seem to get it straight, but I wish someone would invent an easier way to do this.
ATTACHING THE BASE
When changing bits, I usually remove the base, because it’s easier to get the wrenches in there. There are other reasons to remove the base too, but that’s my most common one. When it’s not attached to the base, you’ll see these little nubbies sticking out of the shiny part of the body, and they are in a spiral kind of shape. This is part of how it attaches to the base. These little nubbies act like threads on a soda cap, so you get the nubby on the edge lined up with the nubby hole in the base and then twist gently clockwise. This shouldn’t be hard to do, and if it is, then something is wrong and you should start over. (Be kind to your tools and they will be kind to you.) When it’s in all the way, you can close the clamp. This clamp is a bit of a weak spot in the design in my opinion. Some routers have a twisty knob to tighten this part, and I like that better. This is probably a little simpler though. I just like the added control of a twisty knob, and the clamp seems like it might break more easily than a knob. I could be wrong.
SETTING THE DEPTH
To set the depth, you unclamp the clamp, and twist like you were going to take it off the base until the bit is flush to the bottom. Then you reclamp it. Then you twist the “depth adjusting ring,” or part that kind of looks like a gear wrapped around the middle of the body of the router until the 0 is lined up with the line on the router. That gives you a starting point on how deep you are. Then you unclamp the clamp again and twist it back down until the gauge says you’re at the right depth.
Now that’s the way to do it if you want precision. Here’s how I do it usually. I unclamp the clamp and set the router so the bit is hanging over the edge of my wood. Then I look under the router and twist until it looks like the depth I want. Then clamp it down and test it to make sure my eyeball was right.
TEMPLATES
This router can be set to work with templates. I’ve never done that, so I can’t say much about it, other than I know it’s possible, but I’m pretty sure it’s a lot of hassle.
ACTUALLY USING THE ROUTER
Now that your bit is set, and you’re plugged in and ready to go, it’s time to use the router. This tool can seem very innocent, but don’t let it fool you. YOU CAN GET VERY INJURED ON THIS TOOL. Make sure your long hair is tied up and loose clothing isn’t in the way. Make sure you’re not going to run over the power cord. Make sure nothing is near the bit when you press the go button. You want to cut from left to right, because the fast rotation of the bit makes the router want to pull away from you the other way. This can be dangerous, because it makes it easier to lose control. As with any tool, listen to it while you’re using it. If it sounds sick, you’re probably pushing too hard. Let the tool do the work, and just be its guide.
THE DOWNSIDES
Some routers have a variable speed, so that when you’re using a really wide bit, you can adjust the speed to make it faster. This one does not have this feature. It’s intended use is with smaller bits. This is not the fastest, most powerful router on the market. It is, however, a sturdy little guy and performs its intended job with the upmost competence.
FINAL THOUGHTS
This is the only brand of router I would ever consider buying. This small version of the Porter Cable router is fantastic for smaller applications. Consider your needs, and if you are doing mostly small stuff, like edges, this is probably the router for you. If you are going to be doing a ton of big dovetail joints, and more intense cutting like that, you probably want to consider spending a bit more for a bigger Porter Cable router. The difference between an amateur and a true craftsman is often the quality of the tools they use. Be the true craftsman, and get a real router... Not that $40 piece of crap you're considering.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
Helga17
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Member: Laura Salvaggio
Location: Utica, NY
Reviews written: 73
Trusted by: 69 members
About Me:
I love Jesus, Bernie and theatre.
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