Preservation Hall, ....."a diamond in brown-paper-bag clothing"
Written: Apr 30 '04 (Updated May 06 '04)
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: This is the real Deal!
Cons: Hot, crowded, and more than likely you will not get a seat on a bench.
The Bottom Line: All the heat and wait and standing is worth it!!
|
|
|
| popsrocks's Full Review: Preservation Hall |
New Orleans is noted for the French Quarter with its mix of peoples, architecture, foods, and music. Over the years Rock Music, R&B, Zydeco, Cajun, Modern Jazz, Latin, African-Caribbean, Country Western and other forms of music have diluted what was once a town filled with Jazz. This isn't to say the other music forms aren't good, far from it, it's just that an American art form was being lost.
It was felt by some old timers that they wanted to keep Jazz going so a group of very talented musicians, dedicated to preserving Jazz, opened up Preservation Hall in 1961. Remember just a few short years before that Jazz was king in this town. I remember having a photo of the place that was in an old copy of National Geographic. When I did go to the Hall it looked exactly like it did in that photo that was over forty years old. I don't believe a thing was moved from the walls. If anyone knows which issue that was in please leave a comment. I somehow lost my copy and do want that picture for my travel scrap book.
The BUILDING
In the heart of the French Quarter a block and a half from Jackson Square and just a half a block from Bourbon Street is the Preservation Hall at 726 St Peters Street. This structure was built in 1750 as a private residence. Over the past 250 years the place has been a tavern, an Inn, an Art Gallery and was also a photography studio. This I found out from their web site.
http://www.preservationhall.com/hall.html
It has some great pictures you can check out.
The "concert hall" or the Main Hall as it is known, is not much more than a 15' x 30' area with some benches and a lot of standing and floor space.
New Orleans can get to be quite hot in the summer. That's when we were there. This place crowds people in and has no air-conditioning. There are a few fans that move the stale air around in the very cramped and crowded room.
Thankfully, you'll notice the sign that says No Smoking.
GETTING IN
Every night music is played. We have been there two different nights. We enjoyed it so much the first time that, when my son, a professional musician, and his wife joined us the next day in New Orleans, we insisted on going again. They too loved the overall experience.
It opens at about 8:00PM and closes at Midnight. The lines start to form outside the wrought iron gated entrance about an hour before the first set that actually begins at about 8:15 There are no pre-show sales of tickets or reservations. It is strictly a first come first served admission policy.
We waited about a half hour each time we went. As you go through the doors everyone pays $5.00. All ages are invited though I don't remember any children. It's my thought that the French Quarter just isn't a family destination. After paying you are invited into the Main Hall if for the first show. For the subsequent shows you pay and then move on into the hallway. This is the waiting area. Expect to be close and personal with the crowd. Doors to the main hall stay closed until the end of the set. People then walk out and then the new group is let in.
This is scramble time for some. If you are very quick and near the front of the line you may get a seat on a bench or a folding chair. These seats are very limited. If not able to get a seat do what we do. Walk right up to the front and sit on the floor front and center. We loved that positioning. We all felt totally immersed in the music and feel of the place. There is also a good amount of standing room space. Sorry, but I could not enjoy a show standing the full time.
The SHOW
After getting positioned in a place to see the show, it's time to look around. You may see papers posted on the walls that are yellowed, dried up and curling into themselves. The walls themselves show very little of what might have been paint many many years ago. Most of the walls are pealed down to the original plaster. The wood trim and floors are all bare without any finish. Old portraits are on the walls depicting some of the greats that played here over the years. A well worn black piano anchored the right corner of the playing area.
Once everyone is seated the musicians start walking in and taking their places sitting on pressed back antique wooden chairs that are on the same level as all in the room. The instruments were all in place.
These guys have many years etched into their faces. Most of the musicians are black though there was a guest artist who came in from Europe who happened to be white. They take their positions and without much fan-fair they start playing.
The music is incredible!! The sounds of the trumpet, clarinet, trombone, sax, piano, bass and drums and watching these guys play with such ease and professionalism is something everyone should try to experience at least once in their lives.
Ha, I just thought ....hold on....Yes! For Christmas I received a book as a gift. The name of it is 1,000 Places To See Before You Die. I just checked and the Preservation Hall is listed. Here's a short quote from the book.
"..... For traditional jazz, visit the dark and spartan Preservation Hall, beloved by purists, showcasing classic New Orleans Jazz.....the place is a diamond in brown-paper-bag clothing....."
I just changed the title of this review.
This short quote puts all the words I'm trying to join together into a nutshell. It's definitely an experience you should try.
One fellow did talk a bit with the crowd between musical pieces. There is a tin bowl up by the bass drum. That's where money is placed when requests are asked for. There happens to be a sign posted behind the band.
It reads:
Traditional Request $2.00
Others $5.00
Saints $10.00
We were reminded that the sign was put up "a long time ago" and that we should try a little harder in tipping for requests. Some money was put in during the show and some requests were played. I'm not familiar with classic Jazz tunes so I can't tell you what they played but I can tell you the sounds filled our ears, minds and hearts. It was amazing watching and listening to these old guys with so much talent in this no frills atmosphere.
SOME NAMES FOR THOSE IN the KNOW
The following is a recent listing of who you may see on a given night. This is also from their web site.
Mondays Reginald Koeller and The Preservation Hall Jazz Band
Tuesdays James Andrews and The Preservation Hall Jazz Band
Wednesdays John Brunious and The Preservation Hall Jazz Band
Thursdays Greg Stafford and The Preservation Hall Jazz Band
Fridays Leroy Jones and The Preservation Hall Jazz Band
Saturdays John Brunious and The Preservation Hall Jazz Band
Sundays Harold "Duke" Dejan's Olympia Brass Band
Schedule subject to change.
As it happened on one of the nights we were there, guests do come in and play with the band.
and the CURTAIN COMES DOWN
The music ended and a most of the musicians filed out to take their five to ten minute break between sets. We were reminded about the "tipping cup". Most people put in a couple-a-few bucks. I did see some bigger bills flutter down into the bowl. Remember the admission price was just five dollars. That is nothing for the show of talent and experience we saw. We all got up, made our way out, and the next fortunate group of people were ready to make their way into the Main Hall.
There are tapes and CDs now available for sale at the Preservation Hall. Why not bring home some memories?
Read about more in New Orleans
New Orleans
French Quarter
The Garden District A must visit when in Nawlin's.
Wyndham Bourbon Orleans Hotel In the French Quarter.
Cafe Du Monde Cafe Au Lait and Beignets!!
1,000 Places To See Before You Die A great book for planning and dreaming.
The French Quarter and Preservation Hall are two of the listings.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
|
|
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.