A Good, Basic Band Saw
Written: Dec 28 '07
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Price, Plenty of Blade options.
Cons: Tricky Blade Changes, Proper Set Up Needed.
The Bottom Line: If you're the typical weekend warrior, this machine should work fine for you. Plenty of options and accessories available. If industrial work is needed, get more horsepower.
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| aries98's Full Review: Ridgid 14" Band Saw BS1400 |
I bought the Rigid 14" Band Saw BS1400 at Home Depot. After pricing similar models, the Rigid was the best priced model to suit my application.
The unit is packed into one box, but it's a big box, you'll need a pickup to empty backseat to haul this thing home. The box is 20" wide, and 14" tall, and 44" long. I would also recommend having some help to load and unload.
Once I got home with the band saw, we opened the box, and set out all the pieces. All the hardware is labeled in a custom cardboard backed, and clear plastic fronted package. This also includes the two hex wrenches needed for assembly. I recommend an exacto knife or some other typed of sharp instrument to cut the perforations for each pocket of the parts package. Using the push outs like I did could result in the parts explosion that requires you to get your 10 year old kid crawling around looking for parts on the shop floor. Which also leads me to this point, have a clean shop floor so that you can find these small parts when, yes, when, you drop them! The manual for assembly is easy to read, and the parts package is clearly marked, as long as the parts stay put, so use care when opening the individual pockets.
Assembly went smoothly, and took about 1.5 hours, but I used my 3/8" air ratchet, and electric screw driver.
The BS1400 has a 3/4 h.p. motor that comes wired for 110 VAC, or you can wire it to 220 VAC to pull less amps. The saw comes with a 3/8" blade, but can handle up to 3/4".
If you want to do scroll cuts, you'll need the narrower blade. I personally bought mine to cut solid oak 4x4's, and I bought extra 1/2" blades when I bought the saw.
Being the typical male, I tried the saw out as soon as I finished with the assembly. I ripped two Red Oak 4x4's 6" long. My eager anticipation was met with disappointment. The band saw blade was everywhere, and the cut anything but straight. The band saw was noisy, and vibrated badly.
Since I own a sawmill, and a industrial resaw, you would think that I would have known better! I hadn't done any of my set up preparations. A novice mistake.
I didn't check my blade tracking on the band wheels, blade tension, thrust bearing settings, or guide placements. I went ahead and switched out the 3/8" band with the 1/2". This aggravated me, as the saw is not designed with a quick change system. I can change my 20 h.p., 13'2" resaw blade faster than I can change this little band saw, and I don't need ANY tools! You have to remove two screws that hold a plastic guard, and loosen another screw that allows a metal guard under the table to swivel so that you can remove and replace the blade. Still, it only took about 5 minutes to change the blade.
With the heavier band saw in place, I took my time and set the saw up right.
Tracking is easily adjusted with a knob on the top back of the unit. Slowly rotating the wheels by hand allows you to set the tracking quickly, and there is enough rubber lagging on the wheels not to interfere with the set of the teeth, so you don't have to worry about tracking the blade off the wheels like you do on industrial saws.
Adjustment of the thrust bearings is also easy. These should be adjusted to within 1/16" to the back of the band saw. Thrust bearing shouldn't turn when there is no load on the band. Only when pushing work into the band saw should the thrust bearings then turn and keep the band saw laterally in place.
Carbon guide blocks, both top and bottom, keep the band saw from moving side to side. Loosening the thumb screws allows easy placement of saw guides. Lightly pressing the blocks so that they just touch the sides of the band saw, and tightening the set screws is just right. Any pressure on the band saw blade will cause heat and excess load on the motor.
Tensioning of the band saw is very critical, but is the easiest thing on this model. The tension setting for each width of blade is clearly marked on the back of the top band wheel housing. Simply turn the adjustment knob to the indicated mark for the band saw that you are running.
The thumb screws tighten all guide block and thrust washer adjustments. As a precaution, I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to get a little extra torque, just to make sure they didn't vibrate loose.
Turning on the machine, I was surprised at how quiet it was. There was also very little vibration, unlike the first time I turned on the machine without setting it up properly.
I ripped two more Red Oak 4x4's, and the band saw cut perfectly! The saw had plenty of power, and I fed the stock into the saw rather quickly. I ripped the 4x4's corner to corner, making triangle pieces for chocks. This requires a full 6" cut, and creates a heavier saw load, so I was surprised that the machine didn't bog down.
The band saw has a table that tilts, with a degree indicator. Table is easily adjusted with hand knobs.
The machine also comes with a dust spout, made for a shop vac or other collection system. I can't say how the typical collection system would work, but a 25 h.p. Phelps Blower, well, it almost sucks the blade off the wheels! The sawdust isn't a problem for me, like I said, I own a sawmill, and I have it hooked to an industrial collection system.
www.grayssawmill.com
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
aries98
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Location: Durant, OK USA
Reviews written: 13
Trusted by: 1 member
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