The Rodin Museum: An Incredible Countryside Setting in the City !
Written: Jul 15 '02 (Updated Aug 18 '03)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: A small and very inviting museum in a beautiful Parisian Chateau
Cons: none
The Bottom Line: This is one of my favorite places in Paris for both the indoor and outdoor exhibits.
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| ifif1938's Full Review: Rodin Museum - Paris |
As soon as you enter the grounds of the Rodin Museum it feels as if you've left the city and entered a peaceful, countryside setting. This 18th century Chateau was restored by the French Government after Rodin's death in 1917, making it the perfect setting for Rodin's most memorable works.
I usually love to stroll through the gardens first, before entering the building, as it is such an idealic place. During my trip in April, of 1999, long and lush tulip displays were in bloom and they were everywhere! Huge beds of flowers were growing profusely wherever you looked and, around the exquisite fountains in the rear of the Chateau, were fabulous beds of flowers and blossoming trees glowing in the sunlight in a wild range of colors. When I was there the following year, in the fall, the gardens were a different scene altogether but beautiful none the less.
Reproductions of some of Rodin's most famous sculptures are in the gardens also...It's an incredible sight to see a copy of his most famous,"The Thinker", peering out from behind the trees surrounding it and the "Balzac" statue standing nearby with the golden rooftop of Invalides just behind the fence in the near distance. On one side of the Chateau is Rodin's first major public commission, the "Burghers of Calais", commemorating the heroism of the six citizens of Calais, who in 1347, offered themselves as a ransom to Edward III in return for ending his siege of their port. Nearby is Rodin's remarkable work, "The Gates of Hell", of which he said, in his own words, "where I lived for a whole year, in Dante's Inferno". He doesn't leave much of the terror of hell to your imagination. Small figures just jump out at you from every angle in every conceivable form of anguish you can imagine.... The original of this remarkable piece is in the Musee de Orsay.
When I finally make my way into the Chateau itself, I just don't know which way to look first. In every nook and cranny are Rodin's most beautiful and breathtaking marble statues. In one room, all the studies he did of hands, huge hands, that look as if they are reaching for the sky. Then, in another room, there it is, the famous "Kiss", of which one critic wrote, "the Passion is timeless", along with and all the other marble treasures... Various couples in poses that, at one time, were considered a bit raunchy, but standards change and today we view them as they are, sensuous, lovely and a little erotic. Well, maybe very erotic. Rodin was once labeled obscene by some of the critics of his day, but time changes everything and today he is considered the father of modern sculpture.
You can almost visualize many of his works emerging from marble into life as you study his sketches, the marble casts, and finally the finished pieces. As lifelike as marble can be. The only thing missing is the feel of real human flesh.
From one end of the Chateau to the other I wander, staring in awe at his work. On my last visit, for the first time, I went upstairs, and to my delight, discovered three paintings by Van Gogh, a Renoir, and a Monet I had never seen before. Even a painting by Munch that he did of Rodin's "Thinker". Included in this collection were some statues done by his student/mistress Camille Claudel, a great artist in her own right, demonstrating her own unique and moving style.
In one room I saw a group of people gathered around a television set so, of course, I had to check out what they were looking at... To my surprise, it was an old movie of Rodin filmed shortly before his death. He was working and demonstrating his art for the camera! You could actually see marble specks sprinkled on his clothing and in his long flowing beard. As I watched this film, I noticed a sparkle in his eye that hinted at the sensuality I see and feel when I look at his creations.
This is a very special place in Paris and even if you don't like Museums I would recommend a visit here. If you don't want to go inside, you can just visit the gardens if you wish for a small fee..They are a joy in themselves, with benches to sit on to contemplate all the beauty around you.
The Chateau is located in the 7 arr......77 rue de Varenne and can easily be combined with a visit to Invalides, almost next door..
For further information you can call: 01-44-18-61-10.
Closed Mondays..and some holidays.....
I'd also like to suggest for those that are interested or planning a visit, renting the video, "Camille Claudel" starring Gerard Depardieu as Rodin..A fascinating look into the lives of these great artists!
Happy and Safe Travels...
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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