Roquebrune, A Rocky Outpost on the French Riviera
Written: Oct 05 '02 (Updated Feb 07 '03)
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: Off the beaten track on the Riviera
Cons: I'm not there now
The Bottom Line: Charming village above the Coastal beauty of the French Riviera
|
|
|
| ifif1938's Full Review: Roquebrune |
People by the hundreds of thousands go to the Riviera for the sun and fun of it..The dazzling blue waters of the Mediterranean just call out to sun worshippers even if the terrain of many of the beach resorts is rocky at best..Many are interested in the movie star glitter or the topless beauties, some, not too beautiful.
But there is so much more to this spectacular region of France then the famous coastal towns used as a base for the international jets setters. Not that there is anything wrong with these beautiful towns by the sea, there is a lot of fun to be had in the heart of the activity and excitement and many of these towns exude charm and atmosphere as well as the thrill of just being on the Cote de Azur
High above, in the mountains that form the backdrop for all these beautiful and famous beach resorts are the not so well known “hillside perched villages".. So removed from the continuous activity of the Riviera it is amazing and offers another choice of setting to any and all travelers. Maybe that is why, tucked into or near these medieval time capsules are also some of the most beautiful and secluded hideaways of many of the rich and famous today and well as the desired sites artists for the past 100 years have chosen as their getaways, to paint, sculpt or write, to inspire their creative juices.
I’m going to do a little series of reviews about some of these villages, situated in what is also known as the Hinderland, these old medieval towns that have withstood the centuries of religious wars, the ravages of time and now, tourism.
Roquebrune, a charming mountain village with it's Chateau de Roquebrune. Built between the 10th century and the 13th century, the chateau is associated with the famous leader of that long ago time, Charlemagne. The village sits on the edge of a cliff where it seemingly seems to float among pristine and ancient beauty...The day we were there we could see and hear cars racing in the hills in preparation for the upcoming Grand Prix de Monte Carlo.
To savor the charm of this village Roquebrune, first stroll through the covered streets which are very steep and seem to be endless stairways. At the central square, the Place des Deux Freres a fragrant flower market, marks the entrance to “The Keep”..This well preserved and said to be the oldest feudal castle in France awaits. Upon our arrival it was closed for lunch, which seems to happen often in France, but, it gave us time to explore the outer walls that are huge, between 7 and 13 feet thick, containing every form of medieval defense system known for it’s time..There were cannons and lookout points built into the massive walls, where you can imagine the defenders looking out through these fortifications to see the marauding invaders. It's a funny thing, but now when I think of those days I laughingly see the comic strip, "Hagar the Horrible!"
For several centuries Chateau de Roquebrune belonged to the Grimaldi family of Monte Carlo fame, like most of the other property throughout the region..Inside we couldn't help but be impressed with the sheer work that must have gone into building such a fortress especially during the ancient time is was built..The massive walls themselves, inside as well as out, with rooms for the defense of the structure as well as what were the living quarters all seemingly made out of the same heavy rock that was prevalent wherever you looked...But primarily it was the views that impressed me the most for they were outstanding and, after a short while, listening to the cars practicing for the Grand Prix made us desire a little more action. So, after going back though the winding, narrow and extremely charming streets, looking for perfect gifts to bring back home from Roquebrune, we descended that hill to explore another village we had read and heard about, Ste’ Agnes
With over 50 enchanting little villages perched on these hilltops of wild gorges cut into the rich red soil, it’s hard to choose just a few that truly are outstanding...Each is a jewel of the Riviera with it’s own character and unique in it’s own way. A few offer alpine, almost Swiss style landscapes . Ste’ Agnes is one of those. At 2300 feet above sea level and just above the town of Menton, which was the base for our stay, it stands majestically as Europe’s highest coastal village.
Going to Ste’ Agnes is an adventure in itself with the narrowest of roads and, as the road starts to wind upwards, it really gets exciting as it creeps along sheer ravines with exquisite glimpses of the deep blue sea below. The excitement really starts when a truck or bus appears on the opposite side of the road....We literally had to drive our car at an angle to the side of the mountain to let one such truck pass us by. But then, suddenly, as you round a bend, Ste’ Agnes appears. Though it’s less than ¾ of a mile from Menton on the Mediterranean shore, it seems light years away when approaching it at this height.
Ste’ Agnes is a classified site and can still be considered undiscovered, with it’s streets uncluttered by tourists.. Towering high on the rocky landscape, this tiny village is well preserved with it’s many houses, some dating from the 15th century, tastefully restored, offering pleasant walks thorough the nooks and shady tiny streets.
Panoramic views from the cliff sweep the coastline from San Remo in Italy all the way to St. Tropez,. Looking north, you can see Alpine peaks, some snow covered, even in the summer.
This is a “village artisan” with plenty of small shops featuring fine artwork, handicrafts and jewelry, as well as souvenirs, also found along the coast, but at substantially lower prices.
It started to pour during our little walk so we ducked into a tiny café, for a quick lunch and ended up with a very reasonable 5 course Prix fixe menu, that would cost a fortune anywhere else..As we sat in front of a huge stone fireplace, with views in front of us of the valleys below, we couldn’t imagine anything, anywhere that could top this wonderful village experience.
For the adventurous or if you just want to work off a few of the calories you’ve been consuming, there is a 2 hour hike that links Ste’ Agnes with Menton..I have to admit we didn’t choose to partake in this “walk” but I have a few friends that did and told me it was an incredible experience, and the trails were very well marked
So, if you are planning a trip to the Riviera, do yourself a favor and look up, look to the hills for a taste of the Cote de Azur, off the beaten path, and a path you will not soon forget!
Happy And Safe Travels
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
|
|
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.