Ruth's Chris -- a costly disappointment
Written: Jun 04 '00 (Updated Feb 12 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Nice interior, good steak and dessert, excellent service
Cons: Too, too crowded, overpriced appetizers, mediocre side dishes
The Bottom Line: Overpriced + extremely crowded = no return visit
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| tanster's Full Review: Ruth's Chris Steakhouse |
Note: This review is part of a Ruth’s Chris Dine-Off. Our distinguished panel of carnivores includes: conradd, forkids, garypai, halfsweet, pogomom, and Travel and Restaurants Content Associate, randi_holladay -– please check out their reviews as well! You can also access all the reviews from the x-off page that ergopropterhoc has very graciously set up at http://www.geocities.com/jpn5/x-off/.
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I instantly knew that I was in for a sub-par dining experience from the minute I set foot inside Ruth’s Chris in San Francisco. Maybe it had something to do with the fact that I had to fight an exodus of diners as I squeezed my way through the front door. Or that, once we were inside, we had to jockey for position at the hostess stand, in the waiting area, and at the bar as we waited for our table.
Where did all these people come from? And on a Thursday night?
The quick story
• Delicious beef, but not worth the high price!
• An elegant interior, but marred by a lack of crowd control.
• Wonderful service.
The bad vibes continue
When we were finally seated, my stomach became tied in a knot, for we were taken to a table right on the perimeter of two large dining parties (16 people at each table), both in an advanced stage of inebriation. The conversation was loud, the laughter uproarious. We sat there, dejected.
Our server comes to our rescue
Within minutes, our server Brian arrived at our table. Before we could even voice our complaint, he observed, “It’s a bit noisy in here, isn’t it? Let me see if there’s a booth around the corner.” He disappeared momentarily, and then returned to lead us into the promised land: a quieter dining room. Ah, comfort at last. Brian earned his tip within those first ten minutes!
A look at the menu
Ruth’s Chris specializes in high-quality cuts of beef – “U.S.D.A. Prime and other premium cuts.” Never frozen, the steaks are cooked in a special 1800 degree oven, and served sizzling in butter. Besides beef, you can order veal chops, lamb chops, chicken, lobster tail ($24.95), and salmon ($24.95). There are no vegetarian main courses.
Starters
Besides an unremarkable loaf of French bread with butter, we started our meal with a shrimp remoulade ($9.95) and Caesar salad ($6.95).
A remoulade is a chilled, slightly spicy sauce made with mayonnaise, mustard, capers, chopped gherkin pickles, anchovies, and herbs. Ruth’s Chris rendition of this sauce was scrumptious – creamy and full of flavor. Likewise, the accompanying cocktail sauce (we requested both sauces) was excellent -- a tad heavy on the horseradish, just the way I like it. However, we could not believe we received only three prawns. Three prawns for $9.95?! You would do better ordering these at McCormick & Kuletos (see my 4/16 review) – half a dozen prawns for $13.25.
We had the exact opposite impression of the Caesar salad – a generous portion (enough for four people!), but somewhat lacking in flavor. The bizarre topping of perfectly square slices of Parmesan did little to enhance the salad.
A main event that met expectations
I must admit, Ruth’s Chris beef is truly delicious. I ordered the petit filet ($23.95), while Beau opted for the New York strip ($29.95).
My filet was a beauty – at least two inches thick, and looking pretty much exactly like the picture at the Ruth’s Chris web site (www.ruthschris.com). Lean, tender, and juicy – about as perfect as filet mignon can taste.
My Beau’s New York strip very nearly covered the entire plate. Except for a thin strip of fat along one side, the hefty portion was all beef. We agreed that, while it wasn’t as tender as my filet, it was tastier because of its delicious grilled flavor.
Regrettable side dishes
In the way of potato side dishes (mashed, baked, fried, etc.) we chose the au gratin potatoes ($4.95). From the vegetable section -- broccoli, creamed spinach, sautéed mushrooms -- we chose the asparagus with Hollandaise ($6.95).
I was expecting a classical gratin – paper-thin slices of potatoes baked in a gentle cream sauce and finished with broiled bread crumbs. Instead, we were served a very shallow 6” round baking dish of potato chunks the size of small scallops, napped in the requisite cream sauce, but draped in Cheddar cheese. Too heavy.
We were simply dumfounded by the asparagus – we’ve never seen such thick spears; they were at least ½” thick in diameter. Beau gave up on the tough spears and ate just the tips instead. The accompanying Hollandaise sauce suffered from a vinegary flavor – we left this untouched.
Dessert: at least the meal ended on a positive note
Sated but not satisfied, the opportunity to inspect the dessert tray was an unexpected treat. Brian took the effort of removing each dessert from the tray and placing it directly in front of us on our table for optimal examination.
Among the crème brulee, cheesecake, bread pudding, and the like, we finally chose the sin cake ($5.95) – a dense, flourless dark chocolate cake the consistency of a soft, moist ganache (the stuff that’s inside a truffle). Served with a scoop of Haagen Daaz vanilla ice cream, it was superb. Brian told us that all desserts are made fresh at the restaurant each morning.
A pricey wine list
The 17-page wine list comprised mainly red and mainly Californian selections, such as Mondavi and Beringer. Chile, France, and Italy were also represented. Prices were mainly in the $60-90 range. A small selection of wines by the glass were offered in the $4.95-9.50 range. We felt the restaurant mark-up on the wines was extraordinarily high – a 1997 Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir, for example, which retails for around $11, costs $51 here.
We chose to drink a Moet & Chandon White Star champagne ($80 here, retail $30) with our meal. A little dryer than I like, and a little sweeter than Beau likes.
Brian, our server, should be commended
In the almost two hours that we were there, our server Brian provided exemplary service. Attentive and ever-cheerful, he served our courses and refilled our champagne flutes with admirable timing.
An elegant décor that was sadly upstaged by the atmosphere
The interior of Ruth’s Chris was elegant and romantic – dark wood paneling, ornate carpets, stained glass, dim candlelight, cozy leather booths. Too bad the atmosphere was more akin to a convention hall – crowded, raucous, and impersonal. If only the larger dining groups could somehow be segregated to their own area, it would make for a much more tranquil and intimate atmosphere for the rest of us.
The final tab
Our bill came out to $182 for one appetizer, one salad, two orders of beef, two side dishes, and one dessert. Holy cow!
All in all
We won’t be going back to Ruth’s Chris again. As Beau said, “We could have gone to Antica (see my 2/19/00 review) for almost half the cost and gotten a much better meal!” For the cost, the value just isn’t there. If you must go to Ruth’s Chris, skip the appetizers, focus on the beef, avoid the asparagus, and share a dessert.
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Ruth’s Chris Steak House
1601 Van Ness Ave.
San Francisco, CA
415-673-0557
Dinner nightly
Street parking or valet ($8)
Reservations: we walked right in without a reservation on a Thursday night. For weekend dining, I would advise making reservations a few days in advance.
Recommended:
No
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Epinions.com ID:
tanster
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 - Top 500 |
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Location: Palo Alto, CA
Reviews written: 111
Trusted by: 331 members
About Me:
Happily reviewing cool gadgets and SF Bay Area restaurants since 1999. Pass the gravy, please.
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