The people of Franconia, Germany, smoke malts... but not in the way you might be thinking.

I was first introduced to the concept of smoke beers while watching an old video tape episode of The Beer Hunter (featuring Michael Jackson). In 1989, The Discovery Channel produced a three hour mini-series that featured Michael Jackson talking about and sampling the best beers from California, Britain, Holland, Belgium, Bohemia (Czech Republic) and Germany. While on location in Bamburg, Germany, Jackson spoke about the "original Schlenkerla Smoke Beer" -- Ächt Schlenkerla Rauchbier.

The first Ächt -- or Aecht -- Schlenkerla beer I tried was a smoked Märzen-style beer from the Brauerei Heller Trum, located in Bamberg, Germany. Bamberg is a small city -- under 75,000 population -- but it has no less than nine breweries. There is a Gasthaus is town, the Schlenkerla Tavern, which is the public's portal for beers by the Brauerei Heller Trum.

When I took my first sip, I thought it tasted like charcoal and salted, roasted pork. It definitely is an acquired taste. It is not for everyone, but, from my personal experience, this unusual beer style is a kind that "grows on you" the more you try it.

I later went on to try other smoked beers from the Brauerei Heller Trum, the latest being:

Ächt Schlenkerla Rauchbier Urbock
Original Schlenkerla Smoke Beer - Urbock (strong, malty style of beer; literally means "Old Goat")

Statistics:  6.6% alcohol by volume / Plato: 17.5 / IBU: 40

Production:  Produced by smoking malts over beechwood fires. This particular beer is only brewed once a year, and this is for the "Urbock" celebration at the Schlenkerla Tavern, the brewery's main outlet for its smoked beers. In The Beer Hunter series, Michael Jackson is seen dining and drinking at this establishment. This beer is produced for the post-Oktoberfest "strong beer" season, which is now in full swing: October through December. Matured in a Keller (deep rock cellar) and aged for a week longer than the Märzen version. The traditional beer that is served at the tavern is conditioned in oakwood casks.

Appearance:  Dark chestnut color with tan colored head of foam. A deeper color than the Märzen version (amber brown). Moderate levels of carbonation. Head dissipates fairly quickly.

Aroma:  Extremely aromatic, and that's too say: extremely smoky. Smells like smoked pork or beef jerky, with charcoal like tones. Not entirely disagreeable, but will surprise people who try this beer for the first time.

Flavor:  Urbock beers are generally strong, slightly creamy and oaky, with big hop and malt flavors. Here, the slightly sweet signature profile of a typical bock beer strives to rise above the smoke and charcoal flavor. There is kind of a struggle here that is most unusual. This is a great tasting beer once you get used to it, but it is very smoky. Big malt body. Filling -- 20% higher in alcohol content when compared to the classic Märzen version. Long complex finish and bitter -- an IBU of 40 puts this beer in the bitterness range of India Pale Ales.

Price and Availability:  Purchased at a German specialty grocer at Alpine Village, Torrance, California for $3.99 per 500ml bottle (16.9 fl. oz.). Imported by B. United International of Chappaqua, New York. Somewhat hard to find and seasonal. The time to buy is right now.

Recommendations:  Store in cool, dark conditions. This is an unpasteurized, natural beer that should be consumed fresh.

Verdict:  3¾ stars.

          Appearance: 4/5
          Aroma: 20/25
          Flavor: 34/40
          Body: 8/10
          Overall Quality: 17/20
          ------------------------------
          My Score: 83 -- 3¾ stars.


The import label regularly advertises a website:

http://www.smokebeer.com/
which has finally (after months of failed connection attempts) has been re-scripted to redirect inquiries to:

http://www.schlenkerla.de/indexe.htm

Check it out!


Dem Bayerischen Reinheitsgebot entsprechend grebrautes.
Product of Germany. Brewed according to the Bavarian Beer Purity Law of 1516.


Recommended: Yes