SeaClear System II Is Recommended!
Written: Aug 06 '02 (Updated Oct 09 '08)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Acrylic tank w/ a built-in filtration unit that is quiet and w/ no outside plumbing!
Cons: Acrylic tanks scratches easier than glass tanks.
The Bottom Line: I recommend SeaClear's System II for any freshwater or saltwater/reef enthusiast who's looking for a simple, ready-to-run aquarium.
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| mcbaes72's Full Review: SeaClear Acrylic Aquarium |
PRODUCT:
SeaClear is a company that manufactures quality acrylic aquariums. The shapes vary from standard rectangular tanks to flat-back hexagon tanks to even cylinder-shaped tanks. The System II is a filtration unit built into the back of the aquarium and it’s only available in standard rectangular and flat-back hexagon. They range in size from 26 gal. to 125 gal. tanks and it offers either a blue or black background. System II features include: 4-way adjustable spillway plate and skimmer gate (water from the main display flows through here while keeping the fish out), impact resistant light hood with fluorescent fixture installed (light bulb sold separately), warp resistant ABS lids, bioaire drip tray w/ bio-balls (water drips through here onto bio-balls to encourage nitrifying bacteria growth), chemical media tray (for media such as carbon), quick change pre-filter (removes large waste particles), 300 - 400 gph water pump, heater chamber & protein skimmer chamber (SeaClear System II skimmer is optional).
BENEFITS:
Acrylic is superior to glass because it’s virtually unbreakable and acrylic is practically fused together (glass tank manufacturer’s warranties range from 1 to 6 yrs. only). After that expires, you’re on your own if your glass tank cracks or leaks. I’ve read too many stories of glass tanks spilling entire contents of water, fish, etc. all over their carpet or hardwood floors. Acrylic insulates heat better than glass as well. The only downside to acrylic tanks is that it tends to scratch more easily than glass. SeaClear is aware of this and they offer a scratch removal kit (@ $10). I recommend it.
The System II’s built-in filtration unit is impressively quiet. Once the water filters through the spillway plate/skimmer gate, it flows through the pre-filter where large waste particles are collected, flows through the protein skimmer chamber (System II protein skimmer sold separately, @ $40, and is optional), then some water flows into the drip tray where the bio-balls encourage beneficial (nitrifying) bacteria to grow while other water flows past the chemical media tray to assist in cleaning/clearing the water. And finally, water flows through the water pump and turbulence manifold which provides excellent water & air circulation and then, back into the main display tank. No extra powerheads are needed which can cost more in equipment, increase your energy bill and clutter your main display tank. Also, there is no outside plumbing w/ hoses, wet/dry sumps, etc. needed. Everything is built into the back of the tank which hides it nicely and makes setup and maintenance a breeze to do. A submersible heater is highly recommended vs. hang-on heaters and a submersible heater can be placed almost anywhere in the built-in filtration unit. Also, buy acrylic-safe cleaning products such as cleaning magnets or algae scrapers.
SeaClear System II tanks are not readily available everywhere. It may be special ordered at your local fish store (LFS) or purchased online. I purchased my SeaClear tank from Petsmart.com. Expect to pay @ $349 for a flat-back 26 gal. tank or as high as @ $999 for the 125 gal. show tank (not including canopy and stand). Those prices came from Aquariumpw.com.
OPTIONAL MODIFICATION:
FYI, for my 50 gal. System II, I modified the tank slightly for a "natural" saltwater/reef tank setup. I removed the drip tray, bio-balls and chemical media tray. Bio-balls surface area allows nitrifying/beneficial bacteria to grow; in turn, they break down deadly ammonia to nitrite to nitrate, but if you have sufficient live rock, the bio-balls can be removed. Instead, I added macroalgae (chaeto) to the area where the bio-balls were located to be the main "natural" filtration and I added a normal output (NO) daylight bulb over it. I depend solely on "natural" filtration because macroalgae (chaeto) doesn’t "convert" ammonia to a less toxic form, rather it "absorbs" ammonia, nitrite, phosphates, silicates, etc. Then, when it overgrows, you harvest a portion out an throw it away. Also, I don’t use a protein skimmer and I don't even perform saltwater changes. I only use RO (reverse-osmosis) water to top off evaporated water and I add supplements daily or weekly as needed. For those that insist on using tap water, use Seachem Prime. Also, if the water gets discolored (and it probably will), carbon media can be used to clear it up. If nuisance algae (i.e. red/green slime, etc.) appears, use some type of phosphate media. I DO NOT recommend this method of reef-keeping for the beginner. But my optional modification or even using a refugium set-up (a 2nd smaller tank next to the main display) is a more "natural" approach that’s worth investigating.
As of August 2008, the tank was running for about six years w/ no skimmer and no sw changes. To prove that it worked, I have a False Perc that's about 8 yrs old! It started off in a 30 gal. tank to a 50 gal. skimmerless tank to my new 125 gal. tank. The 50 gal. System II is now w/ my friend George. It's set up just like mine was (macro/chaeto in the built-in sump) except he did add an old SeaClone HOB (hang-on back) skimmer to it. Also, he will be performing sw changes, but won't be adding any supplements, except Seachem Prime to treat tap water.
I'd like to share this email I sent to a hobbyist who wanted more info re: my "Optional Modification". It should also answer the question an epinions member had made in the "Comments" area...
"It wasn't difficult to maintain the water level in the built-in sump/refugium on the System II. I did two things: 1) top off RO water every night during feeding time & 2) controlled water level entering the built-in sump by raising or lowering the plastic grill area (not sure on the name) on the left side. Currently, my friend George has it set up w/ the grill down almost at its lowest point, so a lot of tank water goes into the back and it's filled nearly to the top (nearly same height as water in main display). Is that clear? I hope so.
No, I haven't physically changed anything. When cleaning and transporting the tank to my friend's house, I noticed the four sections of the built-in sump. First section allows water into the back sump (skimmer pump is placed here, if a skimmer is used), then sw goes down and up into a second section (water from HOB skimmer re-enters here, if a skimmer is used). Then, when the height of the water reaches the top, it overflows into a third section (largest area) where the macroalgae (chaeto) is kept and my friend has a PC retrofit w/ daylight bulbs in the back row (provides light for both macro in sump as well as light for main display). Finally, the water in the third section goes down and up into the fourth and final section where the tank's main pump is located and it feeds the cleaned water back into the main display via small holes in the right side of the tank. Of course, when my tank was running for six years, there was no skimmer. Instead, I had macro (chaeto) in sections one, three and four as well as macro in the main display tank. It looked like one giant refugium, not a show tank, but it worked.
Lastly, don't add any live rock (LR) or live sand (LS) in the built-in sump on the System II. Water needs to flow through each section and debris + LS will clog those areas. I highly recommend cleaning the built-in sump once or twice a year. I only had LR & LS in the main display."
CONCLUSION:
SeaClear’s System II is a quality product that, although is pricey initially, is more convenient, may be as efficient and is more quiet than a tank w/ outside plumbing and a wet/dry sump underneath the stand. Actually, when you add all the separate equipment necessary for a setup w/ outside plumbing, the price may be cheaper for the System II w/ the built-in filtration. The benefit w/ outside plumbing is that you can choose your equipment brand, size pump, size sump, etc. (which isn't bad at all). But it may be noisier (unless you have the luxury of hiding outside plumbing behind a wall or in a basement) and most likely more expensive, too.
UPDATE:
For those wondering how long the pump will last before replacement, mine ran 24 hours a day for 3 years before I needed to order a new one. And access to the built-in sump in the back to replace the pump wasn't difficult at all. But you will have to get your hands wet though. :)
Anyway, I hope my review was helpful to you.
-Michael.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
mcbaes72
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Member: Michael Baes
Location: Solano County, CA
Reviews written: 5
Trusted by: 6 members
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