Pros: Excellent grip on pipe, Easy to implement, Reusable, Cost effective.
Cons: Removing connector can take a minute. But it?s much quicker than removing a solder joint.
What is it?
It is simply used to connect two pieces of copper pipe (or PVC, or PEX) together for a tight water/air/gas leak proof seal.
NEW HOMEOWNER DILEMMA
I purchased my home about 18 months ago. It was/is a fixer upper. My knowledge of home repairs was very minimal upon moving in. My project list was large. I refuse to pay a professional for anything I can handle myself, even if some learning is involved.
My house previously had water pumped from a well and a septic tank. City water was provided shortly before I moved in and city sewer was mandated by my town, so I made it a condition of my purchase contract. Sewer had to be connected by original homeowner prior to my settlement date.
I moved in to my new place with city water and city sewer, but I had an old water conditioner still connected to the water line and sewer line in the basement. Previous owner did not remove it. They didnt have to since internal plumbing was not affected by water and sewer upgrade.
I was looking at this nasty water conditioner hooked to my line (WAG valve was in off position, so it was not being used) and thinking this thing takes up a lot of space in my utility room. It has old slimy water sitting in it, and its still connected to the sewer line. The water conditioner must go!
MY OPTIONS FOR REMOVAL OF WATER CONDITIONER
I thought I had two options to complete this project:
1) Hire a professional plumber.
2) Turn the water line off, cut the copper pipe, sand burrs, clean old pipe, use flux, solder, and a propane torch to connect a coupling after removing tank.
I knew I could do this project on my own, since I have soldered before. Soldering can be tricky even for experienced people. Object must be heated correctly and all soldered surfaces must be cleaned thoroughly. Too much solder looks unprofessional and not enough will cause a leak or resistance in the case of electronics. Plus a solder gun or propane torch is dangerous if mishandled.
Prior to starting the project, I came across compression fittings. When I made the comparisons Sharkbite was the best for ease of use, flexibility of application, and overall strength of compression.
SHARKBITE IN ACTION
After a salesman at my local hardware store showed me the Sharkbite in action, I was convinced! All he did was connect the fitting to a loose piece of copper pipe and remove it all in a matter of seconds. He also showed me that it was impossible to manually pull the Sharkbite off the pipe once in place. There is only one way to remove the fitting from the pipe (see CONNECTION / REMOVAL section below).
My water line is 3/4 inch in width.
My water conditioner removal project needs were:
A) Two 3/4 inch Sharkbite Straight Couplings
B) I needed 1 foot of copper pipe.
C) A pipe cutter or hacksaw. Pipe cutters make a cleaner cut with many less burrs!
D) Sandpaper to remove burrs from cut pipe. I used 200 grit fine sandpaper.
I turned off the water main. The water conditioner was located 2 feet away from the water meter/water main valve. If I made any mistakes, and turned the water back on, I would have no kitchen, bathroom, or external faucets available and a puddle in my basement.
Did I mention I never did any sort of plumbing work prior to this project? Well, now I have.
Project Steps (Completion time for me: 1 hour)
A) With the water main off. I cut the copper pipe above and below the water conditioner soldered elbow couplings.
B) I moved the conditioner away from the area.
C) Cleaned up the dripped water. I towel dried the pipes so I could sand away all burrs from the inside and outside of cut pipes.
D) Measured the size of new pipe needed. Cut the new pipe down to size.
E) Installed one Sharkbite fitting on the new pipe. Put the new pipe up to the old pipe, installed the opposite end of Sharkbite to the old pipe. Now one side was completed.
F) All I had to do was get the second Sharkbite fitting and connect it to the other end of the new pipe and other end of the old pipe.
G) Turned water main back on. Checked all fittings for any leaks. Found zero leaks. Project completed!
CONNECTION / REMOVAL
Mark pipe 1 inch down from end where Sharkbite connection will be placed on. Place Sharkbite on pipe end. Push downward with a twisting action (note: I found twisting clockwise or counterclockwise works). Connection will be completed once it reaches the 1 mark line you placed on the pipe. A locking will occur and should be felt during the twisting action.
Removing the fitting is done by using a disconnecting clip made by Sharkbite (approx $2). Place the clip on the pipe, push it up against the release collar on the compression fitting and pull the pipe with a twisting action (again clockwise or counterclockwise will work). Needle nose pliers may also be used to disconnect fitting, but it's not as easy as using the disconnecting clip.
See my review of the Sharkbite Disconnect Clip for more information.
Per Cash Acme the makers of Sharkbite Push Through Compression Fittings:
Instant push-fit connection for increased ease-of-use
No soldering, clamps, unions, or glue required.
Fittings certified to 200 PSI and 200?F (93?C):
Proven durability and quality.
Fits copper tubing, and CTS CPVC and PEX:
Connects all three types in any combination.
Integral tube liner for PEX installations:
Integrated design means no loose components, ensures secure, reliable connection.
Design certified and agency listed:
Inspector friendly, peace of mind!
Compact, robust DZR brass body:
Foundation of a strong, corrosion resistant, durable fitting.
Design certified to ANSI/NSF-61 and ASSE 1061 product standard for use in potable
water and hydronic heating water distribution:
Quality engineered and manufactured.
Approved to be used underground and behind walls without access panels.
Designed for hydronic heating as well as potable water distribution.
The SharkBite Push-Fittings have been design certified and listed to ASSE 1061/NSF 61.
The SharkBite Push-Fittings are listed by IAPMO and are certified for potable and hydronic
heating water distribution (note: Glycol mixture for hydronics is not to exceed 50% concentration).
The SharkBite Push-Fittings have been certified for underground applications and as a
manufactured joint without access panels and they meet UPC, IPC and cUPC requirements.
I completed my project and installed two sharkbite compression fittings about 10 months ago and have no leaks or any problems since.
Guarantee: SharkBite fittings are guaranteed against faulty materials and manufacture for 25 years.
Video by Me on Youtube
I posted a video on YouTube which shows the Sharkbite Compression Fitting & Disconnect Clip in action.
Direct link to Video (please copy & paste in browser):
My Profile page on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/NoneDude4Epinions
My username: NoneDude4Epinions
I plan on adding more product videos in the future, please feel free to subscribe to my channel, I welcome anyone to do so. Videos are edited with simplicity; I do not have the time to spend making them look very professional.
--Other Reviews by me with videos--
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Harbor Freight Tools
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Haynes Honda Accord Manual
Blitz Rhino Ramps
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SharkBite Disconnect Clip
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