Delectations at Midtown; a dinner for a hero.
Written: Sep 28 '01 (Updated Sep 29 '01)
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Pros: Food fit for a hero.
Cons: A little too simple on the decor.
The Bottom Line: Okay, so it wasn't as "romantic" as some other Manhattan dining establishments. But oh my, what a meal!
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| thom413's Full Review: Smith & Wollensky |
The sloppily romantic heart of New York City still thrums strongly along, defying tragedy. Mayor Giuliani urges a "return to normalcy"like a holy talisman against evil. I agree. It would be a dishonor to the injured, dead and missing to be cowed by cowardice. So I ventured out for a romantic dinner last night with my new partner, with the Mayor's blessing.
Choosing the restaurant was not easy. The cuisine was no problem. Jack is adventurous enough to try almost any kind of food, from any country of origin. He can consume tremendous amounts of fine (read: unhealthy) food and never gain weight, the inconsiderate bum. No, the problem was finding a suitable place that would provide a romantic, distracting, vacation-like experience.
Why?
Well, Jack is a Sergeant with the New York City Police Department who has spent the last two weeks working 12 hour shifts, seeing things no one should ever have to see, and keeping the city a safe place for people like me - and you, no matter where you are from - to live and work. Watching him do his job with an iron spine and a total disregard for the personal toll it took has been an inspiration to me. If anyone deserved or needed a decent dinner out in a relaxed setting, he did.
I chose Smith and Wollensky, a popular steak house at midtown, not far from his precinct. I had eaten here before, and while it isn't overwhelmingly atmospheric, it is nice in a "clubby" sort of way. I knew that we could speak freely and privately, the food would be good, and that it is a soothing place to decompress after a stress-filled week or two. Weeknights are generally less crowded, and this was no exception.
Atmosphere, 7 out of 10. The decor is minimalist: wall sconces cast dim light over dark paneled walls, and artwork is few and far between. Wide plank floors give testimony to the age of the building, and the dining rooms are comfortable but not luxurious. "What do you think?" I asked as soon as we were seated. His eyes narrowed, scanning the room for exit and entry points, evaluating the likelihood of high-end burglars replacing the brass wall sconces with fakes, and checking the paneling for false doors. After a minute, he slid back in his seat. "I like it. The paneling is nice. I think I could do that with my table saw."
"Great, 'Norm' ." I said. (He's a hopeless New Yankee Workshop fan.)
"Well, it's got a nice view." The room was windowless, and his chair was facing me and a panel with a hunting print. I hope he wasn't referring to the artwork.
Service, 9 out of 10. Everyone, from the host who waved off our 15 minute lateness, to our ruddy-faced waiter, who presented our meals with beaming pride, was without exception, wonderful. The missing point comes from the kitchen, who kept us waiting just a bit too long between the appetizer and the main course.
We were late because Jack had made a "collar" (arrest) late in his shift and had a ton of paperwork to fill out. I was content to merely apologize to the host for being late, but Jack proceeded to tell the host all about it. I thought the host was merely listening with polite interest as he brought us to our table, but he was really paying attention. When the waiter brought our drink order, he graciously announced that they were "compliments of the management". How nice and thoughtful!
Food, 9 out of 10. Wow! Everything was very fresh and delicious. The bread was a deceptively simple pile of hot, addictive rolls that we consumed in seconds flat. Our waiter refilled the basket, but it always seemed empty to me. Hmm. For real food, we started with oysters on the half shell. Fresh, plump, tender and flavorful, they arrived on a bed of crushed ice, with some zesty cocktail sauce and fragrant lemon wedges. They were a wonderful complement to my Martini and Jack's scotch and soda. Note that deadening your tastebuds with alcohol before dinner is generally a BAD idea. I made an exception this time, and the flavors blended well. However, I drank two glasses of water to kind of clean things out before the main course arrived. I did not consider ordering some lemon sorbet as a palate cleanser before the main course, but in hindsight, it would have been a good idea, and I'm sure that the staff would have accommodated us. The wine list is extensive, and in my opinion, a bit overpriced. I knew what some of the wines cost retail, and they were marked up more than the standard 100%. Our waiter recommended the house cabernet by the glass, and it was a wise and budget-conscious choice.
The Caesar Salad,which we split between us, was a tasty, crisp, cool treat.Best of all, it was anchovy free. The waiter had the kitchen do the division, and when he brought it out, the mound of crispy greens on each plate was enormous! Neither one of us could finish, but I sure wish I had been able to.
For dinner, I ordered the filet mignon, Jack, the lamb chops. Ironically, we each ordered each other's favorites, which meant that some sharing was in order, and I now get to review both for you! Ahh, the steak. Absolutely perfect. Firm, cooked, but still pink all through. A dash of salt and two of pepper and it was out of control Esteak sauce would have been gilding the lily. I seriously doubt this meat had ever come near a freezer. It was rivaled only by the lamb - tender chops redolent of rosemary and a hint of garlic were arranged on the plate with an artsy carelessness. I could have eaten several more of these with no problem. I should point out that these meats made at home, even by a skilled cook, would not have been as good as Smith and Wollensky's. There is an indefinable something - the temperature of the grill, the seasonings, the quality of the meat. I don't know what it is, but it makes the place worth the trip and the expense.
Asparagus was crisp, fresh, and served with hollandaise that was a lemon-scented treat. The mashed potatoes were creamy and delicious, and with a dab of the steak sauce, transcended mere comfort food. Of course the portions were more than ample. These were good choices, as they did not compete with the meat, they just enhanced it.
By the time the creme brulee was cracked and the delicious strong coffee poured, Jack was like a new man, delighting in senses he had intentionally shut down for two weeks. He was telling me about people he'd met, colleagues who'd shone, what he'd do next, and his smile was like watching the sun come up.
(He read that last sentence over my shoulder, so I clarified: "Yeah, because it happens once a day -if you're lucky." That got an actual laugh out of him!)
Cost, no rating. I can't really put a price or a quantification on a meal that hit my new partner's reset button so effectively. It was expensive - $148 for two, not including tip. It was worth every penny, in my book. As was the bone-crunching hug I got on the deserted sidewalk outside the restaurant. Does anyone know a good orthopedist?
God bless my partner, all New Yorkers, Washingtonians, Americans, our families, friends and allies. I offer you all a toast: "To life."
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: No
Vegetarian Friendly: No
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Go on a weeknight, beat the crowds.
Best Suited For: Romantic Evening
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Epinions.com ID:
thom413
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Member: Thomas Tronolone
Location: Long Beach, New York
Reviews written: 121
Trusted by: 176 members
About Me:
"Those friends thou hast ... grapple them to thy soul with hoops of steel." Hamlet
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