Very few tools that were around when I was a youngster have remained unchanged over the years. I suppose that is true of hammers too. They are now available in a wide range of styles, sizes and with various types of man made and metal handles. However, the very first Stanley hammer that I bought in England over 40 years ago was almost identical to this one. It is still the same plain, well-made, no-frills hammer that I have always used.

Stanley makes four wood handled curved claw hammers, which basically differ only in size and weight. They are:
* 51-613 - 7 oz. Curved Claw Wood Handle Nail Hammer
* 51-713 - 13 oz. Curved Claw Wood Handle Nail Hammer
* 51-616 - 16 oz. Curved Claw Wood Handle Nail Hammer
* 51-620 - 20 oz. Curved Claw Wood Handle Nail Hammer

The 51-613 - 7 oz. Curved Claw Wood Handle Nail Hammer has its own section on Epinions, I will cover the other three hammers in this review.

These three hammers have:
* Forged high-carbon steel head
* Fully heat-treated and polished bell face
* Hickory handle

They are about 13/13-1/4 inches long, and have a head about 5 inches from face to claw. The only noticeable difference between them is the extra weight --more about that later. They are all covered by Stanley's excellent Limited Lifetime warrantee, which will replace the tool if it fails for any defect in workmanship. However, I should not that breaking the wooden handle through heavy or incorrect use is NOT covered.

This hammer feels good and hammerish in your hand and it looks like a hammer should. It isn't one of those sissy-looking designer hammers. The head is solid forged steel. It is black except for the hammer face which is shiny and polished. The contoured haft goes through the hammer head in the normal way, and is securely fastened with two wedges/pegs driven into the top of the haft.

These hammers are intended for general woodworking driving common and finishing nails. They should NOT be used for driving masonry nails, working with cold chisels, or any other use that involves hitting masonry or metal. The curved claw is excellent for pulling bent and otherwise redundant nails. In that regard, it is easier to use than a rip claw hammer, which is better suited for prying apart studs during framing. The solid hickory wood handle on these hammers does a decent job of shock absorption but can become tiring after extended use.

As regular readers may remember, an eyesight problem limits my depth perception, so I am not very good at nailing. Consequently, I get far more use from the claw than most woodworkers of my ability. The same problem also means that I will use a screw gun or an automatic nailer whenever I can. That makes my use of hammers minimal, and primarily for deconstruction. For me, a fancy hammer would be a total waste. I just need something cheap and reliable. These hammers are perfect.

Since I do remember to use the right hammer for the job, and I avoid nailing when I can, these hammers are virtually indestructible. I have yet to loosen a head or break a shaft. However, my step dad adopted my first hammer when I came to the States. Since then I have had one stolen, one borrowed (which is like stolen only more polite), and I left one on a job site. Sadly, none of these incidents were covered by the warranty. Despite my reliance on Sears Craftsman hand tools for most of my needs, I have always bought Stanley hammers. That is probably because my first one was a Stanley (Craftsman was not available in the UK) and I am very much a creature of habit... er... I mean a traditionalist. :)

Contrary to popular opinion, heavy hammers are not for stronger people. Their real use is to drive bigger, longer nails. Even a 4-foot-something, 90-pound girl can swing a heavy 28 oz. framing hammer, with proper technique and a bit of practice. It is all about accuracy and control. The trick is to let the hammer do the work.

I don’t have much use for the 13 oz. hammer. It is too light for nails over 6d, and not robust enough for heavy duty nail pulling. I keep one in my electrical toolbox for the odd bit of hammering that rewiring entails, mostly driving staples, fastening junction boxes, and a bit of light prying. I get most use out of the 16 oz. hammer but it lacks the weight to drive anything larger that an 8d common nail with any frequency. On the rare occasions I have to drive 12d+ nails, the 20 oz. hammer. saves a lot of extra swings. If I did this more often, I would probably invest in an even heavier hammer.

In many ways, these hammers are the direct descendents of the hammers that built America, and most everywhere else for that matter. I would recommend the 16 oz. curved claw hammer to any homeowner as part of their basic toolkit. It is inexpensive, reliable, and will handle most of your nailing and nail-pulling needs. For about $7, it's hard to go wrong. As you become a more experienced user and develop more sophisticated needs, you can move into the more esoteric hammers.

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Tips:

Having a curved claw hammer as your lighter hammer and a rip claw or framing hammer as your heavier hammer makes a very versatile combination.

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8d - Eight Penny Nails:

The use of d meaning penny is a direct reference to what nails once cost to buy, and dates back to Roman times.

Nail Size/Length (in inches)

4d - 1-1/2
6d - 2
8d - 2-1/2
10d - 3
12d - 3-1/4
16d - 3-1/2
20d - 4
30d - 4-1/2

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Safety Tips:

* Always remember to wear safety glasses when using a hammer.

* For extended periods of hammering, consider wearing hearing protection.

* Work gloves reduce wear and tear on your hands, and can help you avoid splinters.

* When working with old wood and rusty nails, always make sure that your Tetanus shots are up to date.

* Never use a curved claw or rip claw hammer on masonry, steel or other metals. The hardened head can crack and shatter.

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Recommended: Yes