The Yamazaki: it's Japanese for "Scotch"
Written: Mar 05 '08
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Product Rating:
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Pros: smooth and light
Cons: Doesn't have the smoky appeal of Islay single malts
The Bottom Line: The Japanese have been making single malt whisky for 80 years, but it took Bill Murray to let Americans know The Yamazaki was out there.
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| scmrak's Full Review: Suntory Japanese Whiskey Yamazaki Malt 12 Yr. 86 |
Like many others in the world of food and drink, the word Scotch is protected: it may only be applied to whisky that is distilled within the borders of Scotland. Of course, you could use the same recipe and distill your brew somewhere else in the world, but you couldn't call the results "Scotch." You could, however, call it "whisky" or even "single malt whisky" (assuming it meets the criteria defining a single malt). If you're from Japan, you'll probably call it The Yamazaki.
The Japanese have been distilling single malt whisky in the style of Scotch since the founding of the Yamazaki Distillery by a Scottish-trained whisky-maker in 1923. Like the Scots, Japanese distillers create their whisky using pure malted barley and the finest local water, which they process in copper pot stills. This brand was founded by Suntory, who also bottle Midori liqueur, beer, and Pepsi-Cola in Japan and own the patent on the blue rose. Suntory markets The Yamazaki as either a twelve-year-old or an eighteen-year-old single malt whisky. Originally deemed inferior to Scotch single malts, the Japanese product has done well in blind taste tests and thus made significant inroads into the world spirits market in recent years. It probably didn't hurt that this is the whisky Bill Murray's character advertises in "Lost in Translation." Remember how he savored every drop in those commercials? There's good reason...
Tasting notes:
The pour: The Yamazaki pours up a clear golden amber, similar in color and clarity to the lighter single malts I associate with the Highlands, such as Oban and Glenmorangie. The addition of a wee dram of cold water clouds the liquid the slightest bit, releasing a tantalizing floral aroma with hints of vanilla and almond.
On the tongue: The whisky does not have the peaty "bite" characteristic of stronger Scotch varieties, such as my favorite Islay malts. Instead, there's a distinct nutty character with a hint of sweetness. Presumably this has to do with the Scots' habit of drying the malted barley over a smoky peat fire, which does not seem to be the "whisky-do" of Yamazaki. An overall light and clean taste that should appeal to fans of some of the milder single malt varieties.
The finish: Like the initial taste, the finish is understated, with some caramel and a malt note. It sustains those notes nicely, however.
Scotch comparisons: I started digging through the liquor cabinet and quaffed a sip of each of several whiskies for comparison. In "strength of burn," the alcohol character, this whisky is much smoother than the Islay malts (tasted against the Black Bottle 10 Islay blend), and is quite similar to a Speyside (mine is a Springbank 10). It has a somewhat more distinct character than the Ms's Glenfiddich Reserva 12, but pales alongside the Balvenie Single Barrel 15 I have hidden away. In overall smoothness, it ranks at about the middle of the set.
Overall, The Yamazaki 12 is a good, light entrant into the world of single malts, one that should not be overlooked simply because it's "not really" Scotch. It will appeal more to those who like their whisky smooth as silk, without the rough edges that some Scotches have. Fans of Macallan or the Glens - fiddich and livet - ought to find it quite drinkable. After all, James Bond liked it...
See also: Black Bottle 10 Year Old
Recommended:
Yes
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