Thai Chef, Washington, D.C. ....Much Improved Decor, But Average Thai Cooking
Written: Apr 25 '03 (Updated Apr 25 '03)
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Pros: Reasonable prices, decent food and a fresh look
Cons: Not terribly inventive, very crowded at times
The Bottom Line: The cooking here is nothing out of the ordinary, but this is now a reasonable alternative to any of its neighbors on Connecticut Avenue.
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| tombarnes's Full Review: Thai Chef |
On busy Connecticut Avenue, just above Dupont Circle, the restaurants grow fast and thick. The choices are many and varied, so I don't often visit some of them. One place I avoided for a very long time as Thai Chef. I avoided it because the place was dark, gloomy and uninviting. It didn't matter that the food there was acceptable, the place just wasn't welcoming. Imagine my surprise when they renovated the place last year. The newly renovated restaurant is as far away from the old as one could get, at least in terms of atmosphere.
The Room
What had been a dark, unwelcoming hole, has become a bright, airy, two storied dining room. A sushi bar is near the front, which is usually open to the street, and there are tables downstairs, and up on the second level overlooking the lower floor. This is a vast improvement over the old dining room. Even the exterior of the building was renovated attractively, a far cry from the old facade, which had been uglified with crude paintings directly on the stone. Fortunately, this damage has been undone, and the place is fresh and inviting today.
The Menu
First Course
To most diners unacquainted with Thai food, Satay ($5.95) is likely one of the most familiar Thai dishes out there. Their version isn't bad, though the peanut sauce is just short of cloying. There is a trace of red papper and cucumber to cool off your tongue from the pepper.
The Tod Mun ($5.95) sounds better than the reality. Fish cakes served with a peanut, cucumber sauce mixed with a fiery chili paste sounds like a winner to me. Unfortunately, the fish cakes were fried to death, and came to my table like large, chewy erasers, and the sauce had no subtlety at all. It was merely like a gust from Hell on the palate.
Somewhat more delicate is the Shrimp Snow Cone ($4.95), a clever take on satay, with shrimp, mushrooms, minced chicken and a bean curd "thread" on a skewer. Never mind the sweetish plum sauce, the skewer is still good to eat, and good to look at too.
Soup
On my last visit, I had the Thom Kah ($3.95), the usual chicken and coconut milk soup with galanga and hot Thai pepper. While very good, the soup came in the smallest bowl imaginable. The tiny earthenware vessel suggested a finger bowl which had been pressed into service.
For something larger, you might try the Thai Chef Tom Yum ($8.95), a large steaming bowl of shrimp, mushrooms and toasted keenu peppers. The lemongrass broth has a dash of lime, and is not overwhelming in its heat.
There are a couple of other soups on the menu, a Sweet Corn Soup ($2.95) and the Wonton Soup ($2.95), but these lack the interest of the more traditional Thai soups.
Curry
I usually go for the curry here, from the traditional Panang ($8.95 or $12.95 with seafood), a mildly fiery concoction of peanut sauce and curry paste, to the very hot Green Curry ($8.95 or $10.95 with seafood). The searing heat of the curry paste is leavened by the sweetness of coconut milk and basil leaves. Bamboo shoots add crunch to the dish. The Red Curry is almost as hot, (same price as the green curry), but won't set your mouth afire. Most curries here can be had with chicken, beef, tofu or seafood.
One of their specialties is the Gaeng Ped Yang ($9.95), or honey roasted duck with red curry, coconut milk, pineapple and tomato. It's not bad, but is a bit on the sweet side of things for my taste. Possibly better, the Gaeng Som More Din ($12.95), is a sweet and sour curry with shrimp, cabbage and green beans. They do this one in a clay pot at your table.
Other Specialties
The menu here is fairly extensive, so I won't recite all of it. A few highlights, though, might be in order. I have enjoyed the Wild Pork ($8.95), stir fried pork in a red curry paste with bamboo shoots, green beans, coconut and basil. The Crying Tiger ($9.95) is not for the faint of heart. Marinated and charcoal broiled beef is sliced thin and served with a sauce guaranteed to make you wince.
The menu has a number of standard Thai dishes as well, from the Rama in Jaguzzi ($8.95), a chicken dish with watercress in a peanut sauce, to the Katium ($8.95 or $12.95)chicken, pork , or shrimp in a white pepper sauce with lots of garlic.
A few of the dishes are just short of strange. The Fresh Asparagus ($11.95) comes with either breaded duck or shrimp, but has been doused in a sauce of acrid wine. Thai cooking does not normally employ wine under most circumstances, so the addition here is odd, at best.
Noodles
More standards here too. The Pad Thai ($8.95) is an acceptable rendition of the usual, with shrimp or chicken, rice noodles, egg, crushed peanuts, scallions and bean sprouts. Nothing out of the ordinary, but well executed.
The Drunken Noodle ($8.95 or $10.95) is drunk with spices, not alcohol. The ground beef, chicken or seafood are stir fried with broad, flat noodles and a demonic broth of chili, onion, tomato and basil leaves. Rather good, if you don't mind the spices.
Sushi Bar
The front room is dominated by a steel bar, at which one can get drinks or sushi. I have not tried the sushi here, but they do have an extensive list of sashimi, tataki, sake toro and so on.
Cost
This is a restaurant of no great pretension, so you will easily get out of here without breaking the bank. Unusually, alcohol prices are a bit lower than at some of the neighboring places. A standard Singha beer is about $3.50 and a 20 oz. beer is about $6.00. They do offer wine, but don't bother with it here. Wine is not traditional with Thai cooking, and you would do well to stay away from it here.
Dress Code
This is a casual place, so one can go in wearing just about anything. It can be very crowded on weekends.
Reservations Etc.
Reservations are not likely needed here, though there can sometimes be a short wait for a table. They do take most credit cards, though checks are not welcomed. The restaurant is open daily as follows;
Monday- Thursday 11:30 AM- 10:30 PM
Friday 11:30 AM- 11:00 PM
Saturday 12:00 PM- 11:00 PM
Sunday 12:00 PM- 10:30 PM
Thai Chef
1712 Connecticut Avenue, N.W. 20009
Tel. 202-234-5698
FAX 202-234-5699
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Reservations are not necessary
Best Suited For: Friends
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Epinions.com ID:
tombarnes
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 - Top 200 |
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Member: Thomas Barnes
Location: Fort Lauderdale & Washington, DC
Reviews written: 688
Trusted by: 443 members
About Me:
With Barbara in Miami, 2004
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