Two masticating inmates at the Asylum
Written: Jun 23 '03 (Updated May 11 '06)
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Pros: Excellent food, superior wine list, funky decor, historic location, haunted building
Cons: Windows are too small to fully appreciate the view, but some outdoor dining is available
The Bottom Line: The Asylum offers an excellent food and wine experience to discriminating clientele, and a chance to see a ghost as well!
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| adriennefoster's Full Review: The Asylum |
As our progress around Arizona drew to a close, my boyfriend, Russell, and I chose to have the last evening meal of our trip at the Asylum, located inside the Jerome Grand Hotel. My goal for the evening was to have a fine dinner and hopefully catch sight of one of the ghosts who occupied the premises. My ambitions were only half met, but this restaurant proved a good choice for a superior meat-and-potatoes type of meal.
For those unfamiliar with the Jerome Grand, it originally opened as the United Verde Hospital in 1927, then closed in 1950 as the local mining activity began to wind down. The Altherr family bought the building from the Phelps Dodge Mining Company in 1994 after 44 years of neglect and refurbished it, leaving a portion aside to supply Jerome with its only posh restaurant. In the restaurant's first incarnation it was operated by the owner, but as responsibility for it interfered with that of the hotel, he eventually rented the space to independent operators. Since the current management took over July 15, 2001, diners have been driving from as far away as Scottsdale and Prescott just to enjoy the Asylum's hospitality.
During its previous life as the Grand View Lounge, I had learned that the bar manager entered the room one day and noticed a strange woman standing behind the bartender as she worked. The stranger appeared to be in her late 20s, wearing a high-necked blouse with long hair that was pulled back. When the manager stared at the stranger, she left the room. The manager asked the bartender who the stranger was, the bartender was confused. She had never seen her.
My Asylum Experience
Today many people think of asylums as a place to incarcerate people who are gibberish, but this bistro's attractive menu design includes the definition of asylum, which is 1) a place of refuge, retreat, shelter; 2) an inviolable shelter from arrest or punishment; 3) the protection afforded by a sanctuary or refuge; or 4) a looney restaurant on the fringe where it's safe to dine and get a little crazy. I love it when they have a sense of humor.
Rather than ignore the building's previous history, the Asylum's proprietor exploits it to its fullest and then some. The walls are painted purple with orange trim and little knick knack shelves display some of the relics of medical products that were dispensed when this section of the building housed the hospital's pharmacy (as well as doctor's offices and a nurses' station). A pile of table games are available for use in its lounge area and juice glasses hold an assortment of colorful crayons at the dining tables, which are covered with white butcher paper. Since this structure still maintains more than 95% of its original design, its windows are a bit on the small side to allow the best view of Verde Valley while dining, but some patio seating is available, offering no obstacles at all.
This was our second visit, the first being a year ago at lunchtime. We reserved a table and were seated on arrival with Matthew serving us. The dinner menu had a nice variety of nine starters and eleven meat, fish, or poultry entrées, each served with a vegetable and starchy side dish. Included with the price of the dinner was a soup or salad appetizer. They also offered a daily special or two. One of the standard menu entrées was a vegie dish (seasonal vegetables, sesame tofu, brown rice, with roast butternut squash and snap peas) where the guest could opt to include Cajun blackened chicken, if so desired.
Neither Russell nor I are big drinkers, but the Asylum takes big pride in its vast wine list, with several choices being offered by the glass. Co-owner Paula Woolsey is a member of the Wine Education Society. For $10, diners can have a mini wine tasting at their table. Also available for purchase is a souvenir Asylum wine glass. Russell and I, on the other hand, chose to have iced tea. It had a pleasant, crisp flavor without any of the inventive flavorings so many other restaurants give no choice about. (It always annoys us when a restaurant does that.) The iced tea did an excellent job of quenching our thirst.
I ordered the grilled pork tenderloin with chipotle apricot sauce while Russell selected the New York sirloin with shiitake mushroom, onion, and cabernet demi-glazé. I chose the house's wonderful butternut squash soup for my starter and Russell took the salad. Our appetizers were served within a reasonable waiting time.
This butternut squash soup was luscious. It was decorated with a cinnamon lime crema sauce that kind of looked like a doily floating on top. A pinch of minced green onion was dropped in the center. The heavy cream, beer, and brown sugar gives it richness, but it's not overpowering. The flavors of cinnamon and nutmeg teasingly linger on the tongue after swallowing. This is the type of thing that racks up points on my Weight Watchers program, but what a way to go. Imagine my delight to learn their recipe could be found on their website. Russell's salad was prepared with the dark lettuce that's attractive and nutritious. As much as he enjoyed it, we both agreed that it's a nuisance to try spear with our forks no matter where you go.
Our entrées were beautiful. Three or four small cuts of pork, about a half inch thick, leaned against a mound of mashed potatoes that had crispy shoestring fries sprouting from its top. An assortment of steamed vegetables were placed artistically above it. The chipotle apricot sauce covered the pork.
The pork was delicious. It was tender, juicy, and flavorful, with just the right amount of spicy charring on its outside edges. I was never one who particularly liked hot spices, so I avoided the bits of red in the apricot sauce, but its sweetness made an excellent complement to the pork. The little apricot chunks were appreciated even if the red bits were dodged. The vegies were steamed just right, leaving them a bit of crispness. The mashed potatoes had a nice flavor.
Although the Asylum offers a nice selection of desserts, we were too full to take advantage of them. The delicious soup was all the richness and calories I needed. However, we did order lattes after dinner. The strength of the espresso was just right, but anyone who likes them strong should be sure to ask for extra shots.
The ghost stuff
I had to ask about the ghosts. Acting Manager Kevin Scott probably has the most stories in the establishment, claiming he even saw United Verde Hospital's former maintenance worker, Claude Harvey, face to face, and repeated the story that widely circulates about him. Apparently, Claude had been having an affair with the wife of one of the hospital's executives before his body was found at the bottom of the hospital's elevator shaft. Some blamed the elevator, but the inquest determined he had been dead before his body was dumped there. (Every effort has been made to ensure the mechanical integrity of this 1926 elevator, which is still in use today.)
If asked, Scott has many paranormal anecdotes to tell about the building and the restaurant in particular. The most recent excitement was that of a twenty-something male hotel guest who passed an older man sitting in a hallway. When the guest turned around, the man had disappeared. Judging by the guest's description, the apparition matched that of one of United Verde Hospital's surgeons.
One day, one of the restaurant's hosts asked an incoming party if there would three for dinner, when they disappeared before her eyes. Scott claims that during a quiet period, he and a co-worker were setting up a game of chess when one of the pawns suddenly flew away from the table and hit the wall.
Despite Scott's stories, the front desk clerks insist the phenomena in the building is infrequent. We saw no ghost action during our visit that evening.
The bottom line
The Asylum serves lunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and dinner, 5 to 9 p.m., seven days a week. It has an award-winning wine list. The prices of entrées range from $16-$26; however, the giant Alaskan king crab and Australian lobster tail are at market prices. (The night we were there, the lobster was $34.50.) Reservations are recommended.
The small ghost town of Jerome, Arizona, has been regaining some momentum with a tourist industry and The Asylum is an asset that does it credit. It offers an excellent food and wine experience to discriminating clientele, and an opportunity to see a ghost as well! Whether you believe in ghosts or not, you'll definitely have a delicious meal.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Go for the butternut squash soup!
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