BATHS of the BVI. Fantastic, Beautiful, Awesome!!
Written: Sep 03 '03 (Updated Apr 07 '05)
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Pros: Amazing Formation!! I can use the word unique here.
Cons: Takes time to get to.
The Bottom Line: If you are into snorkeling, this is a wonderful experience. If you don't snorkel you can still walk the walkway. It's very cool!!
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| popsrocks's Full Review: The Baths National Park |
Last year my wife and I went to St John, US Virgin Islands. We read about the Baths of the British Virgin Islands. That information made me want to go. Alas, time was too short and we never went.
This year we again visited the US Virgin Islands staying on St Thomas. We knew we wanted to experience the Baths. We made arrangements and made a day trip out of it.
GETTING THERE
There are many advertisements of boat trips to the BVI. You could sail or take faster boats. Some just go to the Baths while others stop at other sites or dive/snorkel areas.
We decided on the public ferry that makes this run twice a week in the summer, Thursdays and Sundays. We had to take a fifteen minute ferry to St John USVI and changed boats. After a ten minute or so wait we left for the one and a half hour ride to Virgin Gorda, went through customs, got in a cab, and in ten minutes we were at the top of the Baths.
A WALK AND THE BEACH
Ha, I was taken back when I found out we had a 250 yard walk down to the Baths. OK I ASSumed we were going to be dropped off right on the beach. So we took our gear, put it on our back, and walked down the rocky, cactus and shrub lined path. Some was shaded some was not. It wasn't too hard getting down at all. Maybe a five or six minute walk. Of course you couldn't tell me it was less than a five mile trek back up!! OK, I'm exaggerating. It was hot and a little tiring going up, but, if you are in any kind of decent physical shape it won't be too much sweat. Hey, this almost three hundred pound guy did it.
SHOWERS, LOCKERS, RESTROOMS and MORE
Once we were on the bottom it was a pretty busy looking place, not with people, but with what I saw.
We first passed the restrooms and showers. They look to be fairly new and modern. It was nice to know that facilities were at the bottom of the hill. Showers cost $1.25 to use.
Just beyond a bit further down was a line of some lockers. About fifty of them. It's good to know they are here. You do have to have a passport to get into the BVI. What do you do with it and other valuables when you go swimming or snorkeling? Yes, the old wallet in the shoe trick is real good. Who would ever think about looking way down deep in the shoe near the toes? The heals maybe, but, never the toes.
Anyways the lockers cost $2.50. This is a traffic area and I don't think anyone would be trying to break into them. They looked good sturdy and unblemished. It seems a place where no crowbar has dared to go.
So we go down toward the beach area and there is a woman quietly standing over her table with t-shirts, shell necklaces, and other Caribbean gifts and wares. It didn't seem to be attracting many people.
To the left is an outdoor information desk made out of a few 2x4s and a piece of wood for a top with a guy there to answer questions. This my friends is the BVI Baths, National Park Visitors Center.
I asked what he suggested to do. He said to walk the path to the left, heading south, see the sites, get to Devil's Bay, then return.
What he suggested is the best way to see the area in the short amount of time we had of four hours or so.
To our right looking at the beach is a small stand that sold food and drinks. I'll tell you a bit more of it in a bit.
This whole area with all the facilities etc was only thirty or so yards in area. Everything is close by.
The white sand, in the sun, was very hot. Keep on the sandals till you get to the cooler sand that is wet or till you find a shady spot. Yes, I know I'm coming across like a pampered prima dona, but please, take my word for it, "IT'S HOT!"
There are a few palm trees on the narrow stretch of soft white, clean sand. Yes, IT'S HOT TOO! If you are going to leave a towel and some things be sure to figure out where the shade will be when you come back. I set my things up in the sun, when we returned an hour or so later it was in a shaded area. Perfectly done.
THE BEACH AREA
When you look out onto the beach the dramatic look of the rocks is amazing. Huge granite boulders, some as wide and tall as 40' are in a jumbled setting of one on top of another and others leaning on each other. Be sure you have a couple of cameras. You do want in addition to your regular camera an underwater camera if you snorkel. They do sell them right at the little food shack.
Just beyond the boulders is an armada of sailing boats and yachts. They do make for a pretty picture. Some of these are here on day trips and some stay over for the night.
There was a problem at one time in that all these boats would send their people in on dinghies. This cluttered up the beaches and frankly I think they would be a hazard to people snorkeling in the water.
There is now a dinghy shuttle service that keeps traffic down to a minimum.
The Baths can be a very busy place. It is said that over 50% of the visitors who come to the British Virgin Islands visit the Baths. There are many side trips there from the US Virgin Islands too. We were there in the summer and it really wasn't all that busy.
If you have time I suggest that you stay over in the BVI at least one night. That's what we will do in two years when we return here.
Last year we stayed on St John US Virgin Islands and this year we stayed on St Thomas USVI with the side trip to the BVI Baths. Next year we plan on St Croix USVI with a side trip to Buck Island That too, like the Baths is said to have some wonderful and even world class snorkeling and dive sites.
GETTING INTO the WATERS
We put on our snorkeling gear and headed right to the water and began swimming toward the south. We hugged the first outcrop of giant boulders and then started swimming in and out and among them. It was awesome!!
We had to swim through some narrow passageways and get into enclosed areas and had to figure the next way out. This was fun and a bit of adventure. All this time the waters underneath were crystal clear and all kinds of fish were about. Sergeant Majors, Parrot Fish , and Puffins were in abundance and purple sea fans, and bright yellow elkhorn coral held onto the bottom floors and sides of the huge boulders in the water.
In the deeper water of maybe just thirty feet or so you could see clear down to the bottom viewing all kinds of coral and sea life clinging to the edges of the stone formations. Here's that word again, Awesome!!
There was one really good sized barracuda who roamed this area. Let me tell you, they are nasty looking fish. I like getting close pictures, so on occasion I will start swimming toward one of these guys. They just face you, staring you down in a sort of "chicken" game. As you get closer they just keep staring. Ha, with me, they always win the game.
We continued in the more shallow water where we actually came up to caves and grottos formed from the granite rock.
The very first area we encountered was where the picture at the head of this piece is. It gives you a little taste of what it is like in quiet enclosed area, with shallow pools of water, and filtered sunlight coming in.
We continued swimming in and out of the shadows of the rocks and small passageways heading south. We rounded a large set of rocks and there in front of us was Devil's Bay Beach. It looked great from the water. We would have liked have spent some time there and relaxed, but time was short, we didn't want to miss anything, so we started back to the Baths Beach.
A LITTLE LUNCH ON the BEACH
We got back to our towels, now in the shade, and sat down a bit. You must be in the shade when the sun is out. There aren't any breezes on this side of the island. The sun is brutal.
Originally my wife planned on us eating at a place that was written up in one of the travel books we use. That should have been the warning to me. It said that the restaurant sits at the top of the Baths. I don't remember its name but it was nice looking. Thinking about it the name may have been Top of The Baths. It had a pool you could hang out in while at the bar, and a small group of touristy stores lined up on one side of it. The views were lovely but time and distance kept us from going to the top for lunch.
We decided to have a little something at the wooden hut snack shop. A man and woman were there. She was playing some Christian music while sitting in the shade. The guy was friendly and was just finishing up making a strawberry daiquiri for a gentleman. They looked great and the guy had a loose hand on the rum.
We ordered two strawberry daiquiris, two thick cheeseburgers with fries, a pack of M&Ms, a bag of Skittles and with a tip came to a total of twenty dollars. The food, drinks, and prices were perfect. I would, in the future spend some time and money on the top of the hill too.
We ate, drank, and relaxed for a half hour and then started on our hike. We took the recommended trail to the south. This takes a some ducking, crouching, climbing over semi-slippery rocks, and squeezing through opening. Some people seemed to make it through narrow spaces much easier than I did. Mmmm, I wonder why? I do suggest wearing some kind of foot wear. It's pretty tough and nearly impossible in places with bare feet. I should know. I didn't wear anything.
We climbed up and over rocks. The park has put in some steps and ropes to hold onto in places. This is considered a moderate walk. Any healthy semi-fit person can do it. Hey, I did!
We would pass some people coming from the opposite direction and other people passed us because we were traveling slowly, enjoying the little out of the way caves and grottos.
We came to one section where the water was about two foot or so. It was very calm, like a bath. The water was clear and it felt good to sit in the water in the shade of the huge boulders that formed a roof over our heads.
Hearing the echoing sounds of our voices and listening to the ever-present sound of water gently running in and out with the tide was mesmerizing.
We were there at peak time so the mood was broken every few minutes or so when people come through that part of the trail.
The quiet moments sure were wonderful.
We never made it to Devil's Bay. We turned around and went back to the beach where we cooled off in the waters, and headed up the path to the air conditioned stores and bargains within.
CLOSING FACTS, THOUGHTS and SUGGESTIONS
The Baths National Park is run by the BVI National Parks trust. It was designated a National Park in 1990. Devils Bay is also part of the parks system.
We had only four or so hours in the Bath area. I am very happy we did it, at the same time I see that so much more time can be filled exploring and taking in what the area has to offer. If you have the time, at least an overnight would be helpful.
If you are taking any kind of tour there be sure you have at least three or four hours. Anything less would be a tease and frankly, to me, wasted money.
Have an underwater camera.
Even if you are just walking the trail, it does go in and out of shallow water. Be careful with regular cameras. Maybe you could bring that back up camera instead of the real good one.
Sun lotion, a must.
On a day trip bring just a little bit of cash, a credit card, and passport. You could get one of those personal water proof containers and keep everything with you.
If you have those rubber shoes made for walking in and out of water, bring them. They would be perfect for the trail.
Swim and snorkel in pairs and enjoy The BVI Baths
They are AWESOME!!
Other Virgin Island and Caribbean destinations reviewed by popsrocks .
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Recommended:
Yes
Best time to go: Anytime
Recommended for: Anybody
Review Topic: Overview
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