TOURING TULUM, MAYAN RUINS ON THE MEXICAN RIVIERA
Written: Dec 12 '02 (Updated Mar 03 '05)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Spectacular setting
Cons: Try and avoid the cruise ship mobs
The Bottom Line: Spectacular setting, even with the hordes of cruise ship tourists.
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| JAMES23's Full Review: Tulum |
There is a brief moment when the group of tourists wanders out of the camera's viewfinder. For a few seconds the ancient Castillo looks, as it must have to the Mayans, impressive and imposing on the cliff overlooking the clear turquoise waters of the Caribbean. The image is fleeting as another group of tourists following their guide wanders into view and the spell is broken. I quickly press the shutter before it is.
This is Tulum the ancient Mayan Ruins in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo. Located on a cliff overlooking the sea about a two-hour drive south from Cancun, Tulum is not the largest of the Mayan archaeological sites in the region nor perhaps even the most important. However, it's location overlooking the Caribbean makes it perhaps the most impressive, and the most visited site.
Tulum it is believed was first occupied around 1200 AD. Construction and improvements continued until well after the Spanish first arrived in the area in 1518. A fresco in one of the buildings plainly shows a Mayan God standing beside a horse. Horses are not native to the region and were imported by the Spanish. The site appears to have been part of a series of watchtowers and/or fortifications along the coast to protect the Mayans. The word Tulum in fact means wall in Mayan.
The original inhabitants did not submit meekly to the Spanish newcomers. In fact the local Indians continued to rebel against the Mexican Government until early in the twentieth century. Throughout the nineteenth century a protracted guerrilla war was conducted in Quintana Roo by a Mayan tribe the Chan Santa Cruz to try and keep the area independent. Their main centre was the town of Tulum. The Chan Santa Cruz eventually surrendered and signed a peace treaty with the Mexican Government in 1935.
The present site is an open rectangular field 380 metres in length by 165 wide. Walls three to five metres in height, and for the most part still intact, surround three sides, pierced by five gates. The cliff face and the sea protect the fourth side. The main entrance is through the eastern gate, and the others are closed with chains. Inside sixty odd buildings, temples, altars and other structures are scattered about. The remains of several roads connecting the gates can also be seen.
The most impressive structure is El Castillo. It is located almost directly in the centre of the site. It is a large limestone pyramid that overlooks the cliff face, and is surrounded by a couple of smaller temples and a courtyard. It immediately draws visitors to it like a magnet. While you are not allowed to climb the main staircase, you can get close enough to examine the elaborate workmanship.
El Castillo is not the only structure worth seeing. Immediately to the east of it, is the Gran Palacio, or rather the remains of it with its massive columns still proudly reaching skyward. Near this is the Temple of the Frescos, which contains the majority of these preserved intricate works of art. Several other smaller structures both large and small are also found in this immediate area.
Far to the south near the perimeter wall is the solitary Temple of the Sea. The view northward from here of the coast with El Castillo framing it is spectacular. The view from the Temple of the Wind God, perhaps the most visited structure after the Castillo is also breathtaking. Looking southward, one can see the small beach nestled between the cliffs and the Castillo looming above it. Don't miss the three miniature replicas of temples at the base of this structure.
Also worth the climb are two structures on the northern wall. At the eastern corner is a small building referred to as the watchtower. It doesn't appear to have been used as a defensive building, but for some ceremonial purposes. There is a small altar inside worth a closer look. The small slit window provides a great panoramic view of the whole site and is a good vantage point for pictures.
Midway along the wall is one of the gates or entrances, partially overgrown. There is a chain across the gate to prevent entrance, but it is possible to look through, the narrow passage and get an impression of how the original inhabitants came and went.
At the North East corner is a large temple on a hill. Don't miss exploring the cavern underneath, where a Cenote, a natural pool can be found. The name of this particular Cenote is the Well of Sacrifice. That gives you an idea of what the altar in the temple above might have been used for. If you're careful, you can move to the cliff edge here for a spectacular look at the surf pounding on the rocks far below.
There is a small inlet between the hills on which El Castilloand the Temple of the Wind God are perched. Here there is a small but inviting beach. The sand is whiter than any found at the resorts farther north, and the water clearer and more refreshing. It is the perfect place to take a break and a quick dip after touring the ruins.
The grounds here are not overgrown like those at the ruins of nearby Coba, so shorts are ok. Good walking shows are essential though, especially if you plan on climbing those buildings that allow it. The sun is quite bright, so a hat, sunscreen and water are also essential. A bathing suit and a towel for a quick dip in the sea after are also a good idea. Naturally bring plenty of film.
Tulum is open daily from 8:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. Admission to the site at the time of writing is 30 Pesos ($3.00 US), with a further 30 Peso charge for video cameras. The site is located about a ten-minute walk along a path from the visitor centre, which is just off Highway 307. There is a small shuttle that runs between the site and visitor centre for those who don't feel like walking.
There are several multi lingual guides available at the entrance for those not part of an organized tour group. A guided tour of the site usually takes between 45 minutes to an hour. A guide is not really necessary though as all the major buildings have signage in English, Spanish and Mayan. Good guidebooks are also available in the visitor centre.
The visitor centre contains a couple of money exchanges (the rates are much worse than in either Cancun or Playa del Carmen.), Washrooms and several restaurants and snack bars. There are also several souvenir and gift shops, selling replicas of Mayan Art, colourful blankets and hammocks and a variety of other items.
A quick tip, there are several similar places on the side of Highway 307 on the way south to Tulum. The prices at these roadside stands are much better than at the visitor centre. Several Mayans in traditional costumes can be found about the visitor centre and will pose for pictures with tourists for a small tip.
The best time to visit Tulum is early in the morning before the tourist buses from Cancun arrive. It is still cool and one can appreciate the grounds without the crowds. It is also the best chance to get pictures of the ruins without anyone in them. If you can't make it first thing in the morning, then wait until later in the day, when the crowds have departed.
Alternately there is a gap around noon when the groups from Cancun have either departed or headed to the beach, and the groups from the cruise ships from Cozumel have yet to arrive. After visiting the site, if you have time, a quick trip to the present day village of Tulum is also recommended. Here you will find several small restaurants perfect for a late lunch or early supper before heading home.
Note: I originally posted this review may 13, 2002 in the Mexico General Itineraries section. Now with the introduction of specific section for Tulum I deleted it there, updated it and reposted. FYI it had 49 member hits (VH), 441 total hits to date and seven comments.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Students
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Epinions.com ID:
JAMES23
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Member: James Smith
Location: Toronto Ontario CANADA
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