Veniero's Reviews

Veniero's

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soothsayer
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Is Veniero's Good? Or Just Hype?

Written: May 25 '02 (Updated Jul 19 '02)
Pros:Satisfying
Cons:Cheap-tasting pastries.
The Bottom Line: Traditional Italian pastries, good, but not the best.

People rave about Veniero’s all the time, and it is no wonder. Sweet, and fat laden goodies that satisfy the id, and positively spun reviews that caters to the ego. Some say Veniero’s is the best, but, if you never had anything better, that may be true.

Veniero’s specializes in traditional Italian pastries like cannolis, napoleons, butter cookies, cheesecakes, that sort of thing. Italian pastries certainly look nice, taste great, but they sure are heavy on the palate, not to mention the gut. It is because of all the ricotta, and mascarpone cheese that are used in creating the desserts.

Personally, I do not like Italian pastries; well, not all the time. But it is not my dislike of Italian pastries that makes me dislike Veniero’s. They are merely OK, and they sure can do a lot better.

The cannolis, are what you would expect in a cannoli. They are $2.00 a pop as are most of the other individual-sized pastries. The napoleons are the same as many Italian napoleons, with a simple cream and sugar filling like cake frosting. I really don’t like this as the cream sticks to the roof of your mouth. I prefer a French mille feuille (thousand leaves) or “napoleon”. The French version of the napoleon uses pastry cream made of milk, butter, eggs, and vanilla.

For something a little different, one can buy miniature pastries at $9.00/lb (approximately 10-12 pastries in a pound). Miniatures are fun, they take but a few bites to finish, and they you move on to something different, they are available in all shapes and sizes. Veniero’s most popular item is their cheesecake, a traditional Italian style made of ricotta that has a fluffy texture quite unlike the ultra dense ultra rich style of New York cheesecake. They are $9.00 to $9.50 for a 7”, and $24.00 for a 12” cake, and are available either plain, or mixed with chocolate chips, almonds, etc.

Beside their lovely cheesecake, Veniero’s makes pastries, but these I find somewhat “cheap tasting”. The pastries taste as though the staff has taken liberties in introducing various shortcuts in preparing the desserts. I do not taste butter, but oil, and the heavy cream fillings mask whatever else is not apparent. I think this has a lot to do with Veniero’s being a high-volume business. They make a lot of pastries each day, and they do it in large batches at a time. A hundred cannolis, let’s say, and when one batch is finished, it goes straight to the pastry case where they sit and wait. With that sort of volume, it would be difficult to achieve quality. The only saving grace is that the pastries are “satisfying.” In the end, all that matters is pleasure, and Veniero’s genuinely satisfies.

As for service, the staff at the counter is fast, efficient, and personable despite the long lines waiting to order something. I have not sat in their small claustophobic caffe inside, so I cannot comment on the wait staff. Veniero’s ship worldwide, and their caffe is open until midnight, or 1am most nights.

Hours: Open until midnight most nights (sometimes 1am).
Address: 342 E.11th Street. NYC. 10003
Phone: 212 674 7070
Transportation:
Subway - 6 train to Astor Place, walk to 11th St, and First. The L train stop at 14th St, and First Ave, so it is a little closer. The M15, M101, 102, 103, and M14 bus also stops in the area.

Other pastry shops in the area:
Something Sweet, 177 First Avenue (on the corner of 11th Street).
The Black Hound, Second Avenue on 11th Street - Chocolate.
De Robertis’ Pasticceria and Caffe, 176 First Avenue (between 11th and 10th Street). Some Italian/French cafe on corner of First Ave and 10th St.


Recommended: Yes

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