US VIRGIN ISLAND NATIONAL PARK..........WOW!!!!!
Written: Aug 14 '03 (Updated Apr 07 '05)
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Pros: Beautiful, secluded, pristine beaches
Cons: Cruise ship people. Don't they know I'm selfish!
The Bottom Line: This is one great National Park!!
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| popsrocks's Full Review: Virgin Islands National Park |
This year my wife and I went to St. Thomas. I had much to add to my review of the US Virgin Islands. I asked our travel CL Di to add US Virgin Islands National Park to the Epinions Data base. She has done so. I did leave a bit of information of the national park in the ES Virgin Island review but I did have to trip that one down a bit after my update. So, I give you this review of the US Virgin National Park.
Last summer my wife and I decided on the US Virgin Islands and particularly St John for a vacation. We stayed at the Westin in ST John. The off season rates were excellent. One of the reasons we chose this destination is because we learned that 3/5ths of the island is National Park. What this equates to is few people and gorgeous empty beaches. That is exactly what we found. This year we stayed in St Thomas at the Antilles@Sapphire Beach. We took a one day trip to St John.
We landed in St Thomas and took a ferry to St John. There is no airport on St John.
VISITOR'S CENTER
The place to get most of your information about Virgin Island National Park is at the Visitors Center.
This can be found in Cruz Bay, St John. A short walk from the ferry and you are there. There is a small parking lot in the front area. Right nearby is Mongoose Junction. This is a great place for shopping and restaurants. Also nearby the parking lot is a car rental place. They seemed to have the best prices and largest selection on the island. Only rent a four wheel drive vehicle. You will need all four wheels plus a strong stomach for some of the hills and turns on the island.
The Visitors Center is where you can get much great information about the Island and particularly about the park. It's a huge white building with green shutters on the water. The rangers are fantastic in their enthusiasm and knowledge of the area. They have a short film, small displays, exhibits and the all important maps.
We were looking for secluded beaches and places to snorkel. They were quite helpful. They have excellent maps showing where to snorkel, what you may see, and the difficulty level of the area.
This is also the place to arrange reservations for one or two of the many ranger lead hikes and walks. This can be a walk along the beach learning about the flora and fauna of the area or you may take a hike through a mountain rain forest. They offer bird watching, searching out old Danish Sugar Mills ruins, or perhaps seeing glyphs etched in stone. For experienced snorkelers they have special guided opportunities to partake in.
Let me just tell you "We loved this place". We have been on a few all inclusive vacations in the last few years. The Alegro in Mexico, Sandals in Negril, Bavero Palace in the Dominican Republic and others. This was different. Though we stayed at the Westin, we really used it only as a base to sleep, and a little drinking. This island of undeveloped land, little population, beautiful beaches, and mountain hiking trails is a place to get in your jeep and start exploring!
I'll take you a bit around the national park. There is so much to see and do and there are so many places to just lay down on a beach all alone and do nothing or a little something if you please.
HAWKSNEST BAY
Heading west on rt 20 out of Cruz Bay follow the road a mile or so. Be sure to keep your eyes on the road. With all the spectacular scenery before your eyes it's not an easy task. Have a map in hand. Some beaches are not marked or have small signs. That's fine by me. The first stop will be Hawksnest Bay. This, being the closest to Cruz Bay, seemed to be the most crowded. There were a few other couples there the first day we went. There was a group of locals having a picnic on another day.
This beautiful beach offers overhead pavilions, picnic tables, charcoal grills and restrooms. This was our first stop and our first snorkeling. It's a great place for beginners. The water is well protected, shallow, and has reefs of coral perpendicular to the beach. You can actually start snorkeling in just a couple of feet of water. Always be aware of where the coral is. You don't want to destroy it so always keep your feet up. Remember the words, "If it's not sand, don't stand".
I suggest bringing your own snorkeling gear from home. It doesn't take too much baggage space, you know it fits, and know where it's been. Rentals are available in Cruz Bay, Trunk Bay, and at the hotels.
TRUNK BAY
After a visit at Hawksnest get into your car back onto rt 20 and continue east. As you are driving, at one point, you will see a scene out of National Geographic on your left. Beautiful white sand, on a curving beach with palm trees. There are small islands called cays, in the bay and soft blue coloured mountains on the islands in the distance. The water is crystal clear with a turquoise tint. You are looking at Trunk Bay. This is one of the most photographed spots of the island. My wife and I enlarged a picture I shot from here and it hangs in our bedroom. This area can become crowded for a couple of reasons. It is fairly close to Cruz Bay and it is also known for its world famous Underwater Trail. Though, for a seasoned snorkeler, it may seem a bit hokey, I enjoyed it. You put on your gear and follow the signs that are posted under water. The information on the markers lists what you are looking at, what is in the area, and moves you along. For an even better snorkeling experience here continue beyond the trail and go around the nearby cay.
We did not encounter crowds at all. What we did was to pick up a local paper that lists the arrival dates and times of cruise ships. On those days we stayed away from the well known places.
Trunk Bay does have a charge. It's about $4.00 for the day. The area has a good size parking lot, gift shop, rental equipment, snack bar, rest rooms, changing area, and picnic tables. There are also life guards here. Most beaches do not have guards. That makes this a good place for kids and non swimmers.
CAMPING
The next area to visit and perhaps stay is Cinnamon Bay Beach and Campgrounds. This is the only area you can camp in the park. The camp grounds, nestled in the hills above the beaches, have cottages, tents, and open sites . Reservations are a must. The campgrounds have rest rooms and showers. There is a restaurant, general store, and beach shop. From any of the sites it's a short walk down to the beaches. It's a bit more strenuous going back up. The beach on the east side of the campgrounds is definitely quieter because the road does not run close to it. Most campers go here.
On the west side, the first area encounter by car coming from Cruz bay, has a beach that is a mile long. There is parking along the road. It's not plentiful, but then again, in the off season there just weren't many others there.
Here's a secret for you. Due to the trade winds and cooling effects of the Atlantic Ocean to the east there is only an eight degree difference in air temperature between the winter and summer. This means the summers aren't intolerable. With the off season rates I think the Virgin Islands are one of the best values in the Caribbean. We had one rain shower on the day we arrived. Nothing else after that. Being that they are US owned I also like the use of American currency, and English is the first language.
MAHO BAY
The next larger beach area is Maho Bay. This didn't have the best snorkeling. Ha, I'm now comparing it to the rest of the island. It's still better than most places throughout the Caribbean. This place did have pavilions that are available for reservations by large groups. We never saw any large groups at all. In fact this was a very quiet beach. We did see quite a few donkeys on the road where we parked the car. This was a very relaxing beach.
CREATURE COMFORTS
Another thing my wife and I do is take our own lounge chairs on the plane with us from home. No, not as carry ons. I purchased a couple of those chairs that fold into three sections. They fold rather flat. I fold two of them up, wrap them in two plastic black trash bags together and then tape it up with a couple of bands of duct tape. I put a small hole in the bag to slip a luggage tag through and we send it with our luggage. We haven't lost them yet. We put them in our rental car, and have them wherever we go. Hey, being in my fifties I enjoy the chair rather than a towel in the sand. It makes it easier reaching for my pre-made Margarita that I poured into a glass from a thermal container.
Yes, of course, I know that alcohol is prohibited in a National Park. Fortunately, there really isn't anybody checking. Please don't ell the authorities! A drink, along with a freshly made sandwich from one of the local market places in Cruz Bay, kept us well satisfied before returning to our hotel later in the day. A little bit of these creature comforts kept us very relaxed on many of the secluded beaches we happened upon.
The parks beaches on the north side of the island were wonderful. After adventuring, hiking, and snorkeling we would just relax on our chairs and the sun would be getting low in the sky giving just the little bit of warmth that made things just right.
PLACES TO DISCOVER
I have mentioned a few beaches. There are so many more, however, I want to mention one of the hikes you can take. As you continue east again look for signs for the Annaburg Sugar Mill Ruins. Pull into the parking lot. There are a couple of porta potties here but if you look a bit further along the lot you will see a nice restroom.
This parking lot is the beginning of a short uphill trail that will take you to the ruins. If you have a map from the visitors center you are ready to go. If you don't have a map there is a self guided trail. I found this very interesting. Some great photo opts are here too!
The park has many trails. Most are pretty well marked. Be sure to always have extra water, sun lotion, and a hat when hiking. I always wore shorts or a bathing suit on the beach trails. Long pants and good shoes are a good idea for some of the inland mountain trails.
A MOUNTAIN HIKE
A great walk is the Reef Bay Trail. This is in the mountains off rt10, the inland road that travels the middle of the island. You can do it on your own but the problem is you then have to walk the thousand or so feet back up the mountain to return to your car or public transportation. The thing to do is sign up for the walk and pay the fifteen dollars for it. It's worth it. Why? Because once you are at the end of the trail on the small beach below that has no nearby roads, you jump onto a boat that take s you back top town.
This walk takes you through rain forest type areas and ever changing eco systems as you descend the mountain. There are other old danish ruins and also a side trail that takes you to some Petroglyphs. Those in the know, don't know, who may have left them. It is said possibly Amerindians or slaves brought in to work the fields during the islands colonial times chiseled them into the rock.
If you decide to take this hike be sure to get to the trail head early. There isn't much parking. Better yet, leave with the ranger from town using public transportation to get there. They will tell you were to meet. Remember the boat goes back to Cruz Bay. It doesn't cruise up the mountain back to your parked car.
We had started this walk on our own one day. We were going to walk back up after doing the trail to it's end at the beach. We turned around after meeting some folks on their way back up. They said, "never again".
This hike is well worth going down on, but don't try the round trip unless you are in excellent shape and have plenty of water and good hiking boots or shoes.
The park is divided in places by private land. Just watch signs. If you are on the middle road of rt10 follow your map to Bordeoux Mountain Road for an adventure. This takes you to the highest point on the island, over 1,200 feet high.This is still part of the park. The road is paved for a little bit then it's all dirt. The dust will fly and the fun begins. Just be careful. This road will eventually come out on the other side of the island. Check your map and go to Salt Pond Bay. There is a nice hike there and a place for more snorkeling. We did see sea turtles there too.
Quick fact. The Virgin Islands are formed from ocean floor volcanoes.
The National park has so many places to adventure in. The beauty of the park is fantastic. There are many secluded beaches that I haven't even mentioned.
THE PARKS BEST SNORKELING
Alright, I'll tell you about the best snorkeling on the island. After your walk at the Annaburg Sugar Mill go back to the trail along the beach. This is the Leinster Bay Trail. Once on the trail you will see a cay about half a mile off shore. You can walk around to it or if you are daring, swim out to it. I say daring because this is deeper water here. My wife was a bit uncomfortable swimming it but nevertheless made it and it was worth the effort!!
This year we walked around. She fell down. Ouch!! She did a number on her knee, but being the trooper she is we continued on. The sharks didn't circle around her attracted to the blood. We did get to see a nurse shark on the far side of the cay this year. They are quite harmless.
The cay is names Waterlemon Cay. Some maps label it watermelon. This was the best place to see sea turtles, sting ray, squid, giant starfish, and all kinds of colourful fish.
You can walk around to this area too. I recommend swimming around the Cay counter clock wise. This takes you with the currents and not into swells from trade winds out of the east. Look for sea turtles and sting ray in the sea grass area between the beach and the cay. we saw at least four turtles one day. Big huge ones. Very Cool!!
We also encountered millions of small fish. The water was so thick with them that we couldn't see beyond a few feet. It was very cool watching tarpon herding them in and feasting on the fry. Pelicans were also diving into the water feasting on them.
On the far side of the cay is a drop off. It is here we saw giant star fish on the floor bottom and groups of squid swimming together. Would squid be considered swimming in schools like fish. I don't know.
GETTING AROUND
The park is a wonderful mix of things to do. If you want to just sit around and have a drink or two by a pool, this isn't the place for you. If you are willing to get in a car and explore, this is the place. I should mention that there is public transportation around the islands. There are taxis that are forever traveling the roads looking for a fare. The taxis are small pick-up trucks with bench seating in the back and an overhead canopy. They take as many people as will squeeze in.
HAVE YOUR PASSPORT STAMPED
Over the years I have been collecting passport cancellation stamps from National Parks, National Historic area and other National destinations. All the National Parks are part of this program. You can usually purchase your park passport at a visitor center. All the parks have the cancellations. It's a great way to collect parks, and get kids interested.
BRINGING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS HOME
After going home my wife came up with the idea of redecorating our bedroom. We had dark furniture that did us well ever since we were first married. My wife loved St John so much she said, "Let's bring it home". She is an artist and art teacher. She got me to work cleaning and painting. She ordered some white simple furniture from Ikea. After I painted the room a light yellow colour she went to work. She ordered new carpeting that was installed. It is the colour of beach sand. We painted our king size bed a blue colour that represents the waters of the Caribbean. Then the real transformation started. She painted huge settings of palm trees from floor to ceiling in a few places. She then did a scene similar to one of the overlooks in St John above our bed. She then added some parrots and other touches. We put up some art work we had purchased down on the islands over the years. We have a ceiling fan. She had me paint the four blades in different island shades. She added a colourful bedspread and we now have our own St John, Virgin Island National Park, Caribbean paradise.
Try the Virgin Island National Park. We now live there. Well sort of. It's the best!!!
Other Virgin Island and Caribbean destinations reviewed by popsrocks .
US Virgin Islands An overview
St. Thomas VI An Island that has action!
Westin Resort, St John VI
St. John VI The island that is quiet and pristine.
US Virgin Islands National Park This park is awesome with private beaches and fantastic snorkeling!
Sapphire Beach and Marina One of the best beaches on St Thomas right out side your beachfront room.
Antilles@Sapphire Beach, St Thomas VI
The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, St Thomas
The BATHS of the British Virgin IslandsLike nothing else you have ever seen!
Barcelo Resort, Dominican Republic
http://www.epinions.com/content_74779627140
Allegro Resort, Playa del Carmen, Mexico
http://www.epinions.com/content_75575363252
Hotel Mayaland, Mexico
http://www.epinions.com/content_77819317892
Sandals, Negril, Jamaica
http://www.epinions.com/content_7893694820
Renaissance Jamaica Grand, Ocho Rios
http://www.epinions.com/content_79371210372
Jamaica, Jamaica me laugh, Jamaica me cry
http://www.epinions.com/content_79715208836
Frommer's Caribbean Guide
Recommended:
Yes
Best time to go: Anytime Recommended for: Couples
Review Topic: Overview
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