Resting on its Laurels? Zeni Offers Average Ethiopian Food
Written: Jan 19 '08
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Pros: Interior decor is much more interesting than typical ethnic restaurants, nice presentation
Cons: Disappointed by mediocre food
The Bottom Line: If you're looking to try Ethiopian cuisine for the first time, this is a safe way to do it. But for those with picky palates, this was disappointingly bland.
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| smiles33's Full Review: Zeni Ethiopian Restaurant |
I first tried Ethiopian food nearly 12 years ago at Meskerem in Washington, DC's famed Adams-Morgan neighborhood. Since then, I've regularly enjoyed this unique fare since Berkeley, CA also has a number of Ethiopian restaurants.
Recently, while scrolling through the Epinions site, I found two positive reviews of Zeni, which I learned is located only 10 minutes from my childhood home where my parents still live. And so, while those reviews are nearly 2.5 years old, I decided to make a lunch date with my husband and drop our daughter off with my parents.
This is Not Your Average Hole-in-the-Wall
Unlike the typical small ethnic restaurant I tend to frequent out in the suburbs (which I fondly refer to as a hole-in-the-wall with great food), this place is much cleaner and brighter. There are paintings of Ethiopian women and children on the walls, distinctive wall sconces, embroidered curtains and tablecloths, a thatch hut "roof" jutting out from the bar, fresh carnations in the vases on the table, and painted Ethiopian designs on the fluorescent light panels on the ceiling. They certainly made an effort to beautify what otherwise could have been just another hole-in-the-wall ethnic restaurant. In most equivalent restaurants, you might see free travel posters or other generic decor.
Still, this is located in a strip mall shopping center anchored by a Walgreen's and adjacent to a liquor store and a hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurant (which, ironically, we recently ate at with my parents but hadn't even noticed the Ethiopian restaurant 3 doors down).
The entire restaurant is larger than expected. I'd estimate that 40 people or so can comfortably fit in the front area with standard seating, while another 16 people or so can sit at the traditional Ethiopian wicker stools and low hourglass shaped tables in the far right side of the restaurant.
Our dining experience
We walked in just 5-10 minutes after they had opened at 12 noon on a Saturday. Since Brace33 is still recovering from knee surgery and using a cane, we opted for the standard table seating rather than trying to perch on a wicker stool. A couple were sitting in the rear, but other than that, it was empty.
We were quickly seated and offered laminated menus. It is an extensive menu and we immediately started scanning. But given snoopysnocone's recommendation to avoid the combination platter and definitely get the Gored Gored (Lean cubed beef simmered in a blend of red pepper and herbed butter. Gored Gored is served raw or rare, and served with Awaze (spicy hot pepper sauce) - $10) and davidmanning's recommendation of the Ye Beg Tibs (Succulent pieces of fresh lamb sauteed in butter seasoned with onions, green pepper, tomato and rosemary. Served juicy or fried -$10), we decided to go with those two main entrees and then just split an appetizer, the sanbussa (Thin dough shells stuffed with lentils, onion, hot green & herbs. This meatless dish is lightly deep fried in vegetable oil to a golden perfection. $2).
We also ordered a glass of the organic honey wine ($5) and the standard Ethiopian coffee ($3?). I can't find the price of the coffee on the restaurant's website, but our total bill was $30 before tax so I'm guessing it was either $3 or the other items' prices have changed from the website price.
As davidmanning pointed out in his review, the Ethiopian coffee has additional spices in it (ginger, cinnamon, and maybe cumin?). The cup is tiny and the coffee is quite good, so it was consumed rather quickly. I found the honey wine moderately appealing, but enjoyed it much more with food than alone.
When the sambussa arrived, it came on a regular white plate with two forks and a knife, since we were sharing it. I was surprised to see it was a flaky puff pastry, as I expected something more similar to an Indian samosa given the similarity in the names and the description. The pastry was a bit dry (perhaps from reheating?), while the lentils and spices fell flat. I found them to be far too bland for me, not nuanced at all.
All entrees come with injera, the Ethiopian sour "bread" that has a spongy consistency and is quite flat like a pancake, but with little "holes" in it from the yeast bubbles. I found the injera here to be very mild, not as strongly flavored as I have had at other Ethiopian restaurants, which makes me wonder whether they worried it might be too strong for non-Ethiopians.
When the waitress brings out your food, she first brings a platter with a large round injera (maybe 16" wide or so?) covered by a straw lid that looks a little like a hat. I've never seen this presentation before, so it certainly added some flair.
The entrees are poured onto this large piece of injera. There are also additional injera slices on the side so you don't have to tear up and eat the injera below the food, which often becomes mushy when the sauces seep through. In traditional Ethiopian culture, the injera is used as a utensil to pick up the meats and vegetables.
I forgot that snoopysnocone suggested you special order the Gored Gored medium rare, rather than the raw or rare option listed on the menu. Thus, we ordered it rare and that likely accounts for our very surprised experience. The chunks of beef are rather large to be prepared rare, so it was chewy and tough. I had thought it might be more tender, but I guess I was comparing it to a beef tartar or sashimi, which don't have the same chewy/stringy texture.
Fortunately, the Ye Beg Tibs saved the day. The lamb was tender and more flavorful, though Brace33 wasn't impressed at all so maybe I was just happy because it was so much better than the Gored Gored. He barely touched his portion (the waitress split the portion so half was directly in front of me and half in front of him).
Unlike some other Ethiopian restaurants, Zeni only includes a simple green salad (lettuce with 2 slices of tomato in a light vinaigrette). If we had a larger party, I would have indulged in the vegetarian combination davidmanning mentioned but I knew the portions would be large. What I've enjoyed at past Ethiopian meals is mixing different flavored vegetable sides with the meat entrees. Thus, I felt this meal didn't offer the complex spices and flavorings I'm accustomed to when eating Ethiopian.
Final Thoughts
Even if I had not read the two reviews on here, I would have been disappointed, but having read them, I had heightened expectations. I realize we only ordered a few items, of which 2 were outright disappointing and one was average. Thus, I do intend to return to try other items on the menu, especially since it's so conveniently located near my parents' home. Yet I should note that I am not overly optimistic about the return trip.
The price is reasonable, but there are literally hundreds of other options in this price range that are more delicious and memorable. If this had been my first time enjoying Ethiopian food, I'm sure I would have found it more entertaining since it is such a unique dining experience for Americans unaccustomed to eating with their fingers. And for this neighborhood (West San Jose/Saratoga/Cupertino), I'm sure it is popular. But for someone accustomed to the competitive Ethiopian cuisine "market" in Berkeley (where there are multiple great places), it's disappointing. I would love to know whether snoopysnocone still rates this as her favorite Ethiopian restaurant 2.5 years later.
Note to longtime readers: I usually try to check out the restroom of the restaurants I review but we had to rush back to pick up our daughter so I didn't get the chance. Given the bright clean front room, I would be surprised if this had the typical dim, grungy bathroom that hole-in-the-wall places usually have.
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Avoid the sambussa appetizer, don't order Gored Gored raw/rare, order your own vegetable sides
Best Suited For: Friends
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