The 1993-95 Mazda RX-7 is a fantastic car. Known also as the 3rd Generation RX-7 or the 'FD', this twin-turbocharged sports coupe has gained an enthusiastic following. Few cars combine such beautiful styling and high performance at this price.

However, this car was designed with components pushed to the limit of stress and light weight.  Therefore it requires careful maintenance to run reliably and so after 15 years the condition of vehicles for sale varies widely. It takes many more replacement parts to bring the average FD to showroom condition than other cars of the same age.  For that reason, plus the small size, and rear-wheel drive, a buyer should think carefully before putting an RX-7 into the role of a daily driver. The criteria for judging a used RX-7 and it's turbo'd rotary engine are different from ordinary piston-engine sports cars and earns the attention of the second half of this review, and I included a link to a FAQ/Buyers Guide which should be required reading.

My rating of 5 stars applies to the RX-7 as an enthusiasts' sports car. Specifically, enthusiasts who accept the tradeoff of comfort, reliability, and steep cost curve of performance modification. It would only rate as a 1 or 2 star car if compared to daily drivers. For this review I have aimed squarely at the enthusiast audience.

This review is based on my ownership of 1994 5-speed R-2, which I have owned now for 8 years and used for track driving, street driving, and autocrossing.  It is also flavored with my experience working on other's FDs and the chat of the FD online community.

For young drivers with limited road experience (teenagers) or limited budgets, I feel compelled to state this car is not appropriate.  Driving this class of sports car on public roads requires the highest awareness and in emergency conditions, skilled reflexes.  It is not a safe vehicle for learning the basics of operation and road safety.

Regardless of your driving experience or intended use, I strongly recommend that you enroll with your FD in a car control driving school, track day, or autocross school.  The skills and reflexes you develop are priceless, and you can develop in days what require years to learn otherwise.  It is also the only way to really appreciate what this car can do.

In 1994, many small adjustments were made as improvements over the 1993 debut. The paint process was improved to reduce the chipping and fading found in some 93s, and the interior panels are finished without coating that tended to peel in the 93s. A passenger-side airbag was added, the A/C retained R-12 refrigerant. (1995 models use environmentally-friendly, but less chilly R-134a). There are no safety recalls on the 1994 and later models.

The sport package, called R1 in 1993 was renamed to R2, changed so the suspension was a bit softer than the R-1, the exterior color Competition Yellow Mica was dropped, and White was added instead. The touring model was renamed to the PEG (Popular Equipment Group), which includes a sunroof, foglights, rear window wiper, Bose stereo, and leather seats. Generally, the 1994-95 models are more desireable than the 1993 models, and combined with lower production numbers, you should expect to pay more than a 1993 of equal condition.

Mechanical

First, the engine. This is a rotary engine (aka Wankel), meaning the crankshaft is not driven by pistons, but rotating triangular blocks. At 1.3L nominal displacement, it outputs 255HP and 217ft-lb of torque.  Well-orchestrated modifications can double this output, requiring significant changes in the fuel system, cooling system, removal of emission systems, engine computer, drivetrain, and computer tuning. So big power requires more than just a few bolt-on parts. The sound of the stock engine is a little different than what you're used to hearing - it's smoother and yet more impetuous sounding than a V6 or V8. The sound resembles the word "vroom", spoken by a silky-voiced lounge singer.  The engine compartment is cramped, so working on this car is not for the impatient. Supporting the engine are two Hitachi HT12 turbochargers operating sequentially at 10psi boost pressure. The first turbo is configured to run always and the second turbo adds in from 4500 up to redline (8000). As a result, this engine achieves its best torque and horsepower from 3000rpm and up and requires 3-4k rpm launches for the quickest possible dead start. Unfortunately turbocharged rotary engines are uncommon, even at most Mazda dealerships, so it pays to know the nearest rotary engine garage and to be willing to travel for it.  While a dealer with experience with other rotary engines is useful for some work, there are many characteristics of the turbocharged version that a dealer is not well prepared to handle.  Be very careful who you entrust to work on the car - mechanics in the know will understand your caution. If you're a DIYer, this car is workable if you get the factory service manual and consult the vast body of knowledge on the Internet. Gas mileage ranges from 12-20mpg over a 20gal tank, and 92+ octane fuel is always required. Some drivers claim to have blown an engine on a bad tank of gas, which is why I fill up with the Sunoco Ultra 94 whenever possible.

Handling

The handling of the car is outstanding - it racked up .97g's on the skidpad test with factory tires, in the range of other top sports cars.  With a new set of performance or race tires the grip only gets better.  The curb weight ranges from 2800-2900lb, distributed 50/50 between front and rear wheels. In straight-line acceleration it does 0-60 in 4.9s and 1/4 mile in 13.9s @100mph. (The automatic transmission is a few tenths slower on both statistics). Top speed is a drag-limited 155mph. Steering and suspension is very responsive but designed for hard cornering, so on the highway the RX-7 can feel a bit touchy. The lightweight stock alloy wheels are 16"x8" on all corners, resulting in a mild understeer at the limits of traction. This car is not forgiving to a beginning driver, but experienced race drivers claim this car reaches its limits with more forgiveness and much more excitement than other sports cars.  There were many sports car magazine comparison articles written that included the FD, and nearly all of them put the FD tops for enjoyment.  In my experience of learning to autocross in this car, I have found that the stock suspension holds loads of grip and releases smoothly, making it easy to control.  The only issue really is the surging power coming from the engine, which of course can disturb the balance and grip if the driver does not anticipate it properly.  The suspension geometry, while complicated, is highly advanced.  Unlike many other cars, does not require major modification when an FD is set up purely for racing.

The stock gearbox and clutch is a good balance between driveable and durable. If you test drive an RX-7 where a 4th-to-5th shift makes awful noise, it may be a damaged 5th gear synchro (fixable, but the labor isn't cheap).

Interior

The interior is laid out for sport driving, not touring. It is best summarized as a Lotus with more sound insulation and cushier seats.  Seating a tall person is possible in a non-sunroof model (I'm 6'1"), but getting my legs under the steering wheel takes extra time. The lack of any steering adjustment is terribly unfortunate. A large person may find the contoured seats uncomfortable, in fact I find the presence of my wallet in my back pocket to be annoying. Fishing something out of your pockets can be difficult even when unbelted.  Getting in/out of the car is equally tricky, so much that the drivers seat bolster usually shows wear from the effort. The low height and long doors do not work well with a narrow garage or parking lots. The is set up for racing, with a large tachometer front and center and the speedometer to the right. The driver will notice the rear pillar is broad and makes for a bigger blind spot. The rear view mirror gives a complete picture but blocks my forward view of sweeping right-hand turns. Behind the seats there are a pair of storage bins each sized like a small cooler. There are also pockets on the back of the seats that I use to keep my owners manual and paperwork. The inside door handles don't feel very firmly attached to the door, and the passenger inside door handle can be snapped off if pulled very hard. The doors also require a firm effort to shut, and the outside door handle mechanism is known for breakage. There are no cup holders and no reasonable place to add them. If you're a car stereo fan you'll find the manual shifter blocks much of the lower DIN panel. You may also find that rattles and squeaks appear easily because of the firm suspension. The interior of my car has a pocket in the door armrest, but is too deep and narrow to handle my cell phone, wallet, or sunglasses without fuss. Keep your elbow off of this armrest pocket or you may crack the lid. The interior lighting is weak to the point of being dim, as is the backlighting behind the console buttons.

It seems that these limited convenience features are meant only to keep you comfortable enough on your way to the track, which is precisely where this car belongs. The travel from your hand to the shifter is minimal, and your view of the road is good. The seats lock your body in place in the hardest corners, especially the comfortably grippy suede seatcovers of an R1 or R2 model. All in all, the interior is designed for driver accessibility and reduced vehicle weight. (You don't get down to 2800lb with a Cadillac interior).

The trunk is very shallow and the useable height is restricted to 8" by the presence of a stabilizer bar spanning the rear shock towers. The panel separating the trunk from the cabin can be unlatched and removed to expand trunk space. In this configuration you can fit a couple of light golf bags, but they must be narrow to slide them under the strut tower bar. The black plastic interior panels scratch easily, so I carry an old blanket to wrap cargo that might slide around. The hatchback opens and rests on sturdy hydraulic struts. My trunk requires extra effort to close because the latch was tightened to prevent rattling. Under a panel in the base of the trunk is possibly the world's ugliest yellow donut spare tire, clearly designed for light weight and the color chosen possibly to encourage immediate repair.

Exterior

This car, IMO, is truly beautiful. It seriously turns heads and keeps them turned. Even in 2009, many folks don't remember seeing one before and think it's new. In my part of the northeast it's more unusual than a Porsche. Even my dyed-in-wool, all-hating Corvette enthusiast friend says 'not bad'.  The headlights pop up and lay flush when off, this being one of the last production cars from the pop-up era. The roof of the car has a subtle dip running along the centerline from front to back. The hood and sides are gently but noticeably sculpted and the overall effect is reminiscent of European supercars. The door handles are moved up beside the window glass. The front chin spoiler and rear wing add a nice touch, but the front chin spoiler is easy to scrape on driveway aprons and curbs. Fortunately the clearance is enough to handle most speedbumps without roughing. There is no significant trim on the sides, which makes door dings and other incidental abuse more apparent.

Maintenance and Reliability

This car is known for pricey maintenance. It is a fair statement, but knowledgeable and diligent owners can avoid living horror stories. The reduced reliability can generally be blamed on the powerful twin turbos of the 3rd gen which are not found on the long-lasting earlier RX-7s and later RX-8s. An indifferent or ignorant owner or buyer will be in for a costly surprise, unlike most cars which have some level of forgivness to mild abuse. Unfortunately, detailed maintenance wasn't available when the car was new, so the 3rd Gen RX-7 has a reputation for terrible reliability - enough to have crushed its sales numbers after the 1993 sales year. Fortunately now the Internet offers any owner access to knowledge and tools that did not exist when this reputation was first forged.

The engine is a hot little beast with a 'rats nest' of vacuum lines and hoses controlling the turbochargers and emissions system.  There are a number of parts that fail within the lifetime of the car due to the extreme underhood heat - solenoids, vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, and wiring can cause problems and be expensive to fix.  Many owners and rotary garages advocate the installation of some non-stock parts with the intent of reducing temperatures, and I agree with them.  Coolant and oil levels must be maintained and oil changes should never (ever!) wait longer than 3000 miles. The pre-catalytic converter is commonly replaced with a downpipe because it can roast the engine as the pre-cat slowly clogs. Be careful if the car you're considering does not have any catalytic converters - an unrestrictive straight pipe can affect turbo boost levels, greatly increase exhaust noise and odor, and prevent the car from passing emissions tests.

Proper warm-up and cool-down is vital to maintaining the engine and turbos - at least 5min of easy driving before pushing enough to engage the turbos. After hard driving ensure there is a few minutes of running easy (preferably not parked) to draw the excess heat out of the block. Ensure the boost levels are where they should be at 10psi - neither higher nor lower. The boost pattern is the most telling test of the complex twin-turbo control system, which is why an add-on boost gauge is so valuable.

Engine rebuilds - the past 15 years has shown that most original engines find their way to the shop for a rebuild between 60k and 90k.  Some find their way over 100k, but not many.  The turbos typically last about 100k as well.  Keep in mind a few things when shopping: 1) most FDs now have a rebuilt engine 2) a rebuilt engine, if done properly, can be more durable than original, 3) modifications made to keep the engine cooler can make it last longer than the first engine did.  But above all, the life of your engine depends on the quality of the rebuild work and the way in which it's used. 


Now, on to the special things a potential buyer and owner need to know about this car. First, a rotary engine cannot tolerate, even for a short time, overheating or running lean under heavy load. If you suspect a coolant leak, you must shut down the engine immediately. Because of its array of internal seals and layered block construction, the rotary reacts differently to overheating than a piston engine, and repairing an overheated engine usually means rebuilding it. Running the car too hard before its warmed up can warp the blocks and expose the engine seals to destructive heat, and lean conditions cause detonation (pinging - only a considered a nuisance in piston engines) that destroys the apex seals on the rotors. Regular fuel filter replacement, quality high-octane gasoline, and keeping the gas tank above 1/4 full are vital to avoiding accidental lean fuel supply. The overheating concern is made worse because the stock temperature gauge does not move away from normal until the moment overheating has already begun. It is a wise idea to upgrade to more accurate oil and coolant temperature gauges, and add a turbo boost gauge. The stock water temp gauge can also be rewired to provide earlier warning.

It is very common to find RX-7s for sale with major problems, and perhaps just as common the seller will not disclose or understand them. An engine with broken apex seals usually appear obvious as shaking and smoking since the engine is firing in an unbalanced manner and the engine will lack power and not idle. An engine with coolant or oil o-ring failure are leakage between exhaust, coolant, or oil systems. The engine may run ok but it will smoke at times and consume coolant or oil for a period before performance begins to show. As a buyer guard be sure you don't buy a car with bad coolant seals.  The buyers guide link explains these symptoms and the tests to measure engine condition. The average budget for repairing a stock engine begins at $3000. Once rebuilt or replaced, the engine can be expected to perform well, but too many buyers have been faced with an engine rebuild immediately after purchase. For a new RX-7 owner, I recommend to buy a car with an engine which will not require a rebuild. It is possible to buy the car with a bad engine for a reduced price and have it fixed immediately, but this is probably best left to experienced owners who can be certain the engine is the only item requiring attention.

There are several aftermarket modifications that can make the RX-7 a more reliable and slightly more powerful car. Modifications can make the car more reliable, more powerful, or both.  If you find a car with power mods (changes to the intake, exhaust, or turbos), consult an RX-7 knowledgeable source to ensure the configuration is correct. Significant power increases can reduce engine life, even if done properly.  Improperly applied modifications can risk the engine destructing suddenly. See the buyers guide for details.

I must now add a mention a new way to add reliability to a 3rd Gen RX-7: water injection.  Aftermarket companies are now offering relatively easy-to-install systems that injector water or a water-methonal mix into the engine, with such precise control that driveability is not affected.  While water and methanol injection are not new, the refinement and affordability of these systems are.  This solves several problems that have been fought for years in this engine.  1) your engine internal temps run much lower, allowing the life of the engine to increase 2) the internals get a continous steam-cleaning, and clean rotary engines internals last longer and wear better 3) the injected water cools the engine right where the heat is created, reducing the thermal load on everything under the hood.  While this may sound very unconventional, water injection systems legitimately promise to shatter the reliability limitations of this car with no more inconvenience than keeping a water tank full.  If you are shopping for an FD or own one already, I highly recommend you follow the ongoing development of auxiliary injection systems for this car.

If you decide to purchase an RX-7, go to the RX-7 Club Forum and read the archived and 'sticky' information aimed at new users. There is a lot of great information at your fingertips and also links to many other loaded RX-7 sites. RX-7 owners agree - you can't be too careful or too well-read when buying your first one.

The current RX-7 Buyers' Guide
www.robrobinette.com/buyaused.htm
- required reading for any prospective buyer

The RX-7 Club Forum
www.rx7club.com
- for information on modifications, maintenance, and discussion - but please read the 3rd gen FAQ and search the forum archives first to get your answers faster and to avoid creating repeat topics

Nopistons Forum
www.nopistons.com
- another RX-7 forum

Amount Paid (US$): 18000
Condition: Used
Model Year: 1994
Model and Options: R-2 5 Speed, Vintage Red