Please do not buy any 93-96 Chrysler products or for any year. I have a 95 Concorde with 90k miles that is the worst reliability of any car, I have ever experienced. Every time it goes to the shop it is a $400 bill later.
There are many major and or TSB recalls for this year range.
1. Steering rack. Tie rod bolts sheered off causing extermely dangerous situation. Rack and bolts replaced
2. Suspension control arms (lower) recall replaced
3. Trans mount TSB (I think) replaced
4. Major, major, (worst) transmission problems. You must use "special" Chrysler transmission fluid, and filter. Midas did not use the "special" fluid, and caused the transmission to not shift, limp-mode, hard shift. Dealer replaced fluid ok. Check that the TCM is flashed to latest firmware
5. Engine: Hard starting: No starting: Crank and cam sensor replaced. New spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new air filter, new fuel filter, new coil pak, new TPS. Checked fuel pressure: OK, checked MAP sensor OK, tried starting in park, neutral switch seems good: OK, air filter clean new: OK, coil pak getting +B good volts OK. Finally a used PCM (computer) from junkyard seems to fix the second hard starting issue.
6. Brake light switch sometimes comes out of holder, causing lights to stay on. Re-set in holder.
7. Climate control head: Failure would cause front defrost on high, regardless of temp. Replaced control head with a junkyard unit.
8. recall for transmission gear selector: Dealer replaced
9. Leaks AC coolant, must be charged every season. Living in a cold climate no real need for AC
10. Engine chatter on valve train. Have not yet adjusted
11. Front-end makes a squaking noise over turns or bumps. Have heard that the rubber sub-frame bushing mounts need lubed.
12. Engine seems to be using about 1 qt per 500 - 800 miles. No visible smoke, or leaking
13. Car tends to over-heat, so switch to a 180 degree or colder thermo-stat
14. Driver's side, power window control switches. The one for the passenger side will not roll up the passenger side window. Use the passenger side power window switch
15. Lug nuts: Chrysler had the bright idea of putting a tin cover over the lug nuts. One of the tire shops really tightened the lug nuts with their impact. In order to get the lug nut off, needed a cheater bar, and hammer on a cheapie socket because the tin cover was rounded. Go to the junkyard and get several handfuls of good 12 x 1.5 mm nuts without the stupid tin cover.
16. Power steering soleniod that attaches to the steering rack (gear) when replacing the rack, broke the wire connector so a new dealer unit was $170, a junkyard was $1.
17. Rims: The tire shop's tire mounting eq, caused a small pin hole in the rim which caused the tire to go flat. A patch with JB Weld fixed it.
18. Uses expensive "special" OEM 16inch tires
19. Do not drive on the spare tire. Do not hit any hard bumps, do not hit any curbs, do not go on any dirt roads, be careful over speed bumps. Why? Because it will cause the steering rack bolts, and or unit to break. Unit was way, way, way under-designed for the weight of the car. The steering unit is very, fragile, one hard hit and it will break the steering rack bolts, and you cannot steer the car. A very major, major issue.
20. Rubber inside door moulding is coming un-done. Some liquid nails fix.
21. Fuel filter, uses a "special" quick disconnect fitting. Without the "special" tool you can easily ruin the fitting. I of course, broke the fitting, so I hack-sawed off the fitting, and slipped over a piece of hose.
22. Tie-rod ends, and ball joints are very, very weak. See item 19. Dealer replaced
23. Inside engine bay the passenger's side firwall. For some reason the main wiring harness pak, does not have a dust cover so dirt and stuff can get in the wiring.
24. The PCM is mounted under the air cleaner (air filter) housing, with funky 3/8 bolt head size, and pin push. Oh they mounted the PCM is an "great" spot under the air filter, where dirt, and mud from the wheel, and fender can get all over it. Some cars the PCM is inside, interior.
25. The power door locks, button mounting is weak, a hard push with a finger in and the door lock is pushed inside the door.
26. Cassette player never did work
27. The radiator lower hose, and clamp are super fun to remove. If you are going to replace the hoses get the wire clamp, tool, instead of trying to use pliers.
28. The water pump is starting to leak near the mount. Not sure what that is all about.
29. It uses funky belts. One is an old V-belt, the other a serpentien? Why two different types of belts.?
30. The battery hold down tray. The hold down bolt can easily strip. Get a universal hold down.
31. It loves gas. The car has poor gas mileage. Again puny 3.3 L to pull a huge boat of a car. Very under-powered
32. The TPS is a little hard to replace, you need (I think a tork 15) but it is at an weird angle so you cannot get a straight on. Go to the junkyard, and get several handfuls of TPS, air control, cam, crank, sensors.
33. When you replace the steering gear, please replace all of the hoses. Do not go cheap, because the presure one will fail shortly after. I made that mistake.
34. Get to know the "magic" key sequence. on-off-on-off-on to check for DTCs. Because you cannot buy a cheap after-market code reader. For 93 - 96? Chrysler uses a "special" code reader, scanner. Do not go to Checkers and buy their after-market scanner "code reader system" because it is just a stupid $30 book that says use: On-off-on-off, and a few common codes that you can pull from the Internet. You need to get either a DRB II (oh take out a second mortgage on your house first, because those are pricey, and hard to find), or either an Enhanced 4000 Monitor or of course the DRB III (if you are Bill Gates dough) Only those (DRB, or Enhanced) will read transmission codes, engine codes, body codes etc. The stupid "magic" key sequence is pretty useless.
You can of course take it to the dealer who charges $100 per hour labor (I am in the wrong profession), for $100 diag "just-to-look-at-it" because the dealer has the special DRB II, DRB III code readers.
These cars are before ODB II, and CAN, so Chrysler used their own computer interface system.
35. When the transmission goes into limp-mode, it means it will not shift out of second gear. That is so awesome, it saves the transmission wow! So you are going down the highway, in limp-mode at 4500-5000 RPM that does not generate any heat now does it. How does that save the transmission? Before hand install the coldest thermo-stat When it goes into limp-mode, do not drive on any highway, or any road over 40 MPH. Of too, get the transmission fluid flushed by the dealer, and the TCM programmed updated too! That is almost $200 for a flush.
36. Worst in snow! If you live anywhere that gets snow, please, please, please get studded, heavy duty snow tires. This car does not have Trac-lok, so you guessed it, only one wheel spins when you are stuck.
37. Hard to find rims, and center rim cap. If the tire shop looses your center rim, go to the junkyard and get several center rim caps.
38. The CV half shaft end. When you remove the tire, the nut that holds the rotor hub on the spindle, does not have a dust cap, so you guessed it, it rusts. Clean and paint the end of the treads.
39. Cheap driver's side inside door handle.
40. Super fun, tons of work space behind the intake mainfold between the firewall (near MAP). When either replacing the steering rack use a swallow from Snap-on 15 mm socket to torque the steering rack bolts, because a normal socket is to tall. Oh when you replace the steering rack, please use the new bolts and torque to the specs, and bend those great awesome tabs over so that the bolts do not back out (or use locite red). Oh too when replacing the spark plug wires you will never figure out how they squeezed them near the MAP in the back, so just lay them over the intake.
41. The oil filter is really easy to get to. (NOT)
42. It uses 2 O2 sensors why?
43. Remember the pressure power steering hose has different sizes one each end, do not make the mistake I did and try to get it on. (Homer Simpson) Du Hu
44. Do you lover the dealer? Then you will really like taking it in for the weirdest of problems.
45. When you replace the steering gear have the alignment done.
46. Find a really good junkyard with a good selection of these cars, and start a spare parts collection. Get several climate control units (those seem to go quickly), gets several good lug nuts, get several of the sensors, and maybe even pickup a few PCMs. Oh get a lot of TPS. Do you like collecting? Start a new hobby and collect spare Chysler parts. Oh might as well just get a couple cars as spare parts car. Did I say find a really good junkyard, or several junkyards?
47. Oh use grease on the lug studs, and where the rim touches the hub, because they will rust on, and you have to really yank the wheel off. Alumiminm (cannot spell), and metal hubs are two dis-similiar metals, and they will bond to each other. Get some anti-seaze Locite and put it on every single bolt, to make the installation easier.
48. Did I say that this is a heavy, heavy, and big car? It is. It is almost as long as a full 3/4 ton extended cab, 8 foot bed truck. It is a boat.
49. The worst turning radius. Do not try U-turns. Please do not try U-turns, not unless you have 40 acres to turn it around.
50. The super deep cup holders NOT. The cup holders in the center console are cheap.
51. The windsheild wipers never really clean even with new wipers. The arms are kind-of funky to press on, and the hose for the washer fluid tubing is always too short.
52. If you are going to buy or keep this car please get the service manual from the dealer it cost around $60 bucks, and then spend hours, and hours researching the problems on the Internet, go to the forums, and Google all of the problems these cars have.
53. If you are going to buy or keep any of these cars get the DRB II or III code reader, or at least a Snap-on, Matco equal? Because the stupid "magic" key sequence is useless to count flashes? Oh lame!
54. Did you hear the Chrysler (late Feb 07) is laying off 14,000 people? Also what about talks that GM may buy Chrysler? How many people are Toyota, and Honda laying off? Aren't they opening new plants Toyota in the US for more jobs? I just read that Toyota is opening some new plants in MISS or AZ? What does that say about Chysler? Do you remember the 80s and Lee Iacoca (spelling), how the government bailed them out? Hmmm, Hmmm
I have either owned, or known people that have owned the following makes, models, years etc, and never experienced has many problems as this Chysler is or has:
1988 Ford Taurus 140k (bad tranny, but at least it started everytime) (I think I will call this Concorde a Ford or a Yugo)
1999 Silverado 90k it is a underpowed truck but it starts everytime, no issues (it blows in the snow 2WD)
1992 Mazada Protege' 150K+ starts every time (the most realiable car) no issues, except my sister beats it to death. It has been rolled, smashed into parking lights, jumped, four-wheeled, etc, and it runs, and runs. (Oh at the junkyard you do not see many Mazdas)
1990 Buick 192k starts everytime no issues
1970 Chevy 150k engine smokes like a cemeny but starts everytime no issues
1982 Olds huge boat starts everytime no issues (crappy emissions issues thanks to the 80s)
1994 Saturn sedan (neighboors' car) starts no trans issue
1997 Honda Accord has a billion, zillon miles, and goes, and goes, and goes
Toyota Camry has almost 350k miles, and goes, and goes, and goes
1983 Olds Cutlass 3.8L starts no issues
1981 Cad Eldorado (crappy knocky engine) but starts everytime
1970 Mail Jeep starts everytime no issues
Subrau Outback, co-worker has one, that goes, and goes, and goes, it loves the snow.
The only thing nice I have to say is, it rides nice, and is comfy.
In summary, if you have are thinking about getting this car, or are getting one for free because you inherited it, or you have one of these cars, please get rid of it, sell it. Get yourself either a Toyota, Honda, Mazda, or Subura. Never ever buy any Chrysler, Dodge, products. Not unless you have a 1970 Cuda, then it is a different story.
Amount Paid (US$): 7500
Condition: Used
Model Year: 1995
Model and Options: Concorde