(Not only does this review not cover the wine I have linked it to, it does not do so twice. Because there is no link on this site to David Bruce wines, and because Stonehouse linked his own review of the 1998 David Bruce Sonoma Pinot Noir to this link, I shall follow suit and post on the 98 Sonoma Pinot and the 1998 David Bruce Central Coast Pinot Noir.)

Several weeks ago I received a rather "exhilarated" email from Stonehouse who had just returned home from a wild party on Key West accompanied by a new lover: David Bruce's 1998 Sonoma Pinot Noir. Did I know the name? Was it a consistent and reputable California Pinot producer? Had he fallen for a winner?

Yes, Yes, and Yes.

I immediately recalled Dr. Bruce, a gentle and genteel soul, pouring his ruby colored offerings into my tipped glass under the hot and crowded Tasting Tent in the Park at the 1997 Telluride Wine Festival. I liked his wine; I liked his dignified and understated labels; and I liked his dignified and understated personal style.

The winery's web site (http://www.davidbrucewinery.com) is currently undergoing a renovation, but this from wine today.com:

"David Bruce Winery
Location:ÊUnited States: California: Santa Cruz Mountains
Wines Produced: Chardonnay, Petite Syrah, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel
Production: 20,000 cases annually

The winery specializes in Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Pinot Noir.
In 1961, Dr. David Bruce, a dermatologist and wine enthusiast, was influenced by the fine wines produced from Santa Cruz Mountain grapes by the legendary Martin Ray. Bruce purchased 40 acres near Los Gatos, and over the next three years, cleared the land, built a house and small winery, and planted 25 acres of terraced hillside vineyards, divided between five varieties."

As the elegant and minimalist, regal label proclaims with the date around the crest - "David Bruce Winery was bonded in 1964."

David Bruce currently offers 10 different Pinot Noir selections. Stonehouse loved the 1998 Sonoma so much he subliminally influenced me to grab a bottle over in Durango recently. I was thrilled and surprised to find it in stock, along with the lower priced 98 David Bruce Central Coast Pinot Noir. I have been coveting the 1998 Russian River Pinot Noir because the Russian River Valley appellation of Sonoma is probably my favorite California Pinot growing region, but the $34 price tag takes a lot of justification and rationalization until I could at least verify that the less pricey pair are to my liking.

Here is what I found in the 1998 David Bruce Central Coast Pinot Noir, made from grapes grown in Monterey and San Luis Obispo County vineyards:

The wine was quite a deep red in the glass, and while I would not call it "cloudy", per se, I did wonder if it was an unfiltered bottling.

It was a bit light and tight in nose. I was not impressed, but not discouraged.
The very first sip brought a smile to my face as visions of milk chocolate covered cherries danced in my head.
A bundle of wonderfully tart red berries and cherries spread out over my palate with sip number two. A tiny hint of coffee/tea/cola notes and all the tart red fruits lingered on the finish.

This is delicate and light Pinot, yet very balanced and smooth. It presents very soft oak, and very mild tannins. There are no rough edges or a single dominating component to be found.
It comports itself with an understated elegance that is very refreshing and satisfying, especially in the absence of food. Dr. Bruce maintains it will continue to improve and develop over the next 5 years if properly cellared.

Is this one worth the $20 ($17.25 after discounts) retail tag when contrasted with the 98 Sonoma Pinot?

I just had to know...

The 98 Sonoma Pinot carries a price tag of nearly $27 in these here parts. (I've seen it for far less, however, on a few wine retailer web sites and in various newsletters.) The fruit in this one comes from Sonoma vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Chalk Hill appellations.

The in-glass appearance was nearly identical to what I recall of the Central Coast offering. Too bad I didn't assess them side by side.

The nose was far more fruit and alcohol-filled (13.5% Sonoma, 13% Central Coast). The Sonoma fruit was of a darker variety such as blackberries and boysenberries, and I would concur with Stonehouse in applying the plummy/jammy descriptors. A subtle spice back up exists of the cinnamon/nutmeg/allspice persuasion.

Wow
I literally proclaimed: WOW upon first sip, and "meaty" instantly came to mind along with other words such as: "smoky, toasty, gamey, deep dark fruit, leather, tobacco". This is an intensely concentrated wine when compared to the near ethereal fruity lightness found in the Central Coast grape blend. There's a bit of a sharp mineral kick on the aftertaste along with the smoky nuance that actually hits my palate on the upper back portion of the roof of my mouth. Something about this sensation is a bit irritating. An aroma floats up with more tasting that reminds me of eucalyptus, and in all honesty, these aren't some of my personal favorite characteristics to find in a Pinot.

Personally, I think this one needs time to smooth out, settle down, deepen and mellow. Dr. Bruce again suggests we give it five years or so to "evolve". I plan to do just that with a few more bottles. I also suspect this offering mandates the presence of substantial flesh foods to be fully enjoyed (along with a racous Key West party), whereas the 98 Coastal Pinot was fabulous as a sipper sans snacks. A testing of the Sonoma Pinot with some hard white cheeses only sharpened the wine, almost thinning and flattening it out.

Dr. Bruce in Prognosis

All in all, the 98 Sonoma Pinot is an interesting offering, and I can understand why it so appeals to my friend, Stonehouse. I'll buy a few bottles to save until next Winter. For easy and pleasing drinking right now today, if I find the 98 or 99 (new release) Central Coast Pinot bearing a $15 price tag, I will surely stock up.

But I know me. I will not be denied. There will be no resting until I have procured the 1998 David Bruce Russian River Pinot Noir.

Look for this respected and noteworthy producer. Sample a few of his offerings. God knows there's sure to be something for everybody in this extensive and diverse portfolio.





Recommended: Yes