For a few dollars more than five-dollar throwaway Astis such as Tosti and Martini & Rossi, one can buy Mondoro Asti, a wine that outclasses them in every way.

Much more care is taken in the production of Mondoro than for most bulk-process sparkling wines. High-quality grapes are given a soft pressing and allowed to sit for a day or so and spontaneously ferment before being centrifuged, filtered, and further fermented. This allows for full expression of the character of the highly aromatic Muscat grape.

The result is a straightforward, off-dry sparkler, generously bubbly, with a full Muscat nose evocative of orange-blossom honey and a concentrated apricot and Niagara grape flavor. A bit of tartness combined with the extra acidity contributed by carbonation keep the sugar from becoming overwhelming, although there's no getting away from the sweetness.

Like most off-dry Muscats, Mondoro Asti goes well with dessert, especially with angel food, king cake, and the like. It pairs adequately with chocolate-flavored dishes, but not nearly as well as true dessert wines.

Being the rare wine that can stand up to cranberry sauce and rich casseroles at the same time, Mondoro is a good choice for the holiday table, and a natural one if ham is being served; Asti and ham ought to be a classic pairing. It also goes well with the same spicy foods that call for an off-dry Gewürztraminer. Of course, anything acidic will make it taste like soda pop, and it will seem insipid if paired with red meat.

At 7% A.B.V., Mondoro is a suitable choice for midday toasts, brunches, and office lunch parties. Keeping a bottle on hand on New Year's Eve for the folks who don't like brut Champagne might not be a bad idea, either.

Recommended: Yes

Year: Non-Vintage
Winery Name: Mondoro
Varietal: Sparkling Wine
Designation: Asti DOCG
Country: Italy
State or Region: Piedmont
County or Appellation: Asti DOCG
Price: 10
Wine Rating Scale: Better than most