The 1998 Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc elsewhere) is another big, classy wine from one of Napa Valley's finest wineries. Robert Mondavi Wineries released their first wines in 1966 (I think) and I have been drinking them since 1970 or so. They have always been well crafted, very drinkable wines that have (generally) lived in the mid-range of California wine prices.

I mentioned in an earlier review that I have been a fan of Mondavi's red Cabernet's since the early 70's. While working on this review I meant to address the fact that Mondavi's Fume Blanc is my wife's favorite bottle of wine. A few synapses (that's about all that remain) got together and ratched out a memory that my ex's favorite wine was Mondavi's Muscato di Canelli and that she actually gave me my first glass of Mondavi wine. I'm not sure if this means anything but feel the necessity to recognize my aging brain when it does something that approximates thought.

The wine is sold in an attractive "frosted" bottle. I wonder if this has anything to do with the fact that the wine is bottled unfiltered. A trip to Mondavi's website doesn't list this release yet, only that there will be a new look for 2000, maybe this is part of it. Enough of this errata, on to the wine.

The wine is a pleasant light yellow in the glass. A swirl and a sniff yields a bold fruit presence that elicits memories of bottles of this fine wine drank over the past 20 plus years. This is what sauvignon should smell like. A taste is rewarding in that the fruit present in the nose carries through onto the mouth. A very slight hint of oak, lemon and pears marries with the fruit in its journey across my tongue. I would characterize this as a "Bold" white wine. It announces its varietal heritage cleanly and pleasantly. I really like this wine.

We drank the wine with Chicken Cordon Bleu, asparagus and pasta with a kiss of the sauce from the chicken. It was an extremely nice compliment to the meal. When a bottle of wine stirs this many memories across the dinner table from your wife of 22 years, they'd best be good memories. These were.

I'd suggest the wine with any chicken or fish dish, or alone. It is a very "conversational" wine. It is 12.5% alcohol but has a very "big" presence that one might expect from a wine with a lot more alcohol. It is a pleasantly typical Mondavi wine; well thought through, excellent fruit, good craftsmanship in the making. I bought this bottle at Safeway for $11 and it is a steal at that price. One hopes that the new Mondavi will carry along the fine wines produced to date. Sweetpaulie suggests you give this 1998 Robert Modavi Fume Blanc a try. It is always a pleasure to add another fine wine to your list. I believe that if you try this one it will show up on your table a few more times this new millenium. Happy New Year!!!!




Recommended: Yes