Heaven in a bottle: 1990, 1996, 1997 Suduiraut Sauternes
Written: Dec 05 '00 (Updated Jan 17 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Exotic and delicious
Cons: Price
The Bottom Line: Delicious but needs a few years
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| bdolcourt's Full Review: Suduiraut Sauternes 1997 |
I hate white wine. I’ll say that again, just so that everything is clear. I hate white wine. So why on earth would I write an opinion on Sauternes [pronounced Sew-Turn] then? Very simple: a fine Sauternes is unlike any style of wine I have ever consumed. My roommate described it as “sex in [his] mouth.” While that might be a little extreme, I can see why someone would say that. Drinking fine Sauternes for the first time is quite an experience.
What is Sauternes?
Sauternes is a region of Bordeaux, made up of five smaller regions. This area is known for making premier dessert wines. The wine produced in this region is made from the Semillon grape, often mixed with Sauvignon Blanc. Personally, I find most Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc quite unremarkable. I can’t say the same for Sauternes. To turn those loser grapes into a powerful wine, requires a secret ingredient: mold.
Botrytis cinerea, also known as the “noble rot” is a fungus that infects grapes in this region. Instead of destroying the harvest, Botrytis causes the grapes to shrivel, while at the same time, imparting a unique flavor to the grape. To produce this wine, the grapes are left on the vine late into the season so that they can develop maximal sweetness, maximal flavor, and can be infected by the rot. The shriveled grapes are then hand picked and, what little liquid is left, squeezed from the grape, yielding a juice that is very concentrated and very sweet: the essence of the grape. The final result is a very concentrated, fruity, syrupy wine that is high in alcohol and very sweet. The grapes have a low yield, leaving a rare, expensive wine that is the perfect way to end a meal.
Notable names in Sauternes are Chateau d’Yquem and Chateau Rieussec. Wines which cannot carry the Sauternes appellation are often called Late Harvest Botrytis Semillon.
While, officially, this is a review of the 1997 Chateau de Suduiraut Sauternes, since there is no category for earlier years, I thought I would compare it to 2 other Suduiraut vintages.
The Wines!
1997
1997 was one of the better years for Sauternes. The vintage as a whole received a 92 from the Wine Spectator and is regarded as one of the best years in the last decade.
The ’97 Suduiraut is a golden colored wine that is slightly viscous. It has an aroma of apricots with a touch of vanilla. The wine is sweet, but not as sweet as other Sauternes I have tasted. The predominant flavor is apricots and honey with a moderate Botrytis flavor. The wine finishes slightly sweet, with fruit, however I found the flavor very subdued.
This is a very nice Sauternes. The problem is that it is very young. Sauternes, when properly stored, develop flavor for fifty or more years. This one hasn’t been in a bottle for more than 2. It needs to sit. I was disappointed in the lack of Botrytis flavor, but I have been spoiled by the ’90. In the next 5 or 10 years, it will develop the deep caramel color that is characteristic of the style and the sweetness will start to come out. I would have preferred a fruiter nose, but that is minor. Overall, buy this one to hold. I’m guessing that you won’t be disappointed in a few years. I picked up a few 750 ml bottles for $36, but usually it costs about $68 a bottle.
The Spectator gave this wine a 90, describing flavors of cream and caramel in addition to those I tasted. 4 and change on the Epinions wine scale.
1990
’90 was good year in Sauternes; the vintage receiving an 89 as a whole. This vintage turned out quite a few very extraordinary wines. The ’90 Chateau de Suduiraut is one of those wines.
The wine is a beautiful, deep caramel color. The wine is slightly thinner than honey and has a mildly spicy aroma. The noble rot did a number on this one. The wonderful botrytis flavor abounds and hits the palate all the way through. This wine is so sweet it is like drinking honey. It actually seems to coat the tongue and throat. Predominantly, the wine tastes of fig and toffee (along with botrytis). The finish is long and sweet, consisting mostly of botrytis.
This wine is wonderful. I could drink it day and night. It is very sweet, but perfectly so. The flavors are mild but lasting. I would prefer a stronger aroma, but it is still very nice. Every bottle is worth remembering. I might sound like I am waxing poetically about this wine, but I really do mean it. It is that good. One scary note: while it is a beautiful wine now, this one technically rates as hold. It will only get better in the next 10 years.
Even for Sauternes, this one isn’t cheap. I found full bottles for $96 and I was able to get a few half bottles for exactly half that.
The Wine Spectator gave this one a 95 and I concur. It is a classic and will last long in this century. A 5 on the Epinions wine scale.
1996
It has been several weeks since I tasted this one, so I cannot be as thorough. ’96 was also a fine year in Sauternes, though the ’96 Suduiraut is not as fine a wine as the ’97 or ’90. It is golden in color, has a very strong, fruity aroma and taste, with pleasant sweetness. The finish is very fruity and long lasting. It is a very enjoyable wine.
Most importantly, the ’96 Suduiraut is drinkable now. It doesn’t need to age, though it might get some benefit from a few years. It is also fairly inexpensive. I have routinely found it for $35 for a 500 ml bottle (I have no idea why my wine store carries a 500 ml bottle). While not the best Sauternes I have ever had, the ’96 is a wonderful wine that will leave no one disappointed. At $35, it is certainly a best buy for the quality. I'd give it a 4 on the Epinions wine scale.
Serving Notes
I am often asked by my friends, what to serve with Sauternes. Personally, I prefer to drink it by itself. All of the above wines can stand alone as dessert. If you want to serve food with them, serve something that can stand up to and complement the rich flavors and sweetness of the Sauternes. Try a rich dessert that is not very sweet, or even slightly tart. For the daring, try the classic pairing of Sauternes with foie gras (though I wouldn’t have that for dessert). Remember that sweet cuts through spice and fat. Don’t be afraid to try something unusual. The Sauternes can take it. The worst thing that might happen is that the Sauternes will overpower the food. If that happens, who really cares: this is big wine and should be the star of any show.
If you like Sauternes, consider trying a Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese. TBAs are made via a similar process using a Riesling grape. While I haven’t yet sampled a TBA, finding a good one is next on my list.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
bdolcourt
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Member: Bram Dolcourt
Location: Valhalla, NY
Reviews written: 33
Trusted by: 36 members
About Me:
After graduating in Chemistry from Brandeis and a short EMS career, I'm a Medical Student.
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