Phenomena evades notice at the Sainte Claire—until now
Written: Mar 01 '05 (Updated Aug 29 '06)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Haunted, historical landmark, beautiful restoration work done throughout whole building
Cons: Some people have little appreciation of bygone times and will always prefer the Fairmont
The Bottom Line: Absolutely fantastic and full of character for anyone who enjoys historical hotels, but go somewhere else if looking for cookie-cutter modern luxury.
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| adriennefoster's Full Review: Hyatt Sainte Claire Hotel |
Growing up in San Jose, California, I was always fascinated by the Hyatt Sainte Claire. I had been told it was once so grand that U.S. presidents and movie stars had stayed there. It was a focal point of San Jose's social life from its opening in the 20s until the 50s. By the time the 60s had rolled around, the Sainte Claire had already begun its decline and it would become much worse before it found some TLC. Perhaps even in my childhood I was already intrigued by the possibility it might have ghosts. I had been wanting to become better acquainted with the building and its background for a long time. Then, as I was reading a 2003 review for the Sainte Claire on TripAdvisor, I found some confirmation of my suspicions. Amongst the user's other complaints was that its third and sixth floor was haunted. I found no professional documentation recording its phenomena. When the San Jose America festival took place a couple of blocks away last July, the convenience of staying there on fireworks night was a great excuse for learning more about the hotel. I found the staff quite receptive and friendly and really enjoyed the glimpse into my hometown's past.
The site where the Sainte Claire stands was originally developed as an industrial one. For 70 years, Market and San Carlos was the location of a large brick building that housed the Eagle Brewing Company. When Thomas S. Montgomery bought the property in 1923, the brewery had been closed four years before when the Prohibition bill was enacted. After finding all the financial support he required and demolishing the first building, construction began in 1925 and the Hotel Sainte Claire opened October 16, 1926. Between the $750,000 construction cost and the $250,000 it took to equip and furnish the building, it was known as San Jose's "Million Dollar Hotel." Among some of its high profile guests during its heyday were Judy Garland, Clark Gable, Eleanor Roosevelt, Joe DiMaggio, and Bob Hope. It was also John F. Kennedy's choice during his 1960 Presidential campaign. By that time, however, suburb mania had taken hold and residents who opted to live away from the center of town gravitated to the new Valley Fair and Town & Country shopping centers at Stevens Creek and Winchester. Along with many other grand hotels that originally opened during the Roaring 20s, the 70s was the decade of the Sainte Claire's nadir. It had dissipated into a seedy hovel that supplied low income accommodations for senior citizens. The city's porno district was only a few blocks away, starting around First and Reed. Downtown San Jose went derelict, with the Sainte Claire as the clearest example. According to my mother, who was also born and raised in San Jose, the loss of retail trade had more to do with the growing standardization of automobile use than its deterioration, even though modernization is always attractive. Parking was just too darn difficult. Urban renewal began in the 80s after many locals complained about the blight of the downtown area and it has gradually recovered some of its grandeur. Several buildings have been torn down and replaced by modern ones, while others, such as the Sainte Claire, were refurbished. The hotel's first round was started in 1980 when Stephen Lin, a local developer, bought the hotel. He restored the public areas of the lower floors, but paid little attention to its rooms. During Lin's leadership, it was connected to the Hilton chain. His noble effort proved premature, as many people were still reticent about spending time downtown, especially after the LeBaron and Red Lion Inn opened. The Sainte Claire closed from 1988 to 1992. In 1991, it found a savior in Manou Mobedshahi, who was intent on restoring the hotel's elegance. Little expense was spared researching and refurbishing its historical fabric as well as bringing its amenities up to date. When the Hyatt chain expressed interest in selling franchises, Mobedshahi made the Sainte Claire its first.
Although I had long been curious about the Sainte Claire, nothing prompted me to actually go inside until the 1980s. Programming had been scheduled there for the San Jose Film Festival and I wanted to see what guests Christopher Lee and Harlan Ellison had to say. As I sat there, the spooky vibes started to hit me, although they were nowhere as strong as the ones I had previously experienced at the LeBaron. After reading the TripAdvisor review, I was reminded of that visit. Some time last year I took a meal at its restaurant, Il Forniao, then asked if anyone knew anything about the ghosts. I was pleased that the young men at the front desk were willing to talk to me about it. They had little to tell me, but were definitely receptive. In the past, they encountered a prospective guest or two who walked out again after saying something about ghosts. They had also said past visitors claimed they felt things around the hallways of the sixth floor. Once a rollaway bed with a pillow had been found on the roof. After asking the entire staff, no one had any knowledge of how or why it was put there. It's likely there is an earthly explanation for that occurrence somewhere, but that anecdote was enough to make me want to spend more time at the Sainte Claire.
My Sainte Claire experience
As the July Fourth holiday loomed up, I logged on to the Hyatt website to see what rates the Sainte Claire was asking. Since I planned on seeing the fireworks at Discovery Meadow, it seemed the best excuse to stay a hotel that was only a 10-15 minute drive from my home. The traffic congestion after the event is hideous and staying at the Sainte Claire would be very convenient. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the rates were quite reasonable. I also noticed they were more expensive during the week than they were on weekends, indicating the hotel was geared more to the business and convention crowd than people on vacation. However, in order to insure the $79 per night rate, I had to pay in advance. I gave them my Visa number and my reservation was set in stone.
If a car is not absolutely necessary during a guest's stay at the Sainte Claire, it is best to avoid them. Despite improvements, parking in Downtown San Jose is still difficult and visitors should never ignore any signs regarding this matter. The city has scads of meter readers downtown, especially during standard business hours, ready to write tickets for the smallest infractions. I think I've been given around a dozen parking tickets in my life and half of them originated in that area. However, if a guest drives in, the Sainte Claire has only valet parking, which runs $18 per night. Since I know the area fairly well, I chose to park in a lot a block or two away that was free weekends, holidays, and after 6 p.m. on weekdays. For those arriving at Minetta San Jose International Airport (SJC), the Sainte Claire has no shuttle of its own. It is on the route of Bauer's San Jose Airport Express, which stops by every 20 minutes on weekdays and 40 minutes on weekends. Rates are $10 one way, $20 for round trip, but discounts are available with a flier that can be found in the Sainte Claire's lobby and presumably the airport.
The lobby is also the foyer and rather small, yet veering to the right just before the elevators visitors can find the magnificently restored lounge. When one thinks of all the abuse this room has taken over the decades, it's amazing how well it looks. Once Prohibition was repealed, the Sainte Claire had little choice about offering liquor if it was going to remain competitive. Originally, a lounge was designated for alcohol consumption on the second floor, but it eventually moved to the main one on the ground level. Mobedshahi brought in specialists to recover the original decor and they found underneath layers of plain paint that the beamed ceiling had predominantly brown, intricately detailed patterns. Also found underneath the layers of "updated" floor covering was beautiful marble tiles, some scarred where the bar had been anchored and a few others that had been shattered over decades and replaced with the best matches the decorators could find. A fully functional wood-burning fireplace maintains the Oriental theme that the hotel opened with and a photo in the women's restroom downstairs documents how it looked during its earlier years. A grand piano is also available for guests' use.
Since Russell had to work that weekend, he would meet up with me later. Checkin was a breeze and I was rather cheered that some of the fellows remembered previously chatting with me. There was no problem finding my reservation. They took an imprint of my credit card for any incidentals that I may charge. Since I had only a couple of small bags, I declined the help of a porter and headed for my room on the sixth. I was amused to note that like the Royal York and the Sir Francis Drake, the Sainte Claire also had a mail slot with a see-through glass mail chute by its elevator. It must have been a very popular trait with posh hotels built during the 20s. Quite a few dressed-up people wandered around the lobby, bobbing in and out of the function rooms, elevators, and staircases. It looked as though a wedding reception was being held there, so the energy level at the hotel was high. Since ghosts generally avoid crowds, my odds of seeing any phenomena were slim.
Room 623 was small by today's standards. Looking back through old newspaper accounts from 1926, they were considered large. If these were big rooms, what was commonly available before the 20s? It had a queen-size bed covered with an ivory bedspread. The window looked out on San Carlos Street and was draped with lace curtains. Nature print art hung on walls decorated with pale marigold textured wallpaper with white trim. The wall-to-wall carpet had a maroon and gold print. The seafoam green print wingback chair was on castors and easy to roll around. A color TV with a remote could be found in the armoire, with drawers for storing clothes underneath it. Instead of drawers to the right of its footwell was a compartment that discreetly contained the minibar, which had snack items that ranged from $1.25 to $6 in prices. For lighting, the room had a lamp each for the floor and desk, as well as a couple of sconces. These may not have been the original furnishings, but they were high quality and in good condition. Guests now need a cardkey to enter rooms via electronic mechanisms, but the brass doorknobs inside the room were the ones originally installed in 1926.
Inside the closet, which was a small square cubicle with the aforementioned knob, several items provided for guest convenience. Among them were a safe, iron with board, luggage rack, full-length mirror, and spare toilet paper.
The bathroom decor was some of the most impressive I've seen in a hotel. It may not have been large, but it was nowhere near as cramped as the dinky one at the Sir Francis Drake. The wooden counter that framed the sink was well shellacked and had lots of clutter. Between that and the small shelf above it, there was a coffeemaker with two mugs and coffee/tea supplies, a hairdryer, tissues, a small canister with cotton balls and swabs, and a soapdish. Also provided was a little bar of Gilchrist & Soames glycerin soap, a shower cap, and lint mitt, which seemed rather skimpy when I was taking my notes. After the chambermaid serviced our room the next day, I found Portico shampoo, verbena soap, lotion, and Gilchrist & Soames conditioner. When I worked as a chambermaid in my youth, housekeepers went from room to room to doublecheck our work after we finished. It made me wonder if they missed doing the QC check before I arrived. Tiles with marigold trim were adhered to the wall for the shower stall. I was told the tiny tiles grouted onto the floor were also rescued original decor, but I would quickly believe that the tub was too. It was huge. I loved it. I took a bubble bath and was able to fully stretch out and submerge my whole body. The nicest touch by far was the mural of a butterfly and the blue sky painted on the ceiling. Also available were thick towels of varied softness and another full-length mirror. The water pressure was a kind of poor, but with all of the encouragement the locale has been given in the past to economize its water because of draughts; it may have been a deliberate move on the part of management.
I'll have to admit the one annoying feature I found staying in room 623 was its thin walls and my noisy neighbors. It sounded like room 621 had two or three kids who were up too late playing.
My reasons for staying there were justified. The San Jose America Festival attracts around 50 thousand people, making it one of downtown's biggest annual events. It's rarely ever problem arriving, but everyone leaves at the same time. The mass of people departing is highly congested as they file out like drones. What a relief it was to walk just a couple of blocks to into a lobby that had hardly anyone in it. However, this hotel is only a few blocks away from some of its most prominent cultural attractions. Discovery Meadow, where the festival was held, is right beside the Children's Discovery Museum. Also within walking distance is the Civic Auditorium, San Jose Museum of Technical Innovation (with an Imax theatre), San Jose Museum of Art, and the Camera 12 cinema. The convention center has a side entrance directly across Market Street. For those interested in pursuing local history, it's a longer walk to the Peralta Adobe (the oldest building in town) and Fallon House can be found behind San Pedro Square. The San Jose Historical Society gives tours of both structures on weekends for donations. The Winchester Mystery House, probably San Jose's most sought after attraction, is by the northbound on-ramp of Highway 280 on Winchester Boulevard and would require arranging transportation. San Jose State University is also within walking distance and is California's oldest institution for higher learning.
Unfortunately, despite the San Jose's effort to attract people downtown again, it hasn't recovered its retail trade. The many office buildings have given the area a business tone and during the days on Saturday and Sunday the streets seem so empty one almost expects a couple of cowboys to appear for a shootout. Visitors looking for more than a Walgreen's or groceries at Zanotto's (on Second Street) will need to venture beyond downtown to do any power shopping. After going through two phases of heavy remodeling, Valley Fair still maintains its status as a favorite with the locals. Town & Country has been demolished and replaced with the upscale Santana Row, which just opened a couple years ago. For outlet shops, the northbound line on the light rail will take visitors to the Great Mall in Milpitas. Other malls within a reasonable driving distance include Eastridge, Oakridge, and Valco.
As for food, Il Forniao handles it all at the Sainte Claire, including the dining room, coffee cloister, and room service. I've often wondered why Italian cuisine was chosen when the old San Jose mainstay, Original Joe's, is right behind them on Second & San Carlos. (It was one of the few businesses that consistently thrived during downtown's slummy years.) Once upon a time, the Sainte Claire accommodated a few shops on its street level. The walls between them have since been torn down turning the floor space into a big dining room for the full-scale restaurant Il Forniao is. Russell and I have paid a few visits and it has a menu with good variety and several daily specials. I liked the butternut squash ravioli and the pork filets with polenta was creative. Both were artfully presented. However, a lot of emphasis is put into its bakery and they do provide an excellent breadbasket with the meal. Although my struggle to lose weight is a vain one, I appreciate that the bread is served with oil and vinegar instead of butter.
For those wanting to leave the hotel for a meal, there are a lot of options within walking distance from the Sainte Claire. The variety and price ranges available are excellent. Downtown has Asian, Mexican, Italian, grills, pub grub, Peruvian, German, and more going from fast food to haut cuisine. Some of the more popular names include P. F. Chang's, Gordon Biersch, Bella Mia, Britannia Arms, and Quizno's. For anyone who cares, the Togo's sandwich chain originated downtown, where in the 70s its customer base was SJSU students. (That store moved to its present location at Paseo de San Antonio.)
Like most 4-star hotels, breakfast is not part of the room rate. The day we checked out, I asked Russell to call in a breakfast order for us and to time the delivery while I was in the shower. I was sufficiently impressed to find it was delivered almost exactly to the minute they said it would be. Our eggs were warm and tasty and served with bread. The small coffee kiosk, which is located right inside the lobby by the front door, is also another good breakfast option for anyone looking for continental style. There is a good variety of pastries to choose from as well as a barista.
Checkout was uncomplicated. Although the Sainte Claire has the express option, I wanted to do it in person. I signed off on my bill and was quite pleased with my weekend.
The ghost stuff
One of the problems with trying to find info on a haunted hotel that has eluded the attention of paranormal investigators is that I was unable to refer to past research on the Sainte Claire. I talked to several members of the staff and acquired a few details on the phenomena. What I learned blew the socks off of anything that occurred at the Wyndham (formerly the LeBaron Hotel).
The lobby and lounge has seen some ghost action over the years. One man refused to work the night shift any longer after he was shoved in the lounge. That was no isolated incident, as later one of the clerks at the registration desk, which is right by the lounge, had a similar experience.
One housekeeper claims that she and a colleague were climbing the staircase when they approached a boy sitting on the steps between the third and fourth levels. He disappeared before their eyes.
Despite what I had been told earlier, most of the activity reported is on the second floor. Not too surprising when one considers that it had been the home of a private club for the Santa Clara University Alumni and its first barroom. Brides and grooms have been seen or heard in room 215, the honeymoon suite.
Unfortunately, with no previous research to consult, the stories that might have led to the Sainte Claire's phenomena can only be conjecture. After almost 80 years, there could be a wide variety of decades it remembers. When past owner Stephen Lin, intent on restoring the hotel's 4-star status, moved the elderly residents out of the Sainte Claire while he was refurbishing it, he ensured each and every one of them had a place to go before they moved out. It's hard to believe they held any resentment toward the management, producing the trauma that frequently binds a spirit to a property. Guests have died while staying there, but every hotel of any longevity has faced this problem at some point.
As for me, my gut feeling when I saw the din of the wedding party, then learned the phenomena was more concentrated on the second floor, proved correct. I witnessed nothing that couldn't be easily explained in this physical world.
The bottom line
The Hotel Sainte Claire is on the National Register of Historical Hotels. It has 171 rooms available to let in the heart of downtown San Jose. Guests can access the fitness and business center available in the basement with their cardkeys. Daily newspapers are available on tables by the elevators on the floors with sleeping rooms. An ATM and vending machines (to make up for not having a gift shop) are available in the basement. Rooms provide cable TVs with remotes and in-room pay movies. The phones have Voicemail with a message light. Sleeping rooms have computer data ports and wireless, high-speed, Internet access. Also available is an AM/FM alarm clock radio, individual climate control, and turn-down service. Please let me reiterate that this hotel also provides hairdryers, which are not to be taken for granted at a historical hotel.
I have a weakness for historical hotels, so my assessment of the Sainte Claire may be kinder than those of someone looking for modern surroundings. I may be even more partial to it since it's in my hometown. As I see it, contemporary 4-star hotels have cookie-cutter decorated rooms and lack the character older ones are usually steeped in. This hotel may have had its low periods, but it's in tip-top condition now and its ornate decor is feast for the eyes. The marketers may be aiming at business travelers, but this is definitely for anyone who appreciates history or fancies a chance meeting with a ghost.
Recommended:
Yes
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