When You Want the Answer to be YES!
Written: Jun 25 '01 (Updated Jun 25 '01)
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: Incomparable service. Amazing food. Floral displays that could win prizes in flower shows.
Cons: Very few. A couple of dishes could have been better, but that's really quibbling.
The Bottom Line: This is the type of dining experience that will have you wondering whether any of their rooms are available after dinner.
|
|
|
| Epicure's Full Review: The White Barn Inn |
....regardless of the question.
We were not celebrating any special occasion, but one look at the dining room of The White Barn Inn made us feel like we should have been. It was one of the most stunningly romantic restaurants that we had ever seen - the type of place that is so sublime that you wouldn't want to spoil it by dining there on a regular basis. No, there should be a certain degree of reverence associated with The White Barn Inn, a restaurant whose very name elicits a gasp of awe from residents of Southern Maine.
We first mentioned our dining plans to the proprietor of the Portland bed-and-breakfast where we were staying. She stared at us for a moment in astonishment (perhaps it was the casual way in which we made reference to the restaurant), and then managed to say "Have you been there before?" No, we shook our heads. "It's like nothing you have ever experienced! Why even in New York City, there's nothing that comes close to The White Barn Inn," she declared with pride. I nodded politely, thinking Poppycock! I've heard this one before.
Later that evening before dinner, we met the proprietor's husband. We asked him for directions to Kennebunkport, and he inquired where we were going. "Ohhh!" He looked startled when we told him. "Have you ever been there? It's really something! We've been there twice in the last ten years. How did you hear of it?" He was suddenly full of questions. Funny, but for some reason I had pegged him as a quiet type of guy, but at the moment, he seemed very animated. To his last question, I almost didn't know how to reply. To tell him that I consider it my duty, my job, my life's work to know of every worthy dining establishment in the country sounded rather eccentric, yet that is the truth of the matter. I decided to keep that little obsession to myself, and told him it was listed in a guidebook. He appeared wistful as we departed. Perhaps he was reminiscing about a past meal.
The clouded skies and heavy rain obscured our view of the idyllic, summer houses of Kennebunkport along Route 35. The White Barn Inn could have easily passed as one of the larger, more luxurious country homes on that route. From the outside, you could hardly tell that this restaurant/inn use to be two spacious barns.
The restaurant's incomparable service is evident from the moment you pull into its circular driveway. Despite the rain, White Barn staff members stood outside with a cannister full of umbrellas, escorting patrons to and from their vehicles. As our car came to a halt, a staff member greeted me cheerfully with an open umbrella. Mr. Epicure received the same treatment. He then walked us to the dining room, personally delivering us into the capable hands of the maitre d'. For me, that gesture by itself distinguished The White Barn Inn from almost every other restaurant that I have visited. The White Barn staff treats you like cherished guests both before and after the meal. You will never experience that feeling of momentary confusion as you look around the hotel, wondering where the restaurant is. In fact, you will never be at a loss for anything while visiting The White Barn Inn. Each staff member is trained to be so attuned to the needs of the guests that it's positively scary.
As we waited for our table, I listened to the beautiful piece being performed by a very talented pianist on a grand piano, located to the right of the entryway. A small group of admirers had gathered around his piano, listening with enraptured expressions. I would have gladly joined them had I not noticed the maitre d' leading us to the dining area.
The dining area left me awestruck. It is in a word - SPECTACULAR! The room is a perfect blend of rustic charm and polished elegance. The wooden beams and triangular-shaped, 30-foot ceilings recall the restaurant's farmhouse origins, but the tapestry fabric-covered chairs, crystal candlestick holders, oil paintings and small metal animal statues that graced each table are clear indications of the restaurant's sophistication and refinement. I happily noted how well-spaced the tables on the first floor were. The second floor was reserved entirely for the display of various antiques and wood carvings.
The crowning glory of the room is without a doubt its view. The center wall is a floor-to-ceiling glass window which looks out on to the most ridiculously beautiful floral display that I have ever seen as part of a dining establishment. I remember attending the Philadelphia Flower Show a few years ago, and being quite impressed by the lavish exhibits there. I would have never expected a restaurant to be able to replicate such a thing, but that is exactly what The White Barn Inn has done. Enormous pots of riotous flowering plants are arranged on the steps and platforms outside the window, so from top to bottom, all you see are flowers. It's like looking at a painting where not an inch of the canvas has been left blank. Illuminated against the opaque skies, the magenta, coral, scarlet-colored flowers were especially dazzling, a veritable explosion of color. I was later told by our server that this floral display changes seasonally, so there is a different one every three months. I would go back just to see the other ones.
The menu at The White Barn Inn is a $77.00 prix fixe for three courses. Diners have their choice among a half-dozen appetizers and a half-dozen main courses. I was pleased to see that the chef incorporated many regional ingredients into his dishes. For example, there were two lobster-based appetizers (a lobster spring roll and a lobster bisque) and a lobster-based main course (steamed lobster nestled on a bed of homemade fettuccine). (Note: You cannot travel to Maine and NOT sample their lobster.) There was also a roasted Maine quail breast and pan seared Diver harvested scallops as appetizers, and a grilled medallion of Maine salmon as a main course. Overall, I would describe the cuisine as contemporary American, which seems to be the fallback for any type of food that doesn't have distinctive ethnic influences, but has some creative, witty little touches.
The restaurant also has some "theme" prix fixe menus. The night we were there, they offered a Local Seafood Menu, a Gourmand Menu and a Vegetarian Menu. After plying our server with a host of various questions, which he answered very knowledgeably, Mr. Epicure and I decided to try the Local Seafood Menu and the Gourmand Menu.
We started with a Pan Seared Spiced Soft-Shell Crab and a Risotto of Local Forest Mushrooms with Kennebunkport Lobster and Grilled Diver Harvested Scallop. Usually when we order soft-shell crab, we receive a pair or a trio of crabs, but at this restaurant, we were presented with just one crab and it was the largest soft-shell crab that we had ever seen. What makes soft-shell crabs so much fun to eat is the delightful crunchiness of the shell contrasted by the explosion of juices when one bites through the shell. The White Barn Inn's version of this dish was a model of its kind. Accompanied by a scoop of mango salsa and baby arugula, the mild spiciness of the crab was offset perfectly by the sweetness of the ripe mango. The risotto was good but not as sensational as the soft-shell crab. While the earthy mushrooms and the super-fresh chunks of lobster and scallop were delicious, the risotto itself lacked flavor. Maybe the stock used in preparation of the risotto was bland or maybe the rice did not fully absorb the stock. Whatever the case, Mr. Epicure and I wound up clashing forks over the soft-shell crab.
In between our appetizers and main course, our server brought us two palate-cleansers, a Pear Sorbet and a Seared, Marinated Salmon on a Fennel Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette. The fresh, tangy flavors of the marinated salmon reminded me of ceviche. With three cool slabs of pink, fleshy salmon, the portion was certainly generous. If only I could say the same about the pear sorbet, which disappeared within a few spoonfuls. Presented like a jewel on a silver tray, the pear sorbet filled out the center of an exquisitely shaped glass flower. Each bite of sweet, frozen pear puree was sublime. The texture was even slightly grainy, like eating a real pear. Probably one of the best pear sorbets that I've ever had.
For our main courses, we had Grilled Loin of North Atlantic Yellowfin Tuna and Roasted Breast and Braised Leg of Maine Duck. There was a rustic yet rich and mellow quality about our dishes. The tuna was meaty but not tough, enhanced by an aged balsamic reduction. It was served with olive oil whipped potatoes and a medley of spring vegetables. The seasonal fiddleheads (circular leaves of a type of fern) were especially good. The tender slices of Maine duck came sandwiched in between two sweet corn fritters and glazed with a honey lavender sauce, which tempered the gaminess of the dish. It was accompanied by fresh zucchini and tomatoes. Both dishes were absolutely delicious.
Being the souffle addict that I am, I found myself grinning hugely as I watched our servers approach with our desserts - a Grand Marnier Souffle with raspberry sauce and raspberry sorbet and a Peach Ginger Fruit Soup. The souffle was as light as a cloud and wonderfully matched with the raspberry sauce and sorbet, but it was tiny compared to souffles that I've had at New York restaurants famed for this delicacy like La Grenouille or La Caravelle. The peach ginger soup was less successful than the souffle in that the ginger flavor was so strong that it completely overpowered the peach. There is nothing more refreshing on a muggy, summer day than a bowl of thick peach soup, but the ginger gave it a strange, medicine-like taste. Oh, if only we had chosen the assortment of sorbets. The taste of the pear sorbet still lingers in my memory.
If there is one thing that The White Barn Inn takes more seriously than their food, it is their service. Regardless of the number of people in your party, everyone will be served each course simultaneously. So if there are eight people at your table, you will have eight servers setting down eight plates of food in unison. That was something that impressed even this seasoned restaurant-goer. Of course, with such a high server-to-guest ratio, our water glasses were always full, and our primary server stopped by frequently to make certain that we were happy with our selections. And when it was time for me to make that obligatory stop at the ladies' room, one of the servers practically escorted me there, warning me as we approached a step up. They were so attentive that if I were the paranoid type, I would have wondered whether my reputation as a klutz preceded me.
As we relaxed at our table savoring the utterly enchanting room, Mr. Epicure noted that I had that telltale after-dinner glow that could only be the product of an immensely satisfying meal. This is the feeling that one always hopes for at the end of a meal, but rarely encounters. While the food was quite delectable, it was, in all honesty, eclipsed by the setting and the service. I'm sure that I could find food of comparable quality in New York City, but the captivating ambiance of The White Barn Inn is one-of-a-kind.
*Note:: Though the White Barn Inn first established its reputation as a destination restaurant for gourmands, it is now also known for offering luxurious accommodations. It is a member of Relais & Chateaux. Room rates range from $230 for a modestly sized Inn Room to $575 for the Loft Suite. There may be discounts available for off-season. There also are various dinner and lodging packages available during off-season.
Address: 37 Beach Street, Kennebunkport, Maine
Telephone: 207-967-2321
Attire: Semi-formal to formal. Jackets are required for men.
Reservations policy: A credit card is required to hold a reservation, and there is a 24-hour cancellation policy.
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes, there is a prix-fixe vegetarian menu.
Recommended:
Yes
|
|
|
|
Epinions.com ID:
Epicure
|
 - Top 500 |
|
Location: New York, NY
Reviews written: 88
Trusted by: 100 members
About Me:
I generally avoid temptation....unless I can't resist it.
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.