Background

My wife and I first discovered Carpinteria State Beach, just south of Santa Barbara, a few years back while joining a few friends for a brief overnight stay. Recently, we decided to return and more fully experience it--now with two toddlers, and a sister-in-law, in tow.

This would be my first camping trip as the "main honcho," and I wanted to set a good precedent. Luckily, I had my (much more experienced) wife with me. Still, we needed somewhere where we could start gently--somewhere where we could learn, and not put the yung'uns around too much wildlife right away. In the past, we would've throw caution to the wind, and darted right into the untamed wilderness, without a second thought.

We are fairly familiar with downtown Carpinteria. We frequent the area to visit friends, as well as attend an annual convention and practices at the Shotokan Ohshima Dojo (http://www.ska.org). We know where to eat in town, if necessary, and where to find suitable motels, should we need a "regular" bed.

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We made our reservations online, at http://www.reserveamerica.com--a very useful site with information that took a lot of guesswork and worry out of planning the trip. The previous week, I became very frustrated while trying to find suitable areas for both primitive and developed camping in either the Angeles National Forest, just north of Los Angeles, or Sequoia National Forest--it just "wasn't there." ReserveAmerica.com, however, lets you search for campsite information by city, state, amenities, or park, and identifies vacancies and lets you make reservations, not unlike the hotel search sites (ie. Travelocity). We selected our site, agreed to the terms, and used our credit card to pay $32.50 (including a $7.50 parking fee), later printing out the e-mail confirmation. Once we arrived, we produced our paperwork and gave them our license plate number, whereupon the friendly ranger expeditiously gave us a parking permit, answered our questions, and pointed us in the right direction.

The Actual Campground

There are 213 campsites, in 4 loops, with 2 of them being "group" sites. Our party of 5 stayed in the "Anacapa" group site, and we were a 90 second brisk walk to the sands of the beach (and half a minute more to the water). The other sites are Santa Cruz, SR, and SM. We were given number "A020," which merely meant "Anacapa-20"--the sites have a unique number, regardless of the loop, from 1-213. Each loop has a central building with men & women's restrooms on one side, and hot showers (25 cents for about 3 minutes) on the other, as well as some deep-tubbed sinks (and a free, cold shower) on the side. There were also a fair number of recreational vehicles, and they seemed to enjoy every kind of hookup possible. There are a nice variety of trees, offering plenty of shade, one of which the 2 women and I were able to move the solid wood picnic table under. In addition, there are fire rings for each site, and our loop had a visitor's center and a sizeable amphitheater. There's also a saltwater marsh on the grounds (not explored). Check-in time is 2PM, while check-out is noon.

Time Goes by FAST here!

We settled in around 2:45, set up our tents, and walked over to the beach. As soon as we sat down and took in the scene, I was flabbergasted. Pristine, white sandy beaches stretched in either direction, and you could see oil derricks in the distance, under a shroud of mist--they don't detract from the scene, however. There is a "just-right" amount of sand here--not so little as to force you to retreat with the rising tide-but also, not so much as to make you feel as if you're "hiking across the desert." It was especially poignant because, in about 2 minutes' time, we seemed to be in a different location altogether--and a pristine one, at that!

It was not crowded at all on this Thursday afternoon, and it's hard to imagine it being so. This was borne out on Friday, as well-there was just one large group of kids, which appeared to be with a youth group-and they were very well-behaved. The balance seemed to be mostly locals, or just very mellow tourists.

The beach here is flat and even--our toddlers were able to wade fairly far out, without dangerous waves suddenly rising up and enveloping them. At the same time, however, the waves could attain a decent-enough size for some surfing (although the surfers were mostly a few hundred yards to the north), and the youth group was able to continuously mass-ride a giant water-skiing-type inner tube, with just the right amount of drama as to not incur any injuries or concern.

While at the beach, you are never aware of the campground. This is sand dune country, and there are some mounds of slightly coarse sand, with seashell fragments, and they obscure the parking lot (you actually walk through a narrow path cut through a dune!). There is a private party area with showers, a bathroom, and, likely, kitchen facilities, and these were occupied by the youth group. If you've ever been to "Barney's Beach," on the Navy's property in Seal Beach, CA, then you know what I'm talking about, although this is much better-looking.

A Surprise Performance!

While there, we were invited to come to a campfire ceremony, to be performed by a Chumash Indian elder. We took advantage of this, and the toddlers lasted all of 15 minutes, before conking out, at which point the women retired, while I stayed on for the finale.

The (female) elder said she was the "youngest of 7, and the only 'Indian' in the family." A friendly ranger helped stoke a small fire in the amphitheater's pit, while she spoke. She began by sprinkling tobacco on the fire, which she said was rare in California, and had been frequently used for ceremonies--I should've sat a bit further back, as the sweet smell initially aggravated some congestion I'd been experiencing, but that soon passed, and I was more enjoying the "ambience." She spoke about being raised the traditional way-on the land-and how the Indians respected "Grandmother Ocean," as well as the other natural resources. She said you could never tell that the native peoples had occupied an area-due to their careful attention to picking up all human-generated waste-and that we should be equally respectful of this (preserved) land, and not be afraid to pick up someone else's trash.

The Chumash elder told many stories, but one, in particular, stood out. She said, many moons ago, "Coyote" (apparently, one of many deities) heard a "knock-knock-knock" noise. Curious, he searched around until he found "Woodpecker," upon whom he looked down and saw his beautiful red-tinted head--he had heard a great flood was coming, and was storing chestnuts in the tops of trees. "What are you doing, Woodpecker?" asked Coyote. "Oh, go away and leave me alone! I'm busy storing chestnuts for the coming flood!" After some fruitless conversation, Coyote asked,"Could I have a beautiful red head of hair like yours?" "Oh, nonsense!" cried Woodpecker, but after a while, he conceded,"OK. Go and build a HUGE fire, with many coals." "When you have it all nice and hot, take one of the coals, and carefully place it right on top of your head," He continued. "When you are done, I promise that you will have the most beautiful red head that you have ever seen!" he finished. Coyote thanked him, and excitedly went home to do just as he said. He built a great fire-it was so big, that the villagers thought that he'd burned his house down-but it was for naught. And when he had it nice and hot, he took out one of the red-hot coals, and placed it right on top of his head. He then let out a great "HOOOOOWWWWOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!" Coyote had found his howl! He then went running to the lake, into which he promptly jumped. He came out, steaming mad (the elder said she thinks this is where the term came from), and went looking for Woodpecker, whom he's still looking for, to this day! Woodpecker is still very afraid, because he knows Coyote wants to find him and eat him. That is how the story went, and the Chumash had many stories like this, which typically carried a lesson.

Why They Call it "Carpinteria"

The Chumash Indians who resided here, we were told by the elder, were a very industrious people--especially reknown for their carpentry. They chose the area because natural tar seeped out of the ground, which they used to seal canoes. These were employed to trade with peoples on nearby islands. The Spanish named it "Carpinteria," because they were impressed by this large, ship-building enterprise.

The Weather

Mornings are typically foggy, and Friday was no exception (we went in mid-August)--but it burned off by the early afternoon to reveal another gorgeous, sunny day. My wife and I had gotten married in the mountains behind, and it was foggy (and a bit chilly in the AM, being mid-May) then, as well. Around 10pm, I retired to the tent to continue my reading, as I felt just a bit cold, wearing my thin jacket--I was plenty warm in the tent, though. We were surprised by a freak thunderstorm (but this extended all the way through Los Angeles County), and brief, light-medium rain, but we were the only ones (in our area) that actually got up to empty our clotheslines. Carpinteria usually has a temperate climate, year-round--just gorgeous California weather!

The People

The rangers were very friendly and helpful, and the other campers were quiet and considerate (but your mileage may vary). Being in the "group" loop (Anacapa) may've contributed to group conformance, but we were soon made aware of a large, interconnected group of apparently foreign campers (they looked Dutch to me, spoke something that sounded like a blend between German and French (maybe Flemish), and my sister-in-law (who studied French) thought they were Russian. In any case, they weren't unpleasant in any way, and seemed completely at ease with us. A large group of kids seemed content to ride their bikes around the loop-almost incessantly-but they were not loud, obnoxious, or dangerous, in any way. Those that appeared to be "locals" seemed relaxed and "open," unlike the zealous "locals only" attitude you sometimes catch at those more commercial beaches like Santa Monica and Redondo Beach, CA--I used to live in Redondo, so I know, I know!

Some Particulars

The maximum stay is 7 days during peak season, from May to December, after which you must completely vacate for at least 48 hours. The only tent camping is in the Anacapa & Santa Cruz loops (others are for RV's). Regular campsites can have up to 8 people, while group sites must have at least 9 (I guess we got away with this), and dogs, although not allowed on the beach, must be kept on a 6-foot leash on the campgrounds. Beachfront sites (for tents and RVs) are available in the Santa Cruz loop, but you may not camp on the actual beach. Fees are inclusive of 1 vehicle and 1 legally-towed trailer or other vehicle. Any extra vehicles will incur a per night charge. Generator hours are 10AM-8PM.

There is also a convenience store, visitor's center, "iron ranger," handicap access, including a "beach wheelchair (call ahead), tidepools, fishing, biking, a comfort station, dump station, and telephones. The park kiosk hours are 8AM-10PM (high season), and 8:30AM-6:00PM (low season). Seals and sea lions can be seen in the area December-May, and a gray whale may be spotted. The tidepools support sea anemones, crabs, starfish, octopi, and sea urchins.

How to Get There

Carpinteria State Beach is about 115 miles north of Los Angeles--a straight shot on highway 101. Exit at Casitas Pass Road, turn left, and go up to Carpinteria Avenue and turn right. Turn left at Palm Avenue, and take another left at 4th Street. Follow the signs to the park kiosk. From points north, just venture south on hwy 101, 12 miles south of Santa Barbara, and take the same exit.

What's Nearby

Immediately north of the campground, on the same block, is a large, open-air park. Across the street are some apartments, and a residential neighborhood, as well as a more developed, touristy, beach--I was able to park there for 2 hours, but be careful--a moped-riding "code enforcement" officer is on the prowl, marker in hand. The downtown area is walking distance, and there are many small, ethnic restaurants. There is a Greek bistro on Carpinteria Ave. (just hang a right there, as you head up the street from the park) with some excellent, tasty & healthy food. For those craving more mainstream cuisine, there is a Carrow's nearby, as well as an Ihop, and a McDonald's. There is a very clean Motel 6 on Carpinteria Ave., as well, right next to a Starbuck's and an Albertson's. There is also a Von's in the vicinity, and the Carpinteria Amtrak station, should you wish to leave your car at home. In short, even though this is a "small town," you will find pretty much everything you need, within walking distance.

For those more adventurous, you could follow Toro Canyon Pkwy into a little village in the wilderness. We drove to the other side of Santa Barbara, on highway 101, exited at San Marcos Pass Road (highway 154), and took a right at Chumash Painted Cave Road. This (very steep and hairpin curve-endowed, narrow) road leads to Chumash Painted Cave State Historic Park. What this amounts to, after the treacherous drive (we had to turn the air conditioner off, as the temperature gauge started climbing a bit), is room for 3 cars to park on the shoulder, a few markers, what is possibly the (gated and locked) cave entrance, and some trails that we were able to help the toddlers along. I climbed up pretty high, but there was a small area gated off to preserve some plants. I could've gone farther, but I didn't want to leave the women and children behind.

We later explored the other side of the road, which leads to a creek, where we were surprised to find that the toddlers were very eager to explore the uneven, rocky terrain, as if they were in a Go, Diego, Go! cartoon! This is the wilderness (Los Padres National Forest), and I was the one to soon urge everyone back to the car--remembering a friend's recent bout with a tick-borne illness in the area, as well as the wild animals. If you continue up this road, you'll find a charming private residential area (the sign said "For Residents & their Guests Only"). One could also follow highway 154 to Lake Cachuma, which appears to have an island, and Cachuma Village.

What About Santa Barbara?

Ahhhh, Santa Barbara! It is a charming, medium-sized town, 12 miles north of Carpinteria. It has its own airport, historic buildings, a museum, a very fashionable shopping area built around historic buildings (try to take in the Cinco de Mayo festival here!), high-class resorts/hotels, and a beautiful park across the street from the ocean, where they seem to have street vendors and fairs every weekend. We had our wedding reception in the hall at Palm Park--it was picturesque and lovely, but the 60-person capacity had us shuffling some guests in and out, at times. There is much more to do here, which warrants a separate review.

Other Destinations

There is much nearby-from islands originally inhabited by the Chumash, to a Dutch settlement famous for its chocolate (Solvang), and an Indian casino. The Santa Ynez Indian Reservation is 26 miles along the aforementioned San Marcos Road. The Lake Casitas Recreational Area, near Ojai, is only a 20 minute drive--just take a left at Rincon Road (highway 150), after heading south on Carpinteria Avenue. Be aware that Casitas Pass Road (highway 192) is circuitous, and later merges with hwy 150. Of these, I've only been to Solvang, so I can't comment on the rest.

What Else?

If you "Google" Carpinteria, you will find that virtually the entire town is accesible via Google.com's "street view." If you haven't tried this, just click on the street view icon, and then drag the little man to a blue-outlined street. You can pan the camera around 360 degrees, up and down, and sometimes, "drive" up and down a street. For the record, I was even able to view the winding San Marcos Pass Road, in Santa Barbara, in this manner. Happy Googling!

My sister-in-law liked it so much that she booked 2 more days, exactly a week later, after buying $300 worth of updated camping gear at Costco's--we're goin' Ba-ack!

Summary

Carpinteria State Beach is a great family camping (or simply leisure) destination. The rangers are very, very friendly, and the locals are welcoming, and down-to-Earth. There is an incredible range of entertaining destinations nearby, yet you are never far from big-city conveniences, should the need arise. The water is warm, and the waves, entertaining (but safe). The air is refreshingly clean, and the beach is a stone's throw away. It has ample modern bathroom & shower facilities, and RV hookups, as well. I can't wait until our next adventure at Carpinteria State Beach!

What did we do to relax after our camping trip? Why, we went to the theater to watch Hancock


Click HERE! to See What I did when I got BORED in ROME!


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Recommended: Yes

Best time to go: Anytime
Recommended for: Anybody
Review Topic: Campgrounds & Lodging