I have been going to the National Park since before I was born. I still call it “The Monument” every once in a while. Before my grandmother died we would visit her 4-6 times a year and we always spent one day in “The Monument.” Now I only make it up there 2-3 times a year.

Must see sites for a first timer.
I will go in depth about these stops below but I wanted to list them here for reference
-Keys view
-Keys ranch (paid tour)
-Barker damn
-Mount Ryan (a moderately strenuous hike.)
-Hidden valley
-Cholla gardens
-Ocotillo gardens
-Lost palms oasis

I feel these are the more interesting or more accessible hikes. Always consult the park newspaper for additional information.

Lodging
There is no lodge in this park and probably never will be. So lodging will probably be made in Twentynine Palms, Joshua Tree city, Yucca Valley, Morongo Valley, or Indio. Other cities (like Palm Springs) have nicer accommodations but you will have to drive a lot further.
I know that Twentynine Palms has a couple of nice but rather old lodges/compounds. I have never stayed in them and only ate at one so I cannot provide much useful information. But if it is anything like the culture at Twentynine palms then it should be a very homey place to stay.

Campsite descriptions.
Belle Is very similar to Jumbo Rocks and there are plenty of rocks to climb, just not as many as in Jumbo Rocks. There are two major rock out croppings here that are fun to climb and a little scary at times. You can easily climb to the top without gear but I have seen climbers going up the sheer side of the rock pile. There is no running water and it has pit toilets. Like every other campground in this area there is no running water and it has pit toilets.
Black Rock
This is the only campsite that I do not remember having been to (I probably was there when I was 5). It is located just outside of Yucca valley and it has its own ranger station. You cannot get to the rest of the park from this location unless you take the hiking trail out. One nice thing is you have access to water and the city is very close by. It has running water.
Cotton Wood
Cottonwood is the only campsite in the main part of the park with running water and the only place for big R.V.'s. It also has group camping. This is where my wife's family prefers to camp mainly because it has running water. The campgrounds in the middle of the park do not have running water and only have outhouses. The climate is warmer because of the lower elevation. I don't feel the sites are as beautiful as other sites in the park. But my son loves it because he thinks the campsite is one giant sand box. This is a good campsite for individuals that do not want to camp without running water.
Hidden Valley
This is one of my least favorite campgrounds. You do not have any good rocks to climb to get away from everybody. Like many campsites in the park, Hidden Valley campsites are exposed to direct sunlight. This site is also right next to two main roads that are quite active. Not very secluded. It used to be worse because the road to Barker Dam and the other trails in the area went straight through the campground. There is no running water and it has pit toilets.
Indian Cove
This campsite is located at the northern edge between Twentynine Palms and Joshua Tree city. I have not been there recently and I have only spent time there for picnics. It does have running water.
The Northern entrance to the Boy Scout trail is located here as are a couple of smaller trails. This would be a descent spot for one night, maybe two.
Jumbo Rocks
Jumbo rocks is my favorite campground. The sites are literally in the rocks. This adds a greater sense of privacy then the other sites but that does not mean it is private by any means. What is cool is you just need to walk to the back of your campsite and start climbing on rocks. There is no running water and it has pit toilets.
I also see a lot of climbers in this campground. From my untrained eye, most of these people look like they are undergoing training. Also, if you see a commercial with rocks in the desert, good chance it was filmed in this area.
Ryan
I have only camped here on one trip and I thought the campsites were nice but nothing special. In the center of the campground is a small rock pile that can easily be climbed by anyone. Well anyone not scared of heights that is.
There are some hiking trails nearby and you can take a nice walk to the entrance of Mount Ryan if you wanted to. There is no running water and it has pit toilets.
White tank
This site reminds me a lot of Jumbo Rocks and it is in the same climate and has many of the same features and wildlife. The main difference is the campground is more exposed than Jumbo rocks. I will usually go to this campground during the day to hike a really cool geological hike. Not only do you get to see a lot of the natural vegetation on this hike but you get to see the lay out of that part of the valley. This site is also right next to Belle.

Favorite places for a picnic.
-Jumbo rocks (if it is not crowded.)
-Split rock (sit under the big rock for shade.)
-Hidden valley day use area (there are some good shaded spots to hangout if you can get them.)
-Fosters freeze in Twentynine Palms. J

Minor hikes or stops on the road..
Arch rock This hike is located at white tank campground. Just drive in, follow the signs, and park at the day use area. There are about 10 parking spots available and this is a popular Ranger led hike. You get a good look at some of the native vegetation and the geological development of the surrounding area. .3 mile loop.
Cholla gardensThis is a nice quarter-mile walk around a bunch of menacing Teddybear Chollas (cactus). .25 mile loop.
Keys view Keys view is not a hike, just a view point. You only walk about 50 feet uphill to get to the point. You can see the entire lower desert valley from Salton sea to the entrance to the canyon leading back to civilization. On a clear day you can see Signal mountain in Mexico (I think that is the name.) This is a day use area but that didn't stop my friend and I. Even at midnight you can see the entire valley light up. It was absolutely beautiful, and a little spooky. I highly recommend doing that.
Oasis of Mara This is located behind the 29 Palms visitor center. I personally find it boring but it is a nice little hike with plaques with information. If you can go on a ranger-led hike. .5 mile loop.
Ocotillo gardens This is not a trail but rather a stop on the side of the road. The best time to see this is in the spring when the ocotillo bloom. If you miss it here the ocotillo along the 10 freeway bloom about a month later because of the climate change.
Skull Rock I have actually never been on the formal trail. My brother and I usually jumped out of the car, dodged cars, and climbed on every rock we could. It is called skull rock because of a skull shaped rock that is visible from the road. .25 mile loop.

Major hikes and their descriptions.
Barker dam I love this hike because it is easy and you get a beautiful destination. You will find an abundance of wildlife in the early morning and evening because of the amount of water there. On the backside of the trail is some pictographs but they also have graffiti so the effect is diminished. 1.1 mile loop.
Boy Scout trail
The trail entrance (south end) is about 15 minutes from Joshua tree city. I have only hiked it once, but I hiked the whole 16 miles of it with a 70 pound pack... In 90 degree heat. Man was that a fun hike. You can hike it in a day if you want to, but we did it as our first backpacking trip. If you start from the south-east part of the trail then it is mostly downhill, but it is quite a lot of uphill hiking if you go the other way. Just remember to have someone pick you up at the other end. 16 mile trail.
Hidden valley I never liked this hike because I thought is was boring. So as an adult I refused to go on it. Supposedly the first ranchers used this area to corral their cattle. 1 mile loop.
Live Oak This is a day use area near Jumbo rock. The only story I know of where a human encountered a cougar occurred on this trail. It is a simple and uneventful hike.
Lost Horse Mine My friend and I wanted to climb around in the mine so we decided to go on this hike. We followed an old dirt road that is still in use by the park service, not a hiking trail. When we got there we were disappointed to see that it was all fenced off. Oh well, it was a nice hike anyways. 4 miles round trip.
Lost palms oasis This is a wonderful hike that even kids can do. It is not every steep until you get to the canyon. When you get to the canyon you hike down and explore the oasis and eat lunch in the canyon floor. One of my favorite hikes. 7.5 miles round trip.
Mount Ryan (a moderately strenuous hike.) This is my favorite hike and one of the hardest in the park. Once you hike to the top you can see all of queens valley and most of the northern end of the park. This is where I proposed to my wife so you can guess how important this hilltop is to me. 3 miles round trip, up hill, one-way, not in the snow…unless it is snowing.
Pinto Mountain A very strenuous hike. This will take you a full day to do and I recommend backpacking instead. I have never been to the top yet.
Split Rock This is a simple hike and it is much like the others in the Jumbo Rocks area.

Keys ranch (paid tour)
This is very cool and worth the price. It is around 4 dollars per person. This gives you a view of what it was like to be a settler of the west. This is also the most informative and visual ranger-led hike you will encounter.

Other hikes I have not been on but may interest you.
-49 palms oasis- This is just west of 29 palms city and it is a 3 mile round trip hike.
-Mastodon Peak- from Cottonwood Springs. This is shorter than Lost Palms Oasis trail but you apparently have a pretty good view. 3 miles round trip.

Other interests
-Geology tour- Not really a hike but a dirt road that reveals geological features in the area. I have only gone part of the way until we realized we were running out of time. There is a brochure guide that give you information on the geological history of the area, you will be a little lost without it. You MUST have a 4 wheel drive vehicle after marker 9. Sure you can make it without, but you can get stuck in some of the thick sand. The road is not maintained. The trip is about 11 miles round trip and you can exit the park that way if you wanted.
-Horse back riding-If you have your own horse then there are several trails you can use for horseback riding. Check a detailed map or the ranger station for more information.

The 2 deserts
There are two desert ecosystems in the park. The high desert is called the Mojave Desert. This is where my grandmother lived. It is generally cooler than the lower desert and is the only part of the park that has Joshua Trees. Amazingly it will snow in this part of the park, the snow does not stay on the ground for very long and it only snows once every few years.
Most of the northern part of the park is accessible to the general public. This is where the majority of the roads are (both paved and dirt.) This is also where the best hikes are.
The southern desert is called the Colorado Desert. It is hotter than the Mojave and have a different ecosystem. This is the same desert you can find Indio and Palm Springs in.

Stats From www.nps.gov/jtnp
The park encompasses a total of 794,000 acres.
-Became a monument in 1936.
-Became a National Park on October 31, 1994.
There are 712 higher plant species, 40 reptile species, 41 mammal species, and 240 bird species.

Fees.
Entrance fees
Joshua Tree Pass: $25.00 for 12 Months
Vehicle: $10.00 for 7 Days
Walk-in: $5.00 for 7 Days

Camping fees
$5 per night: Belle, Hidden Valley, Jumbo Rocks, Ryan, White tank.
$10 per night: Black rock, Cotton wood, Indian cove.
Group rates vary from $20 to $35

Note: camping fees are new as of the end of 2003.

Average highs and lows
January 62 30
February 67 37
March 75 41
April 84 49
May 91 54
June 101 63
July 108 70
August 105 69
September 98 62
October 88 52
November 72 40
December 62 30
(source: The Joshua Tree Guide, Spring 2004, page9)

These measurements are apparently taken at the southern end (1960 feet). On average you can expect to see a 12 degree cooling effect at the higher elevation, Which is why I prefer Jumbo Rocks in early and late summer.

My Backpacking experiences in the park.
First thing you need to know is camping in the backcountry is not allowed unless you are one mile from the road. You do not need a wilderness permit and it is recommended to sign in before you leave on a trip. There are registration stands at the beginning of every major trailhead.
I have only been on 3 trails in this park and they are detailed below.
The first backpacking trip I went on with my own gear was on the Boy Scout trail with 3 of my closest friends. It is a 16 mile hike and it is mostly downhill or semi-flat trails (if started from the south entrance). It is a very easy hike and a great trail for beginners.
The second hike I went on was up Pinto Mountain and I did it alone. I wanted to get away from everything after finding out my mother was terminally ill with cancer. I miss planned the hike and only made it a quarter up Pinto Mountain before turning around and pitching tent at the base. I then got picked up by my grandmother the following day. It was more of a reflective time for myself then anything.
The other hike I have been on was the Lost Palms Oasis. I normally do this in 5 hours but this time we took a long time because it was a social trip, not a backpacking trip. It was a lot of fun. This was also where I blew my MSR Whisperlite.

What not to do while backpacking
Do not pitch your tent in a wash
do not hike alone
do not hike in 95 degree heat with a 70 pound pack.

What to bring for hiking
Do yourself a favor a go buy a platypus pouch. It will make carrying water a lot easier. But you can expect to carry 1 Gallon of water per day, possibly 2 if it is hot. So for a morning hike plan on carrying ½ to 1 gallon of water. May seem like a lot but you will be happy you did.
I highly recommend a GPS, hiking boots, Thorlo socks, comfortable pants (not shorts), comfortable shirt and fleece or windbreaker, and snacks.

The Desert Institute
There are a series of classes hosted by UC Riverside that explore the park and educate the public. A good option for those of you in the Inland Empire. They do cost money and time/cost does vary.

Campfire events
At Cotton wood and Jumbo rocks there are occasional Ranger Led Campfire programs. They are pretty generic and I usually get bored with them. I would rather do the leading than the listening but since the park service does not let volunteer lead these any more I am out of luck. But if you do not have a background in science and you are not easily bored like me then you will probably enjoy them.

Some animals you may see
Coyotes - Very common and easy to see. In fact they have been a major problem in the past. Since visitors left so much garbage the coyotes would just eat the visitors trash. A study was done and they ended up putting a nasty drug in hot dogs that caused the coyote stomach pains. Apparently it worked. You can read the study in certain research journals like Wildlife Journal.
Cougars - I have never seen one of these in the wild and I probably never will. There territory is estimated at 200 square miles in the desert but that would change depending on how plentiful their food source is. (Kings canyon it is estimated at 10 square miles). They like to hunt big horn sheep but they can eat just about anything to survive. In fact the park service was considering killing/relocating one cat because it was about to wipe out an entire herd of big horn sheep.
Kangaroo Rats -Very common at dusk. I have seen these hop around our campsite at Cottonwood and White Tank. Just do not move and you will see them scurry about. They do not drink an entire drop of water in their lives, they get all the moisture they need from seeds.
Jack rabbits - Very common and you will see several on your trip.
Pack rats- I have never seen one but I have seen several nests. One nest is a permanent fixture in the Cholla Gardens.
Tortoises - Harder and harder to find. I have only seen a couple of these in my lifetime. They are endangered. One reason is people take them home. Another is Ravens grab them, fly really high and drop them on the rocks. This cracks the shell revealing the meat for the ravens to eat. If you see one do not touch it because it could carry diseases.
Big horn sheep - It is far easier to see tracks of this animal then it is to see on in real life. These animals could be on the hillside in front of you and you still will not see it. In fact for the park service to count them they take a helicopter over the herd, scare them, then count them. The only two places I have seen evidence of these animals is on the Lost Palms Oasis Trail and a side trail on the Boy Scout Trail. Both of these areas were off limits to backpackers and both sources had springs. These animals need a good source of water and rocky terrain to protect them from the cougar
Bobcat - I have never seen one but they do exist in the desert.

Wild Flowers
The best time to see wild flowers is a week after a major rain. It is absolutely amazing to see the entire desert alive with color. You will probably forget it was a desert. In about a week most of the flowers die off and release their seeds. Some heartier annuals will remain for over a month but you will not seem as vivid.

Dangers of the desert
The biggest danger you will encounter is the lack of water. Please make sure you have plenty of water to drink.
The second biggest danger is the elements. In the winter it is very cold and the summer it is very hot. It has been know to snow in the park and a combination of cold and wind-chill has killed people before.
The third is hiking alone and falling off a rock. This happens every year and is going to continue to happen as long as we keep the park wild.
I have never heard of cougars being a problem but a pack of coyotes have been known to kill small children. Small children should never be left alone.

How to deal with animals
Mountain Lions- Stand tall and stand your ground.
Rattle snakes- Stop, isolate the sound of the rattle and the location, and slowly back away from the snake. Rattle snakes do not want to hurt you, they just want to get away, allow the snake to do so. If you do get bit just stay calm and have someone get help. If you are alone just stay calm and go back to where people are. Rattlesnake venom will rarely kill a person.
Tarantulas- Their sting is like that of a bee sting. Nothing to worry about as long as it is not an exotic.
Scorpions- These can be dangerous. Always check your boots after you get up. But if you want to find one they are generally hiding under rocks during the day and hunt at night.
Coyotes- Pretty harmless. If you do encounter a hostile one then just stand your ground. But I have never heard of a coyote attacking an adult before, they are usually scavengers or go after small game like rabbits.

Can you buy land in the park?
Actually you can. There are several homesteaders that still have property within the parks boundaries. Keys ranch was one until the park got the land through a land trade. The park tries to buy these properties whenever you can but rarely has the funds for it. You may not realized this but many National parks do have private land within their boundaries (Sequoia being another one I know about.)

How to get hurt in the desert.
This is a continuation on my theme of doing stupid things in Joshua Tree National Park. I will not repeat how to set the desert on fire, you will need to read that at the link on the bottom, just click on the MSR Whisperlite link.
I have a lot of stories but the one that sticks out is of a couple marines that were hiking off trail. One Marine was getting dehydrated because he did not drink enough water. The other marine told him to sit down in some shade and he would run to get help. Keep in mind that they are not on a designated trail or near a road. Well the marine thought he could run to 29 Palms from his location so he did. About 10 minutes into his jog he thought “I could run a lot fast if I did not have my boots on”. So he took them off and continued running. Well my grandmother ended the story by telling me that the one dehydrated marine was fine after the rangers found him but the other marine was laid up for about a month because of the massive blisters he developed on the bottom of his feet. The most important thing you will learn from this story is to bring plenty of water.
I have also encountered well over a dozen rattlesnakes that almost bit me. They never have because I got lucky and I always keep observant to my surroundings. If you ever hear a rattle, stop, locate the source, and back away. One time I was climbing rocks as a child. I popped my head out and there was a coiled rattler in front of me ready to give me a peck on the cheek. Had I panicked I would of fallen 15 feet on to more rocks. Not what I call fun. All I did was slowly crawl down the way I came and avoided the snake. Remember that rattlesnakes do not want to bite, they are generally as scared as you are. Besides if you do get bitten you will probably not die even if you do not get it treated.
You occasionally have people rock climbing that should not be. This can cause some serious harm if the person falls, especially if he/she is alone.
As long as you hike with someone, carry enough water, stay on the trail, and have a map then you should be fine. It is pretty hard to get lost in this desert.

What’s left
This is a relatively short description of Joshua Tree National Park. There is a lot more things to do. And even with the time I have spent in this park I still have not done it all. If you want to see all of the hiking trails in the park then pick up a nice topo-map from REI and you will see the park in a whole new light. But the information here should give anyone enough information for their first trip.
There are a number of books available at the visitor centers as well as field guides. These books provide a whole new light to the desert and will give you a greater appreciation for the desert.

Summary:
This is a very large and beautiful desert national park. It is very rustic and you will be required to rough it a bit. Once you know the time table of when things happens and plan to go when it is not too hot you will have a very enjoyable trip. Just keep an open mind.
It is still one of my favorite parks.

Other reviews you might be interested in.
The North Face Terra 40 Daypack.
Coleman Queen Air Bed.
MSR Whisperlite.



Recommended: Yes

Best time to go: March-May
Recommended for: Anybody
Review Topic: Overview