The Redwood Forest: The Divinity of Nature
Written: Oct 05 '99
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Gorgeous, breathtaking views and terrific hiking.
Cons: If you want sunny and tropical, this isn't for you.
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| rzazueta's Full Review: Redwood National Park |
The gist:
* Gorgeous, awe-inspiring views of amazing flora and fauna
* Popular, but not crowded
* Perpetual fog and dampness
I make it a point to head north to the Redwood Forest in Humboldt County at least four times a year. If you live in California the trip is easy -- hop in your car, find U.S. 101, and drive North (Humboldt is located right near the top of the state). The redwood forest has an amazing, almost spiritual effect on me. I can be stressed to the max, pulling my hair out for months and gritting my teeth and need only spend a weekend amongst the awesome redwoods and majestic rivers and creeks to find my batteries recharged.
The area I am describing begins about 40 miles south of Eureka, where the Old Redwood Highway begins, and stretches north past Orick. The economy of the area is based around the lumber industry, and much of the traffic on the highway during the week is due to the hundreds of trucks bearing logs from the great forests down to the rest of the state. The Pacific Lumber Company, which recently received much controversy over it's claim on a large patch of old growth redwood, is located in Scotia and is responsible for much of the logging that occurs in the area.
The small towns in this area hark back to an earlier time in California's history. Ferndale, with it's victorian houses and old time feel, is a terrific place to stop off and grab brunch or do a little antiquing.
If you're into the college scene, head further north to Arcata, where Humboldt State University is in session from September to May. Arcata, in many ways, began where UC Berkeley left off. At HSU, a majority of the students are in majors revolving around wildlife conservation and forestry, fostering a strong eco-political movement that
can make old hippies weepy-eyed for days of yore.
If you're looking for outdoor fun, hiking in the Redwood Forest can not be beat. From the sandy, fog-shrouded coastline to the inland stands of hundred- and thousand-year-old trees, there's enough beauty here to convince the staunchest atheist that the Bible's description of Eden may not have been too far off the mark.
From Eureka, travel north on the 101 to Trinidad. Watch for signs pointing you to Trinidad State Beach and take a little side trip. But leave the bathing suit at home -- Trinidad is a walking beach, and at sunset can become one of the most romantic views in the state. Large outcroppings of rock in the middle of the bay and on the shore make for breathtaking views as the sunlight cuts across them, leaving gorgeous colors and shadows on the cliffs behind you. The rocks on the shoreline beg to be climbed, but keep in mind the axiom I always seem to forget when I find myself here: "Never climb a rock you haven't yet figured out how to get down from."
For some amazing hiking, hop back on the 101 and head even further north to the tiny town of Orick. If you need to get supplies, look for a small market/deli in the "downtown" section covered with a mural of tropical palm trees. As you wend along the 101, try your best to keep your eyes on the road, despite the amazing views of waves crashing along the beach and the flats of the baylands. My two favorite trails in this area are the Fern Canyon Loop and Prairie Creek. Signs point you to both trailheads.
Fern Canyon is best appreciated in the Spring and Summer, when the ferns have become their most lush and cascade down the sides of the canyon creating an amazing emerald undulating carpet. The winter rains often play havoc on the creek that, at other times of the year, gently winds its way through the canyon, turning the trail into a series of puddle jumps.
To get to Fern Canyon, you'll have to drive slowly through four miles of old unpaved logging road. The road is covered by a thick canopy of trees and kicks up an impressive amount of dust, so don't wash your car before the trip. It can get rough at times, so if you're concerned about your shocks, you may want to forego this trip.
Once you've driven through the road and paid your $5 admission for the hike, you'll drive along Gold Bluffs Beach, where the camping is popular and the sights are spectacular. The campsites are developed and a shower is located on the premises, but it's an outdoor shower that can give one the serious shivers at 7am in the morning. Camping costs about $16 and reservations are recommended in the Spring and Summer.
I suggest you park along Gold Bluffs beach and hike the remaining two miles to the Fern Canyon trailhead. My reasoning is the beautiful Roosevelt Elk that make their home amidst the forest. In the later part of the year, their racks are astounding and you are often so close to the animals you can almost reach out and touch them. But, as the signs around the area will remind you, these are wild animals and hikers should keep as respectful a distance as they can while still enjoying their beauty. Nothing ruins a good hiking trip like being gored by an elk.
Fern Canyon inspires the kind of quiet in people often reserved for large cathedrals. Once you enter the canyon and make the first turn through the gigantic fallen spruce trees, you'll see why. What isn't covered by long-speared fern is covered with a thick bed of moss, where droplets of water trickle down the canyon's walls into the creek below. Small waterfalls appear occasionally and ad to the breathtaking beauty of the trail. You may want to take some time to eat lunch, sketch, or just sit and ponder it all for a time. If you'd like to photograph it, learn from my mistakes and bring a tripod and cable release -- the canyon rarely gets enough natural light through the forest canopy to make a satisfactory negative.
For a more rigorous hike, you can climb out of the canyon and head on one of the multitude of trails that branch off from that area, or you can head back to the 101, cross the street and take in Prairie Creek. The majesty of the redwoods can best be appreciated along this trail, which carries you into the forest alongside some of the most astounding and humbling trees I have ever seen. I stand at about 6'3" and have never felt shorter in my life than when I stood at the base of a monster reaching at least 200 ft. into the air. The circumference of the trunk was much wider than I am tall added to my sense of smallness. At one point, we came across a chunk of bark that had stripped down along the side of one of trees and landed on the trail with one end of it still connected about ten feet up on the tree itself. I was able to walk across this strip of bark as if it were a length of plywood and touched the smooth trunk the bark had left behind.
Watch where you step anywhere in the forest. You never know when your footfalls may be the home of a banana slug or any number of the other ground-dwelling insects you can find on the forest floor. And that skunky smell? Don't worry, it's just Skunk Cabbage, which seems to crop up everywhere around here. Parts of this area are bear country, so be aware of your surroundings. And don't be surprised if that rustle in the bushes puts you nose-to-nose with a huge elk. The trees and ferns hide many of the small meadows the elk use as feeding grounds, and the adventurous can follow the animal trails to find them.
Some things to remember:
The area is almost perpetually covered in a blanket of fog. The redwoods thrive in such an environment due to their heavy water needs. Bring plenty of warm clothing and rain gear. It rarely gets too warm around here, but a pair of shorts and a T-shirt will keep you comfortable in the event of a freak heat wave.
This entire area is behind the "Redwood Curtain" where the locals tend to be a bit different than the rest of California. Be respectful of their land and their rights and they'll return the favor.
In the Redwood Forest, stay on the maintained trails unless you have a guide. Marijuana growers have been known to use public lands for their crops and, despite the jovial image of the happy pot head, can be alarmingly territorial. If the sign says "No Trespassing," don't question it.
For some old town charm, check out downtown Eureka, Downtown Arcata (also known as "The Plaza") and Historic Ferndale. For some of the best beer around, pay a visit to the Lost Coast Brewery, located right on the 101 in Eureka, and order some Downtown Brown or Eight Ball Stout. For a great breakfast with an incredible array of vegetarian and vegan alternatives (the restaurant also serves meals that will more than satisfy meat-eaters), make a stop off at the Crosswinds in Arcata. For breakfast on the run, Los Bagels is right across the street and their Lox and Cream Cheese is simply the best.
After the big hike, boast of your adventures in the Muddy Waters Cafe in Arcata, where you may just stumble upon a great toe-tapping jazz band like Joy Ride.
Accomodations include various motels in McKinleyville, Eureka and Arcata. The Eureka Inn is a more upscale alternative that is a part of the region's history at a reasonable price. Across the street is the Downtowner, which is a decent motel at an economic price. The standard Motel 6s, Comfort Inns and Super 8s can be found in the above-mentioned towns.
For camping, look into Gold Bluffs beach where the roaring waves will gently lull you to sleep. There is also camping throughout many of the hiking areas I've mentioned. Go the ranger station and interpretive center in Orick for more information. For a less isolated option, there's a decent KOA in Eureka not far from Arcata.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
rzazueta
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Member: Rob Zazueta
Location: Hayward, CA
Reviews written: 17
Trusted by: 7 members
About Me:
Just your average guy.
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