Find "The Lost Coast" in the Sinkyone Wilderness
Written: May 31 '00 (Updated Jun 01 '00)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: A variety of wildlife, countless camping opportunities, unspoiled, rugged terrain, nearby ocean and rivers, unparalleled natural beauty.
Cons: Getting there is difficult - the road to the park is unpaved and can be difficult to navigate, especially in wet weather.
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| kifwebe's Full Review: Sinkyone Wilderness State Park |
Over the recent Memorial Day weekend, I found the lost coast of California, but as it turned out I found a lot more than that. I quite literally had a perfect overall outdoor experience. In fact, I anticipate feelings of disappointment upon completion of this review, mainly because it would be impossible to do Sinkyone Wilderness State Park the justice it richly deserves. But before I spoil everything with pessimistic overtones, I'll move on to the many positive aspects of the area, which is an unspoiled and relatively undiscovered treasure.
History of the Region:
The name Sinkyone comes from the natives that once inhabited the area. They relied upon the riches of the nearby Pacific Ocean for food and the numerous creeks and streams for a reliable water source. They were the only inhabitants for centuries, but in the early to mid 1800's, Europeans discovered the area and (unfortunately) set up logging operations that removed most of the area's redwood population. There are still remnants of these logging operations in the park today, along with railroad beds and other supporting infrastructure.
The area earned the moniker "The Lost Coast" because of its isolation from the rest of the world. As it turns out, the territory is so "wild", that the civil engineers responsible for routing highways were forced to move major north-south routes many miles inland. That's why there is no scenic coastal highway passing through the area, and why it was possible to establish the Sinkyone Wilderness as a state park in the mid 70's.
Terrain: You can pretty much describe the terrain in the area in one word - rugged. The San Andreas fault runs through the park, so it has its share of valleys and peaks, inlets and promontories, which make for some relatively strenuous hiking and back country camping. The majority of the park was once a dense redwood forest, although now only a small percentage remain. I found their immense proportions to be both calming and humbling, but only a first hand experience will give you a true sense of their impact. In addition to the dense forests, hills, and valleys, there are miles and miles of unspoiled black sand beaches.
Camping Opportunities: There are many camping options in the Sinkyone Wilderness that cater to nearly every type of camper. All of the camping is primitive, in that there are no electrical or water facilities to speak of. But there are campsites available within a few hundred yards of the visitor's center, so it isn't necessary to do a great deal of hiking to get to a campsite. There are more sites about .3 miles from the parking lot down the road from the visitor's center, which are more isolated. You also have the option of claiming a site along the 50 or so miles of trails that run throughout the park. Official camping areas are set up along the main trail about every 6 miles, and all of these are accompanied by standard pit outhouses (or many acres of woodland - whichever you prefer). All campsites are given on a first come, first served basis, so you can't reserve ahead. Our campsite was absolutely outstanding. We chose to camp at the site .3 mile along the trail and to hike along the trail without our packs. Our site was located on a stream (which was our water source - see list of camping needs below) and within spitting distance of beautiful Bear Harbor. We had a fire pit (no wood gathering, but you can purchase bundles of wood at the visitor's center), a picnic table, and enough flat ground to accommodate 5 large tents.
Wildlife: This was one of the major highlights of the trip. We were greeted at the visitor's center by 20 or so members of the local Roosevelt elk population that wander up and down the coast within the park. The park ranger was very helpful in answering our questions, and explained that there were currently about 75 elk that lived within park boundaries. Because it is late May, most of the elk that we saw were females, who travel in groups, and youngsters that still hang out with their mothers. Males are solitary at this time of year and usually remain out of sight until breeding season starts. We were also told that pregnant females would soon birth calves, which would make June and July good times to see baby elk.
In addition to elk, we saw a number of deer, hawks, turkey vultures, lizards, and other birds of all shapes and sizes. And it didn't stop there - we saw a group of 30 seals sunning on the beach, an activity that we would later partake in ourselves. The park is also home to mountain lions (personally, I'm glad I didn't see one of these), and it's also known as a good place to watch whales (although May is the tail end of the migration season, so we didn't see any).
Surrounding Area: The Sinkyone Wilderness is isolated to say the least. The nearest towns with services are Redway and Garberville, both of which are about 25 miles from the entrance to the park. Both have accommodation if you decide not to camp, and both have gas and a few restaurants. We found a great café in Garberville called The Calico Café, which serves a variety of pastas, sandwiches, and other California-style cuisine, all of which were delicious. In the area surrounding these towns, there are a number of "tourist attractions" related to the redwoods which dot the region, like "The Famous One Log House", "The Grandfather Tree", and "The Chimney Tree". Most of these aren't worth more than a glance from the road, but a drive through the redwood forest north of Redway (the aptly named Avenue of the Giants) is well worth the trip. Also nearby is the Eel River, which is clean and makes for perfect swimming.
Cautions: If you don't have a 4-wheel drive vehicle, I would recommend renting a car to get into the park. The road is a one lane roller coaster that isn't paved and has its share of potholes. It's a long 4 miles to the visitor's center without pavement, and your car could undergo a beating in the process of getting there. If it is raining or there have been recent storms, you may not be able to safely negotiate the road at all. Be aware of recent weather conditions before attempting to enter the park.
As I already mentioned, there are mountain lions in the park. The ranger can tell you how to best avoid encounters, but it's very unlikely you'll see one let alone have to take evasive action to avoid one. There aren't any bears to speak of, but if you do decide to camp, tie all of your food into a high tree to avoid raids by mice, skunks, and other thieves.
Hiking in the area is pretty strenuous, with many ups and downs. The trails we used were very well maintained, but still provided physical challenge. Prepare to do some difficult hiking in all of the usual ways including hiking shoes and plenty of water.
Ticks, ticks and more ticks are just waiting for you to become their next victim. There's very little you can do to prevent picking them up, but if you discover them before they begin drilling into you, the many diseases ticks can cause will be avoided. The moral of the story is to do tick checks often (don't be shy - their favorite places to attach themselves are likely to be your least favorite places to find them.)
Always monitor the ocean if you plan on exploring the beaches. In other words, beware of tide conditions so that you don't become trapped at sea. Rogue waves are another slight danger. If you hike along the beach, keep an eye out for a phenomenon known as rogue waves, which essentially are huge waves that occur during otherwise calm sea conditions, and have been known to sweep people out to sea or dash them against nearby rocks. I know it sounds ridiculous, but it's happened before so be careful.
Location and Driving Directions: Take Highway 101 (North from San Francisco) until you reach the town of Redway. Head west on Briceland Road until you reach a fork in the road. Veer left, and eventually the road will turn from paved to dirt. Follow the dirt road for about 4 miles until you reach the visitor's center, which is in a huge clearing in the forest, and provides ideal views of the ocean and coast both north and south.
Cost: You can camp anywhere in the park for $11.00 per night. Day use is $3 per car.
Sinkyone Wilderness State Park has something for nearly anyone who loves the outdoors - and then some. There aren't enough synonyms for phenomenal to describe the overwhelming beauty of the area. If you love camping, backpacking, hiking, wildlife, beaches, ancient redwoods, and escape from the rigors of day to day life, make this area your next excursion (you can thank me later).
List of Necessary Items for Camping the Sinkyone Wilderness:
1. Water purifier for backpackers, bottled water for car campers. There is no potable running water in the park.
2. Leatherman tool or pocket knife.
3. Plastic bags for trash and for hanging food in trees. There are no bears, but a number of thieves (birds, skunks, etc.) can easily make off with your food if you're not careful.
4. Lightweight tent.
5. Sleeping bag.
6. Fire Source.
7. Several layers of clothing - You don't need to make a fashion statement, but bring enough clothing to keep yourself warm at night. The temperature can drop at night even during the summer due to proximity to the ocean.
8. Toilet paper - Very important - and be sure if you run out that you don't use poison oak as a substitute - OUCH!
9. Camping food - I have a suggestion that works very well for me, but you have to like Indian food. There is a brand of Indian food called Tasty Bites, which come in a variety of delicious flavors. They are extremely straightforward to prepare. Simply boil water, and place the precooked food in its package into the water. It's ideal because there is absolutely no preparation, it's delicious, it doesn't dirty any pots, and it comes in rugged bags ideal for stuffing into a backpack. It's not ultra-light weight, but other than that it's hard to beat (it can be eaten cold if you don't want to cook).
10. Ground tarp - Not only do these provide an extra barrier from wetness, they insulate in cold weather conditions.
11. Camera - You'll be taking a lot of pictures - guaranteed. Bring a lightweight disposable if you're worried about damage to your usual camera.
12. Light source - the best of these is a head lamp, which is relatively small in size and can be used while your hands do other things.
13. Day pack - You just need something big enough to accommodate your Leatherman, sunscreen, disposable camera, snacks, etc. Once you set up camp, you won't need your bigger pack.
14. Sunscreen - A definite must.
15. Trail snacks - Dried fruit and nuts are my favorites because they pack easily and won't spoil.
16. Trail map - Luckily, the ocean is nearby making it difficult to lose your bearings, but you could get lost without one.
17. Cookware and eating utensils.
18. Sleeping pad - I would recommend an accordion style pad like the Z-Rest, because they are easy to pack up, are very lightweight, and are actually pretty comfortable. These also provide another layer of insulation from the cold ground.
19. Socks, socks, and more socks - They get wet, sweaty, etc. Putting on new socks after a long hike is one of life's simple pleasures.
Recommended:
Yes
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kifwebe
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Location: :noitacoL
Reviews written: 29
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