Ansel Adams Almost Did It Justice: Yosemite
Written: Mar 28 '05
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Pros: Incredibly breathtaking. I almost feel like I can die happily.
Cons: A lot of nail-biting driving required -- but it is worth it!
The Bottom Line: You can see everything from forests and waterfalls to vistas and mountains. It's all here. And it's simply enchanting!!!
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| Thorbjore's Full Review: Yosemite National Park |
"Look out! Look out!" my new husband shrieked.
A coyote rushed past me. I could have touched it if I swung my arm out at just the right millisecond. My heart palpitated. What a rush. He was a tiny blur at the end of the parking lot before I got my camera out of the bag.
"Look out! Look OUT!" He screamed and pawed at me.
I looked to the left and there it was: a magnificent buck with his rack of antlers pointed down, running straight ahead where the coyote's tail was disappearing into some shrubs. In that moment when he was next to me, his head seemed to tower more than six feet from the ground -- not counting his antlers. Enormous.
I fumbled with my camera and clicked quickly after swirling the focus mechanism. I didn't know at the time if I got it or not.
I got the picture. The deer was next to a suspended, waist-level rope that circled the parking lot and it looked like it came just above the darned thing. A pitiful, dwarf deer. Ha! It's funny what the mind will do.
The next night we saw people abuzz and scurrying around on a wooden patio nearby. We went up to see what was going on, and while they were all looking down, we were looking at them. This resulted in Chris hollering again, his foot just inches from a rattled raccoon that he nearly kicked.
So, you never know what you'll see at Yosemite. With its bear-proof lockers and handouts citing precautions you should take, wild life is something to take quite seriously.
To gain entrance to Yosemite, you must pay $20 per car (covers up to how ever many people you can squeeze into your vehicle), otherwise it is $10 per person (if on a motorcycle, bicycle or on foot, etc). This cover charge buys you 7 days of bliss.
We stayed in Curry Village, centrally located on the valley floor. They have "cabin tents," tents with a proper roof, floor and door. The bedding was uncomfortable cots -- hey, that's what you get -- but it was so DARK and so quiet.
The cost was $65 per night, if I recall, which some may balk at since the accommodations are so rustic and uncomfortable. But when you think about how it gains you rights to such incomparable beauty and well-kept grounds that include an 80+ year old swimming pool with mountain peaks looming overhead -- well, just think about it!
On the grounds is a lodge of sorts where there is a restaurant with a fair to midland buffet we tried. There is also a general store where you can buy overpriced film, beer, souvenirs, and barbecue goodies. (Buy food before you get there and bring it with you in a cooler! It is insanely priced in there). They also home a small post office to send your postcards. Indeed, it is a "village." Sans the men in feathers, leather, police attire and military garb.
Ah, yes. Barbecue goodies. What a concept. And that reminds me: a nice camp fire seems almost necessary when you are camping, doesn't it? Well, we had a heck of a time finding a place to blaze up. There are limited areas where you are allowed to do so (which is understandable with forest fires and people ignoring Smoky's stern lectures on TV). We wound up driving all over, looking for a "rest area" with access to fire pits. We finally found one down the nearby creek. We were actually so hungry by then that we were no longer hungry.
There are cute squirrels all around who will go to any length to get your food. They are not shy. Not at all. Be warned.
So staying in a cabin tent was excitingly worrisome. There are the bears. There are TV sets everywhere with footage of bears raking car trunks, tearing them open like an aluminum can and munching on everything from suntan lotion to potato chips. It seems they will eat anything. You will be issued handouts about the bears and what not to keep in your tent: read that as anything with a scent: toothpaste, suntan oil, food, soda, beer, perfume ... anything. It all needs to go in a bear-proof locker down by the parking lot. Pay heed to these warnings and read the literature carefully. You may have a thrilling edge-of-your-seat story to tell about a close shave -- or you might have a very unpleasant story involving maiming and a lost loved one.
There are hotels available, too, for the people who want a less "out-doorsy" experience. We briefly looked into them and found they were filled to capacity and quite expensive. We were on our honeymoon and, wanting to pamper ourselves entirely, weren't sure we wanted to "do camping." Our cabin tents were a great compromise.
If you are concerned about all the talk of "hiking" and "trails," then worry not. Chris was suffering from a badminton injury to his knee. Yes. Take the time to chuckle and shake your head. I am quite serious!
We spent a lot of time in the car. Fortunately the things to be seen at Yosemite are so majestic and so larger than life, they can often be seen from a distance.
Bridal Veil falls is a great example of this. The rocks it tickles seem to lunge at the sky and can be seen from great distances. It is better to see the falls in the spring after the snow melts. But we went in July and were treated to a lovely white train of mist, swaying softly as a bride's veil might flow and billow (and you may have guessed that's where it got its name!).
We took a tour. The tour "bus" is like an amusement park style train, topless with no windows. You get the one-on-one feel and the fresh air without the hiking. (Note: I am an avid hiker and was heartbroken that we made all these plans to go to Yosemite and he hurt himself. I would like to return to hike and see things up close and personal, but I did have a wonderful time after all and it gave me the experience of sympathizing with older people and those less fortunate. So to those who aren't as mobilized, whether by choice or by age or by misfortune, then don't be deterred. You can still see things!).
The driver pointed out historical points of interest: a place where Teddy Roosevelt liked to camp and an old stage coach pass -- VERY bumpy ride, it looked like!). He brought us down to the valley floor and showed us a creek with dazzling reflections and a poignant sign attesting to how high the flood waters can rise. I photographed the sign with the leveled arrow; it was another man's length above an average man's head. Probably 12 feet or so that was submerged in water.
The tram took us up a winding road with views of Ponderosa pines far below. At the top we stopped and were permitted to walk around and enjoy the view.
He showed us rock climbers inching up the face of El Capitain. It was a memorable experience and I learned a lot. No matter what your fitness level, I highly recommend taking a tour. They are everywhere.
We took a late afternoon "sunset" tour. The shadows from the sheer majesty of the mountains and the lazing afternoon sun drenched everything in black and gold; contrasted with the pale gray stone and fir greens, I highly recommend it.
We were only there for two nights en route to San Francisco from Las Vegas. We missed the Sequoias (my big disappointment) among other things. But like I said: I plan to return!
As I've said, we were there in early July. There were people around, but it didn't seem crowded at all. We had no problem getting our cabin tent, but I would highly recommend making reservations. More so if you plan to stay in a lodge or hotel.
Here is the address to the home page: http://www.governmentguide.com/govsite.adp?bread=*Main&url=http%3A//www.governmentguide.com/ams/clickThruRedirect.adp%3F55076483%2C16920155%2Chttp%3A//www.nps.gov/yose/home.htm
Be prepared to drive a LONG time. The park is enormous and the roads wind perilously close to guard rails with oblivion beyond, so you MUST take it slow. And look for pull-off's and large shoulders to park on -- there are plenty of them -- and do your rubbernecking with your emergency break pulled tightly and your car in park. There is so much to see, from the Sequoias to the mountain tops. Don't miss a thing! But be safe!
Speaking of safe, do take the wild life seriously. Deer seem so benign and gentle, but our tour guide told us a sad story about a misguided father putting his son on one's back. The deer killed the four-year old and hoofed the father to death who tried to protect him. Stay away from ALL the animals. It is easy to think of the animals as the tame ones we see up close at petting zoos, but they are neither tame nor in a petting zoo.
And bring your camera. Take tons and tons of pictures. If you're an Ansel Adams fan, this is seeing first hand what inspired him. And you'll Understand. (As an aside, they have an "Ansel Adams Photography School" there where you can take an overpriced photography work shop).
Thanks for reading!
Recommended:
Yes
Best time to go: June-August
Recommended for: Anybody
Review Topic: Overview
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Epinions.com ID:
Thorbjore
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Member: Becki
Location: Pittsfield, MA USA
Reviews written: 88
Trusted by: 74 members
About Me:
Worry looks around. Sorry looks back. Faith looks up.
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