Assateague Island is a 37-mile long barrier island on the east coast, straddling the Maryland-Virginia state line. The island is divided into three distinct -- and roughly equal -- parts: the northernmost tip is a Maryland state park. The middle section, extending southward to the state line, is a National Seashore, run by the U.S. Park Service. The southern section, from the state line to the horn at the island's tip, is Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge.


Getting to Assateague and Chincoteague Islands...
There are two gateways to the island: the bridge off Maryland route 611, about 10 miles south of US 50 where it enters Ocean City, and the bridge from Chincoteague Virginia, about another 20-30 miles south. 


Parks of Assateague Island...
The northern section of Assateague Island is generally more accessible, more developed, and more often visited than the southern section. Campgrounds, picnic grounds, bathhouses, and marked trails dominate the northern part of the island. It is also possible to get an off-road vehicle permit that allows you to take your 4WD truck onto certain parts of the beach. These permits are fairly expensive, and available only if your vehicle meets certain equipment standards.

Tent and RV camping is available in both the National Seashore and the Maryland state park area. The National Seashore also offers remote hike-in or canoe-in sites for tent campers, and offers backcountry permits for backpackers who want to trek down the beach in search for sites far from the maddening crowds.

The great thing about Assateague is that it's so big, and the development is really clustered in only a small area, that it's easy to hike a bit and quickly escape the crowds. Walk about 10-15 minutes and you'll easily find a spot where you'll see nary a soul. Just you, the ponies, and the ubiquitous seagulls, begging for scraps. The one thing to keep in mind before starting your walk though is to make sure you've got everything you need before setting out since there won't be any boardwalk shops to duck into for a bottle of Pepsi or a jar of sunblock.


Beaches on Assateague Island...
The beach is pretty nice. Long, wide and sandy with lots of dunes, and of course, ponies. The sand is a bit brown and course, but no more so than any other U.S. Atlantic coast beach. It's also somewhat dirty at times when trash, seaweed, or dead things wash up on shore...


Assateague Chincoteague Ponies...
Of course the big draw for Assateague is the herd of wild ponies who live on the island. Last time I was there, the rangers claimed to have about 160 horses in the herd. Each July, the horses are rounded up and forced to swim the channel to the town of Chincoteague Virginia where some ponies are auctioned off with proceeds going to the local fire department.

While the horses dominate the attention of visitors, there is lots of other wildlife on the island. These dinky little deer are all over the place, and the island is a breeding ground for various species of birds, plus serves as a stopping point for various migratory bird species. Info about the animals is available from the rangers on the northern end of the island, or from the wildlife specialists on the southern end. Don't be surprised if you're sitting on the beach minding your own business and a few ponies come trotting up the beach!

Keep in mind that with three different agencies managing different parts of the island, different rules and regulations apply along with different fees to enter the park or use facilities. The one constant seems to be the "Do Not Feed Horses" signs, which everyone ignores. Last time I was there, I saw a woman in a Volkswagon holding a bag of Doritos out the window...


Where to Stay Near Assateague and Chincoteague:
Of course campgrounds are ideal for anyone who loves nature (and doesn't mind a few million mosquito bites). The northern end offers plenty of camping areas, but they are popular in the summer. Camping costs about $10 per night.

For hotels, the obvious choice on the northern end of the island is to jaunt up to Ocean City, which has hundreds of hotels in every price range and quality level, from luxury condos on the north end, to the seedy fleabags of the south end.

A great option to these is to check in to a bed and breakfast. The best (and one of the closest) is the Atlantic Hotel in nearby Berlin, Maryland. The Atlantic is a renovated Victorian era (1895) hotel that's furnished with period pieces and that features an outstanding (though expensive) restaurant and piano bar. I've stayed here a couple times and found it to be first rate, and a nice change from the hustle and bustle and crowds of downtown Ocean City.

There are also some excellent bed and breakfast inns in Snow Hill, Maryland, located a few miles further, and there are a couple of nice bed and breakfast inns in Chincoteague, Virginia.


Bottom Line
Assateague Island is a wonderful park, and a great alternative to the heavy commercialization and crowds of Ocean City. Although the beach areas near the parking lots and campgrounds get pretty crowded, you can easily walk a mile or so down the beach and feel like you're the only person on the island. I recommend Assateague highly to anyone who loves the beach and who wants to experience a more natural barrier island setting.


Recommended: Yes