Glacier National Park or What I Did on My Summer Vacation
Written: Jul 10 '01 (Updated Jul 13 '01)
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Pros: Plenty of trails and soul-calming scenery
Cons: Short season and out-of-the-way location
The Bottom Line: Plenty of trails and soul-calming scenery more than compensate for the short season and out-of-the-way location
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| GuruGirl's Full Review: Glacier National Park |
Prologue
It was really a fluke that we ended up at Glacier. It seems so out of the way, tucked up in the corner like that. Who would go there. I don't know what possessed us to think that we could drive from Chicago to western Montana without stopping. It really wasn't a smart decision, but it was one of the most fortunate mistakes I have ever made.
General info + me gushing...
Glacier National Park is perhaps one of the few wilderness parks in the U.S. that hasn't been spoiled by tourists. Glacier is less popular than Yosemite or Yellowstone, but equally grand and awe-inspiring. Contrary to what you might expect, there are very few glaciers left in GNP, the name actually derives from the geology of the region which was created by glaciers millions of years ago. With peaceful lakes and snow capped peaks year-round, the views are like nothing else. But that's why it's a national park. To take advantage of the scenery there are trails for every level of hiker from a short, wheelchair-accessible path through a Cedar grove, to multiple day hikes repleat with a chalet at the summit. In addition, there are horses, canoes, paddleboats, kiyaks, and rowboats that you can rent for a resonable price and take out onto the lakes. (N.B. You can't take the horses on the lake)
Scary cliffs and Twice the park!
There are two parts to the park, the West Glacier/Lake McDonald area and the St. Mary's area. The two areas are separated by a mountain range, and each has its own lake. To get from one to the other you must drive up and down the Going to the Sun Road, which is an event in itself. It climbs to an elevation of almost 10,000 feet; the view is spectacular on a clear day. If you are uneasy about driving on narrow winding roads with thousand foot cliffs, or you think your vehicle might object to a little torture, you can drive around the park on the highway to get to the other side. There are usually buses that go up the pass frequently, but due to the fact that they are about 50 years old, they were temporarily stopped for repairs. According to the website, the red buses are back running. The only other way to get to the highest point in Glacier National Park is to hike.
breakdown
The main part of the park is on the Lake McDonald side. There are a few (expensive) sundry and supply stores as well as a couple restaurants. There are several hotels in this part of the park, as well (I'll get to that later). St. Mary's is smaller and has fewer stores and lodges, but offers a different view of the landscape. St. Mary's is also less crowded if you want to go out on the lake.
Wildlife
There's bears in them thar hills! And chipmunks and mountain goats and all sorts of birds... And wild flowers like you wouldn't believe. Seriously, there are bears, but chances are you won't see them. You will see the other wildlife in the park, though. You can get a checklist of the different species of flora and fauna from any of the visitor's centers. Fishing is also allowed in the park's stocked lakes, but you have to get a permit. Check with the park on rates and seasons.
running around in the woods
I have to recommend the trail to Fish Lake. It is about a 6 mile r.t. hike to a secluded lake, but the grade isn't too bad, so you can still do it if you haven't hiked all that much. Bring a picnic lunch and enjoy all the sights, sounds and smells of the forest.
safety disclaimer
There are rangers everywhere when you are near the visitor's centers, but once you get out onto the trails, it's just you and the trees. Just be prepared. *When hiking it is imperative that you bring water. Lots of it. More than you think you need. Even on a short walk it is important to keep drinking. Poor hydration causes cramping and exhaustion. The worst is that it is easy not to notice until the symptoms have kicked in. *Pace yourself. Start with an easy hike like the on to John's Lake. If you don't know, ask. The rangers are there to give you advice on which trails to choose so use them. *Even though the trails are clearly marked, you could take a wrong turn, so bring a detailed trail map. And know your route before hand. *The weather can also change quickly. Dress in layers and bring a snack like nuts or jerky. *If you have a cell phone, bring it, and remember to charge it. I have Sprint and was pleased to find that I still got decent reception even in the mountains.
so it's not perfect
One of the drawbacks to this park is the brevity of the season. The weather is mild enough only in mid-summer and even then a cold snap can mandate a coat in the middle of the day. For example, I went in July and one of the days the Going to the Sun road was closed due to snow and ice.
Because the window is so small, some of the holiday weekends can get booked up well in advance, so plan ahead. Even with all the people in the hotels, the park itself is surprisingly uncrowded. The week of July 4th is the busiest of the season (of course that is the week I went). Nevertheless, we had the trails to ourselves on all but the most popular hikes.
Lodging
It can be a frustrating experience to find a hotel room in Glacier National Park during peak season, especially if you are coming from far away. I was fortunate to come upon a wonderful little motel about 5 minutes from the park. The owners are curteous and friendly and offer a little local flavor. For a modest price you get a beautifully rustic room with wood paneling and a great view, as well as home cooked breakfast every morning. The Tamarack Lodge is perfect for a weekend in the wilderness. Simple yet comfortable. I would recommend it highly to anyone considering a stay near the park. The in-the-park accomadations are closer, but get booked up very quickly. Tamarack has the edge over the in-the-park hotels in price and quality, so the short ride to Glacier is worth the trip!
Glacier is Great!
If you are looking for an outdoor vacation to ease the city out of your bones, a romantic get-away, or even a place to take the kids, this is a must-see. There are so many beautiful places in this country, but Glacier National Park definitely ranks among the best of the best.
The Glacier National Park website is a fantastic resource for trail maps and information about the park. http://www.nps.gov/glac
Recommended:
Yes
Best time to go: June-August
Review Topic: Overview
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GuruGirl
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Member: elysha
Reviews written: 28
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Chi troppo vuole nulla stringe
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