Saying "Goodbye" to the Old Man at Franconia Notch State Park
Written: May 04 '03 (Updated Nov 05 '09)
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Pros: beautiful scenery, and still plenty to do now that The Old Man is gone
Cons: it will always feel like something is missing when I visit from now on
The Bottom Line: Although New Hampshire lost its icon last week, the park is still a beautiful place to visit.
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| AliventiAsylum's Full Review: Franconia Notch State Park |
Men hang out their signs indicative of their respective trades; shoemakers hang out a gigantic shoe; jewelers a monster watch, and the dentist hangs out a gold tooth; but in the mountains of New Hampshire, God Almighty has hung out a sign to show that there He makes men.
- Daniel Webster
Sometime on either Thursday, May 1, 2003 or Friday, May 2, 2003, the state of New Hampshire lost its glorious icon. Having traveled to this state annually for what seems like my entire life, The Old Man was a part of my history. I can remember numerous times stopping at the pull-off and looking at nature's random sculpture in a granite mountain. How incredible it seemed that something like this could somehow occur by accident in nature! It was a thrill to put a quarter into the viewer and get that close-up look, especially as a child.
The last time we drove through here was just this past February. I'd never driven through the area in the winter before. Never being opposed to taking "the long way home" just for a new and different experience, I decided to drive this way on our way home from the ski area. Though I pointed The Old Man out to my children in the car, we didn't stop because of the weather. It's something I shall now always regret.
The question for many now may be, "Should I still visit Franconia Notch State Park?" The answer is a resounding YES! There is much more to this park than just The Old Man of the Mountain. Though he will be greatly missed, there are many other activities in this park to occupy a day.
Franconia Notch State Park is easy to get to. Interstate 93 runs directly through it, although it's known as Franconia Notch Parkway inside of the park. The park itself is nestled between the Kinsman and Franconia mountain ranges, granite mountains formed millions of years ago.
Coming from the south, out of Lincoln, the first place to stop inside the park is at the Flume Gorge & Visitor's Center. The Flume was discovered in 1808 by a 93-year-old lady looking for a fishing spot. It is a natural gorge with sides rising up to 800 feet at the base of Mount Liberty. There is a wooden boardwalk built above the flume and along the granite walls allowing an easier time of viewing Avalanche Waterfalls, but this is not a trail that is for those physically challenged. The entire loop through the flume to the waterfall and back to the visitor's center is approximately 2 miles. Although not a terribly difficult trip (I had no trouble with my 2 year old walking it last year, except for occasionally having to carry him because he was tired), it can be a bit long and not all of it is smooth boardwalk. There are occasions when there are rather steep uphill climbs and stairs. It's a fascinating walk with all sorts of little things to see if you're observant enough to stop and smell the roses.
Cost to walk The Flume is $8 for adults, and $5 for children ages 6-12. 5 and under are free. The Flume is open from early May until late October, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., 5:30 p.m. in July and August. Even if it's unseasonably warm late in the fall or early in the spring, you won't find The Flume open, since the boardwalk is removed! This is done to prevent damage from the ice that forms two feet thick on the walls of the gorge during the winter.
At the Visitor's Center itself is a movie (free) that serves as sort of an introduction to the area. It was a nice way to relax for a few minutes after we walked the gorge. I'd highly recommend it to anyone as it made me once again get interested in hiking in the area - something I hadn't done since I was in my late teens with a group of friends. I now can't wait for my youngest to get just a bit older so that I can face some of the trails without having to worry about carrying him. There are refreshments available here, as well as a gift shop.
Proceeding north from The Flume, we next came upon The Basin. This is a nice pull-off with picnic tables and walking paths, and a beautiful view of a waterfall. At the bottom of the waterfall is a granite pothole which has been smoothed over the years by the rocks and pebbles coming out of the Pemigewasset River. Below The Basin is a rock formation which is known as The Old Man's Foot.
Traveling north again, the next landmark you'll encounter is Boise Rock. It's notable for the fact that Thomas Boise took shelter under the rock during a blizzard. It's a nice stopping area with picnic tables and a beautiful spring from which there is cool water on even the hottest of days.
Finally, our next stop is the pull-off for where The Old Man of the Mountain used to be until this past weekend. It was actually made up of five granite ledges arranged horizontally which formed the famous profile. It rose 1,200 feet on the mountainside, and measured 40 feet tall and 25 feet wide.
There is still something to see here, as at the base of The Old Man's mountain is a small lake known as Profile Lake. Across the road from Profile Lake used to be a great landslide scar I can remember from my younger days here. Now, of course, it's all grown over. Looking north from where The Old Man used to be, you'll find a rock formation which looks like a cannon sticking out from a fortress - the is where Cannon Mountain got its name from.
Cannon Mountain is the next stop on the northbound trip. Here there is an aerial tramway which takes you up to the 4,180 foot summit in just 8 minutes. On a clear day the view truly seems to go on forever. There are walking paths, an observation deck as well as a cafeteria and restrooms at the summit. Cost for the tram is $10 for an adult round-trip, and $ 6 for children ages 6-12 round trip, with 5 and under free. Should you want to take a tram to the summit and hike down (or vice-versa, although hiking down is the easier way to go), the cost is just $8. Trams run from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. from mid-may until mid-October for the summer season.
At the base of Cannon Mountain is Echo Lake Beach where your family can swim and play in the sand. There is an entrance fee of $3 for anyone over 12 years of age. Canoe and kayak rentals are also available at a cost of $10 per hour.
In the winter this doubles as a ski area, and as you're sitting on the beach at Echo Lake you can see the ski trails and imagine the skiers sliding down all around you.
In the area are numerous campgrounds for tenters and RV'ers alike. Rates vary, so I'd check them out independently. Within the park itself is the Cannon Mountain RV Park with only seven sites, so it probably fills up very fast. The sites have 3-way hookups, a picnic table, and fire ring. Reservations can be made by phone at 603-271-3628.
Lafayette Campground provides 97 tent sites. There is a small lodge where you register and can grab a few supplies, but other than that it's a fairly rustic experience. Each site has a fireplace and picnic table. There are coin-operated showers nearby as well. If you're an avid hiker, either of these campgrounds would make a great base from which to start and return.
That's one of the best aspects of Franconia Notch State Park - the hiking trails. I hiked a few of them in my youth - including one up near The Old Man. The Visitor's Center can help out with trail information, or there are numerous books out there about the hiking trails.
Already there is talk of "rebuilding" The Old Man, but I just don't see how it will be the same. An icon from nature is not the same thing as an icon that is man-made. Nature gives, and nature takes away. In this case, the time for The Old Man to rule from his mountain has passed. Like other icons that have disappeared, it will be remembered with its likeness around for years, most recently on the New Hampshire State quarter.
Other sites to see in New Hampshire:
Attitash Bear Peak Ski Resort ~ Bretton Woods Ski Resort ~ Canobie Lake Park ~ Cranmore Mountain Ski Resort ~ Kancamagus Highway ~ King Pine Ski Resort ~ Loon Mountain Ski Resort ~ Madison Boulder Natural Area ~ Mount Washington Cog Railway ~ North Conway, NH ~ Polar Express Event ~ Shawnee Peak, Bridgeton ME ~ Six Gun City ~ Story Land ~ Whale's Tale Waterpark ~ White Lake State Park ~ White Mountain National Forest ~ Wildcat Mountain
Some places to stay in New Hampshire:
Attitash Mountain Village - Bartlett NH ~ Comfort Inn & Suites - North Conway NH ~ Hampton Inn - Concord/Bow NH ~ Yankee Clipper Motel
Places to eat in New Hampshire:
Bea's Cafe, Conway NH ~ Cafe Noche, Conway NH ~ Decades Steakhouse, North Conway NH ~ Delaney‘s Hole in the Wall, North Conway NH ~ Harts Turkey Farm, Meredith NH ~ May Kelly's Cottage, North Conway NH ~ Merlino's Steakhouse, North Conway NH ~ Moat Mountain Smokehouse, North Conway NH ~ Muddy Moose, North Conway NH ~ Peach's Restauran, North Conway NH ~ Red Parka Steakhouse & Pub, Glen NH ~ Yankee Smokehouse, West Ossipee NH
Books about the area:
Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide ~ 50 Hikes in the White Mountains
© 2003 Patti Aliventi
Recommended:
Yes
Best time to go: June-August
Recommended for: Anybody
Review Topic: Overview
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AliventiAsylum
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Member: Patti Aliventi
Location: Mount Washington Valley, New Hampshire
Reviews written: 2118
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Now writing reviews to pay for the "out of network" costs of our health insurance...
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