MONTAUK POINT STATE PARK and LIGHTHOUSE, It's the END
Written: Jun 13 '03 (Updated Apr 12 '06)
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Pros: Natural beauty, world class surf fishing, a Lighthouse with national status
Cons: Traffic to the east end of Long Island can be endless.
The Bottom Line: This State Park is at the end of Long Islands Southern fork. It has a few surprises I want to tell you about.
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| popsrocks's Full Review: Montauk Point State Park |
Let me warn you right now. If it's just the park you want to know about skip over then next few paragraphs and go directly to the ENTERING THE PARK section. If you want to learn a bit about getting there and the area read on.
Over the years I have been to Montauk Point many times. As a young teen I remember my dad taking me out there a few times cod fishing off one of the boats of the Viking Fishing Fleet. At about seventeen I was out there with a buddy swimming, surfing, scuba diving, and getting lobster from the jetties. I don't know how legal it was but we sold them for $$ to exist.
I was married at twenty one and my wife and I have been going out there for get-away weekends for years. We have also been out there with the family.
Just about every time we go to the town we would travel the extra five or six miles to get to the Lighthouse. It is on federally owned land inside a State Park. The state parks name is Montauk Point State Park. It's more than just that now. I'll tell you about the exciting new addition a bit later.
ON THE WAY OUT BY CAR
Most people travel out by car. You will pass through the Hampton's area. These are nice little towns with high prices and city folk. Many TV and movie stars hang out here in the summer. Continue through them and as you near the point you will pass a few vineyards that are open for tours and tasting. On the way back be sure to stop at one of the many fruit and vegetable stands selling local produce.
Traveling through the east end towns you will be passing many antique shops, specialty shops, and art galleries. Fine dining is easily found in these towns. Some simple food too. In fact you will know you are almost to Montauk when you pass a small eatery on the right hand side of the road with a sign saying, "LUNCH". This no name place that has been around for years and years is noted for its lobster rolls. Another couple of hundred feet east and on the left is another small place that has been around forever. It has a simple sign that states, "CLAM BAR".
At one point soon after you get to a split in the road. Take the left or right and they get you to the same place, the town of Montauk. I suggest taking the right fork, hey that's the "low road" but what else did you expect from me.
Anyways, this is the road that is closer to the ocean and it passes Hither Hills State Park. They have, hard to get, camping on the beach there. Go in and have a look. I'll tell you a bit later how to get in for free and not spend the extra $6.00 admission.
Once the roads come back together you see the small, simple town of Montauk. Nothing pretentious here. You'll find some nice places to eat but nothing snobbish. There is a little bakery there where we always make an early morning stop. Many motels on the beach and across the road from the beach are here. I'll tell you a bit more about the town of Montauk later. It's about time that we get to Montauk State Park. Well almost time.
It's interesting that from Hither Hills State park to Montauk State Park which is just a six mile distance you will encounter three other state parks. First is a brand new one that just opened this year. It's called Shadmoor State Park. About one hundred feet east of it is the turn for Montauk Downs State Park. This one is noted for its world class Golf Course. I had a bit of trouble in this park though. I will tell you about it and Shadmoor in the reviews I do of those parks in the next week or two.
As you drive you will pass Deep Hollow Ranchnoted as the "Oldest Cattle Ranch in the United States. That's a fact!! Hey were do you think cattle ranching started. Like the people of this nation it was in the east and then went west. This place also does a huge business of horse back riding on trails and on the beaches. You will see many guys and gals all dressed up in their cowboy gear of boots, jeans, and hats.
OK, you are just a mile or so away. Check out the sign and drive slow. There are deer crossing signs and horse riding signs near the bridle paths. Up until recently there were TURTLE CROSSING signs. I don't know if they were taken as souvenirs or maybe the turtles never read them anyways and walked across the road where ever they pleased.
Yes, over the years I have seen many turtles crossing the road in this area.
ENTERING THE PARK
You continue on and then you see the entrance to Montauk Point State Park. It goes to the right and then circles around a parking lot. But wait! it's not that simple. A fairly new sign is posted too! It says Camp Hero State Park. But I thought we were in Montauk State Park? We are but now we have a new place. This is a pretty exciting destination, at least I think so. I will review it soon but let me just tell you..... No, you will get that info a bit later. Let me do this properly.
Continue around the curve and you see another sign, Montauk Lighthouse National Historic Site. Pass the sign and continue on till you see the small building at the entrance to the parking lots on the left. This is where they take your vehicle use fee. They charge you $6.00 for parking. The lower lot that takes cars, campers, RV's and Buses, has picnic tables and restrooms. The upper lot is cars only and brings you closer to the lighthouse.
Just a quick note. You can purchase an Empire Pass if you believe you will be frequenting the State parks often. It can be purchased for $59.00. The only place out east to get it is in Montauk Downs State Park. Ok now, heres the deal. If you pay your six dollar fee for parking you can use the same little ticket they gave you to legally park in Montauk State Park, Camp Hero State Park, and Hither Hills State Park. There is nothing underhanded about this. It's just the way the deal works.
MONTAUK STATE PARK
Getting out of your car go to the concession stand. It has more restrooms. Inside the building is a gift shop, and small counter selling foods. Hamburgers, hot dogs, grilled chicken, personal pan pizza, fried shrimp, fried calamari, and scallops are some of the items on the menu. Soups, sodas, and beers are also available. Prices for most for the paper plate entrees were five to seven dollars.
There are about eight tables inside the room with a working fireplace that is burning in the winter. Just outside are picnic tables overlooking the vistas below. Before moving on see if you need anything in the gift shop. Hats sweatshirts, t-shirts, lotions, bug sprays,and little lighthouses are there for your buying pleasure.
You will see many, many, shark teeth for sale. Did you know that the shark hunter in the movie Jaws, played by the late Robert Shaw, was based on a real shark hunter who worked out of Montauk Point? Yup, that's a fact!
At the booth where you paid your fee be sure to ask for a map of the trails in the park. There are a few. You can go to the bluffs or slowly stroll through some of the marsh and rocky coast. There are animal viewing stations along some of the trails.
One of the trails goes to Money Pond. It is said that this "bottomless" pond is where Captain Kid hid some of his treasure of gold and silver. Treasure was found on nearby Gardiner's Island. People are still trying to find it here.
You may find some signs in the area warning you about quicksand!! This is for real! Keep a buddy nearby. Ok, lets get the rest of the bad things out of the way. This is tic country and Lyme disease is a reality. Long pants are a good idea along with staying on paths. Mosquitos are sometimes a problem. DO NOT FEED the RACCOONS. You will see many of these signs. It's a good idea not too. Be careful as to leaning to far over on the bluffs. For that matter you shouldn't be too close to the edge anyway. The cliffs do get undermined by the ocean. You wouldn't want to slide on down into the ocean.
OK, now go and have a good time!
Beside hiking and biking some of the trails during the winter, cross country skiing is done. You must bring your own equipment.
This area has a rugged beauty and there are also some very peaceful areas to enjoy the views. There are coin operated binoculars strategically located near the concession stand. With luck you may see seals sunning on the rocks below. Out further is the area where whales go through the area. Some people do see them out there. Special Whalewatcher trips are available in town.
Many people have beach chairs or just towels and then sun on the rocky coast. Others still check out all the hiking trails. Except for on the busiest of summer weekends you can find nice quiet little spots with nothing but the sound of the crashing waves.
I mentioned cast fishing earlier. You will probably see some fisherman going for whatever fish may be passing this area. You have to bring your own gear. The park doesn't have anything to supply you. The town of Montauk has everything you may need.
Update 2004
My wife and I had a terrific time surf fishing at Montauk Point this past September. The Bass were biting and being caught regularly by the fisherman there. My wife caught one, I didn't. We both did get bluefish that were in schools along the shore that provided some wild times and fishing for all those on the shore. This was really a special experience.
end update
Right from the concession stand is a great view and picture of the lighthouse. Be sure to have a camera.
You can make your way to the lighthouse through the parking lot or along some of the trails.
MONTAUK POINT LIGHTHOUSE
This is privately run now by the Montauk Historic Society. These people are doing a fine job of keeping the place up and providing good information about the lighthouse.
There is a separate fee for getting onto these grounds. $6.00 adult, $5.00 Senior, and $4.00 dollars for a child. There is a height restriction for climbing the tower. They have a little cut out lighthouse showing the height.
For the most part the lighthouse is open 10.30 am till 5.00pm every day. There are slight changes in different seasons.
Here are a few quick facts.
The lighthouse was commissioned by President George Washington in 1792.
It was built in 1796.
It was the first lighthouse in New York.
It is the fourth oldest and active lighthouse in the US.
It can be seen at the distance of 15 to 22 nautical miles.
Some of the things to see on the grounds are the lighthouse itself that is 110' tall and the keepers house that is now a museum.
There are no restrooms here. Use the ones in the nearby parking lot or concession stand.
I was impressed at how clean and well manicured the grounds were. Don't forget to look down at the small garden. There has been gardens on this same piece of land every year since the 1700s.
The same neat look followed through to the house. It is well painted, clean, and has polished wood floors that are in excellent condition.
The Keepers House is now a sort of museum. In one room are maps and blue prints of the design of the lighthouse. It also holds some historic pictures. Theodore Roosevelt and his Rough Riders returned from San Juan and Montauk Point was used as a combination, disease control and hospital. We are treated to pictures of him and his men.
There is also a wall with pictures of the Amistad, a boat that had slaves that killed the captain and another man in a revolt on board only to find themselves on trial for murder. In the end they were found not guilty, in that they were considered free men who were just protecting themselves.
Another room has four dioramas showing what the lighthouse and the grounds looked like in 1796 when built and the effects of erosion over the years. It depicts the grounds in 1860, 1903, and again in 1943.
In the central hall is a fifteen foot relief map of Long Island with 28 lighthouses around it. Push a button, the lighthouse lites and a brief piece of information is given about it.
There is a room with the original lenses that were in the tower. They are huge. The new one looks like a little plug in strobe light in comparison.
The last of the downstairs rooms showed what the keeper's quarters may have looked like and the another room houses a small gift shop.
You also have the opportunity to climb the 137 steps up to the beacon. The lights have been changed a few times over the years. It seems there is a bit of controversy as to the last change that was done just last year. A smaller, much more energy efficient light was put in. It sends out a finer beam. There are some who say it just doesn't do as good a job as the older one. It is a bit of a disappointment seeing this tiny light at the top of the structure.
The climb is not all that difficult. There are a couple of landings where you may catch your breath if needed. This is where others can pass going up and down. The stairs are winding and narrow.
The help at the museum and in the tower were extremely friendly, knowledgeable, and outgoing. They fielded all my questions including why the fog horn doesn't sound so loud. It seems they had a new one installed. The old one could be heard from two miles away. The new one is a "one miler". Like the new light, it is now more environmentally correct.
After coming back down there is still more to see. I had seen the shorter white building for years and never paid it much mind. It is the Fire Control Station. I never really understood why it was a separate building and had a view out to sea rather than the surrounding forest. Well silly me found out it has nothing to do with "forest fires". It is a place where co-ordinates could be given to fire cannon at enemy ships!
HUGE GUNS HIDDEN UNDERGROUND IN THE WOODS
There are nearby batteries that were built during the second world war. This area was very restricted. This area that became part of the coastal defense system is now the new state park by the name of Camp Hero. That was the other park right next door to this one when coming in. The park was just opened last year and I have a lot to tell you about it. Look for a review on in in the next few days. Just a bit of information. This site also became a secret site of the first real computer run defense system in the US during the cold war. There still may be unexploded ordnance around in the area too. Look for my review of Camp Hero at the end of this piece.
One thing I failed to really give much time to is the surf fishing. The point gives some of the best surf fishing in the world especially in September and October. We did some out of Turtle Cove at the point. Huge bass and blue fish were being brought in at a pace of at least one a minute with the combined efforts of about twenty fishermen at the site. Just ask anyone at the park where this area is and they will tell you. Actually, it's on the map they give at the entrance.
OTHER SITES in the AREA
This area has places to rent bikes and boats. The Montauk Harbor has one of the biggest fishing fleets in the world. It is also a haven for little specialty shops and good fish restaurants. There are many hotels motels, and B&B's.
CLOSING THOUGHTS
I have enjoyed weekends and weeks staying out in this area. Montauk Point State Park and the lighthouse are always there and is a very interesting place to go if even to just quietly hike and enjoy the ocean breezes.
The Harborside Motel In Montauk
The Lobster Roll, better known simply as "LUNCH"
Gosman's Dock Restaurant
Gosman's Topside Restaurant
Gosman's Clam Bar
MONTAUK, It's The End
Montauk Point State Park and Lighthouse History, Fishing, Scenery, and quiet hikes.
Montauk Downs State Park Creature comforts and games
Camp Hero State Park A military base with secrets!
Hither Hills State Park Camping on the beach
Shadmore State Park It's Crude!
The Hamptons Long Island's upscale getaway place.
Block Island A wonderful day trip from Montauk
The Maize Maze in Bridgehampton Family Fun!
Jones Beach State ParkOur treasure, just five minutes from home
Fire Island National Seashore and Lighthouse
Long Island So much to so many
Freeport's Nautical Mile An amusing and amazing destination with dozens of fine restaurants.
Nautical Mile Restaurants and Attractions
Cafe by the Sea Good menu and great desserts. Fun entertainment too!
RACHEL'S Waterside Grill Fine Fare on Freeport's Nautical Mile
Otto's Sea Grill On the Nautical Mile. Right on the water.
Ralph's Italian Ices a favorite on the canal.
The South Street Seaport @ Freeport a simple and very informative maritime museum.
This list will be growing in the next few months. Be sure to keep checking back.
Other Long Island Restaurants
Romano's MACARONI GRILL
TGI Friday's
OUTBACK Restaurant
Cheesecake Factory
Red Lobster
Cozymel's
Wendy's
The White Castle
KFC
Cold Stone Creamery
Recommended:
Yes
Best time to go: Anytime
Recommended for: Anybody
Review Topic: Overview
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