I'll whap whiney five-year-olds with my Thermarest for feeding the friendly rodents.
Written: Jun 22 '01
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Pros: A place of awesome, spectacular beauty. They've got some damn good rocks.
Cons: Really, really full of really, really irritating people.
The Bottom Line: There is a reason this is a National Park. You should go find out why, if you enjoy the outdoors. This ain't no country club.
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| niccy6's Full Review: Bryce Canyon National Park |
My favorite part of Bryce Canyon National Park definitely has to be the Sunset campground. None of that fancy-schmancy noisy and obtrusive RV lot at the North campground for me (although it does provide easy access on foot to many of the breathtaking viewpoints of the main Amphitheater). No, I prefer to rough it in my squatty tent on a three-quarter length ultralight Thermarest. Not to get off track or anything, but the Thermarest is quite possibly the finest addition to any adventure into the outdoors.
Anyway, during my recent visit to this spectacular park I spent a good deal of time sitting in my chair (fashioned with some straps attached to the aforementioned Thermarest—the perfect fit for my hiney when created with the smaller ultralight) gawking at my neighbors. Well, at least that’s where I was whenever I wasn’t out enjoying the wonder of the rocks in that part of the world. By the way, they’ve got themselves some pretty spectacular rocks around there. They even call the formations by funny names. Hoodoos. Ha! The campground, though, it was something else.
I like to spy on the neighbors.
On one side of us was a newlywed couple. They didn’t leave their one-man backpacking bivy for two whole days. I must say I was glad I didn’t hear a peep out of them. Consideration for those around you is really a virtue in this modern world. On the other side were two sets of bikers. Hondas not Harleys, but bikers all the same. The amount of stuff they were able to pull out of their tiny trailers was far beyond spectacular. I must say I am amazed by the wealth of material goods that can be transported by motorcycle. Yep, I sure am. Huge tents, multiple coolers, big green Coleman™ stoves, lanterns, toolboxes, a variety of leather goods, and a vast array of matching western shirts, just to get started.
But I am about to forget the most astounding group. They were camped right across the drive. The five gym-hardened, late twenties, outdoorsy-with-far-too-much-cash dudes. They rolled in late one afternoon in a horrifically large and top-heavy SUV (Toyota, I believe) AND a monstrous white Chevy van of the business/delivery variety. After pulling the five top-of the line mountain bikes off the SUV’s roof and going on a two hour ride, they proceeded to set up camp. Out came nylon sack after nylon sack. Each of them set up his own tent and piled nylon sacks inside. I did overhear some conversation regarding Thermarests and I was glad. These boys would need a good night’s sleep after driving all the way from Virginia (as their license plates told me).
A little later, their campfire was roaring and the benches had been pulled out of the van for seating (of this I could not really approve. I knew they had Thermarests, which fold into a very comfortable chair). The scent of weenies roasting wafted my way, and I knew they were of the species homosapius dudus because they were not eating a balanced (or even healthy) meal. I guess they made up for it with the gallons of Gatorade they rabidly consumed. At least I know they got a good night’s sleep on their Thermarests.
The rocks are amazing . . .
. . . but you are surrounded by far too many people like my neighbors (well, other than the honeymooning couple) and all the folks from that “other” campground and all of the surrounding far too Old-West touristy hotels. This is also not a place for the handicapped (probably not the pc term, but since they change daily I’m not going to sweat it). The viewpoints attempt to be wheelchair accessible, but I’m not sure that they always succeed. While the view from the viewpoints is spectacular, I don’t think you get a feeling for the true enormity of the rock formations until you hike down amongst them. Our first hike was the Queen’s Garden/Navajo Loop combo. It was a great hike—moderately challenging, and fairly short (I appear to have misplaced my trail guide, but I think it was about three miles to do the hike and circle back to Sunrise Point on the Rim Trail). However, the slews of people were very irritating to my “Trying To Get Away From It All” self.
There were huge groups of Asian men packing an incredible amount of camera gear to get just the right picture of a rock. Guys, take your point-and-shoot and stop blocking the trail. Then there were the families. I can understand doing a moderately challenging hike with junior high or high school kids. However, don’t expect your five-year-old to keep up. He will whine (or worse) which is not really a treat for anyone else on the trail. A great number of people also fail to bring the basic necessities: 1) water, 2) snacky treats, and 3) proper footwear. These things should be obvious. Although you aren’t going far, you are headed to the backcountry. It is southern Utah desert. It is hot. Water and electrolytes are your friends. This ain’t no city sidewalk. Boots not flip-flops are in order. Take my word for it. Especially if you have whiney five-year olds.
The formation they (in this case “they” is defined as the National Parks Service) call Wall Street (a long, steep channel with towering cliffs on either side) is one of the most incredible things you will see in nature, even in Red Rock country. However, try to go off season. It’s hard enough to make sure you aren’t going to slip and tumble over the rock face, you don’t want to have to worry about stepping on whiney five-year-olds. If you have to go in the summer, try really painfully early in the morning. Wall Street is right at the beginning (or end) of the Navajo Loop.
My advice on how to avoid the crowds is to avoid the main amphitheater altogether. Undoubtedly the best trail in the park is the Fairyland Loop. The trailhead is before the park entrance, so if you were wont to be a rule breaker, you wouldn’t have to pay the $20.00 fee (this is something I do not endorse—the National Parks Service does good work). The trail is deserted, and is much more accessible to the actual rocks (as well as having a mellower grade). This loop would be the most fun as a two-day backpacking trip, so make sure to apply for your backcountry permit early. They go fast. Make sure to bring along a Thermarest.
The wildlife is, well, wild.
The park is overrun with squirrels or tiny chipmunks, or some sort of rodent. They are very friendly. They want to eat your snacky treats. So does the rest of the wildlife in the area. Don’t feed them. It is bad. It is very bad. Don’t let your whiney five-year-old feed them either. Keep your snacky treats locked up in plastic boxes or in your car. Don’t keep your snacky treats in a nylon bag. If your snacky treats are in a nylon bag, hang it from a tree a la bear country measures.
In conclusion
My travelling companion on this trip did not appreciate the Thermarest. I am dismayed and thinking that my fifty-something-year old mother spends too much time worrying about the flexibility of her hips. Hard ground with a miniscule foam pad is better than just hard ground, dammit, and she even has the extra-long original Thermarest. Suck it up, momma. That’s what I say. The ground at the Sunset campground is hard, but it is a great place to stay to spy on your neighbors and enjoy some darn fine rocks.
Recommended:
Yes
Best time to go: March-May
Recommended for: Thrillseekers
Review Topic: Overview
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Epinions.com ID:
niccy6
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Member: Amy
Location: Boise, Idaho
Reviews written: 43
Trusted by: 42 members
About Me:
Monster trucks rule.
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