LSMillers's Full Review: Breville Cafe Roma ESP8XL Espresso Machine
We use this machine to make great capuccinos every morning, after having returned a DeLonghi BAR 42 model that wouldn't generate sufficient steam pressure. Be sure to check out the steam pressure rating -- this one is 15 bars, more than sufficient to produce good foam. This may likely be the best performing model within its price range. The die cast model costs twice as much, and we were told by a factory representative that the internal mechanisms of both models were the same. However, the latter unit DOES look a lot prettier.
Controls
The controls are simple, and can be figured out in 2 minutes tops. There is an on-off switch, a rotating knob to go from espresso to steam, and that's it! There's also a off-on light that indicates when the unit is ready to produce either steam or espresso.
Water tank and level indicator
The tank is removable, but you'll never need to take it out. If you DO take it out, be sure to PUSH it down firmly when you put it back. We didn't on our first use and the machine wouldn't operate.
You'll need to fill it for every other two-cup capuccino production, but we fill it with each use just to be on the safe side. The level indicator is on the right side of the machine and is essentially useless, as you can't see inside unless you open the lid on the top and look down.
Steam and Frothing
No need to adjust the steam level as it's full-blast when activated. This isn't a problem, as you just bury the steam head further into the milk to reduce the foam production. A removable rubber sleeve around the steam wand enhances the air entrainment (Venturi effect), adding to the power of the steam production. Many years ago we owned a countertop Krups espresso maker, and its failure to produce sufficient steam for foam was its biggest drawback, as was also the case with the above-mentioned DeLonghi model. One way to compare the steam production capability of the different espresso makers is to check out their pressure ratings. The ones with good ratings -- e.g., 15 bar or better -- will advertise them, while the ones that don't will be very quiet on this topic. The blurbs for our prior DeLonghi model, for example, say nothing about its pressure rating. And indeed it produced lousy foam levels, even though it boasted of having a pressure regulating knob as one of its controls.
Coffee tray
This one doesn't feel as tight-fitting or as easy to insert or remove as other models we've used, but it's large and does the job without problems. It has spouts for two cups, and the espresso comes out fairly vigorously and with a rich crema on top. Sometimes the coffee tray sticks to the unit on removal, which is avoided by pulling it off at an angle. The grounds appear a little on the mushy side when discarding them, not as dry or compacted as a professional maker would make them with its higher steam pressure level.
Bottom Tray
This is removable and is easily cleaned and reinserted. The metal top is a little too thin and vibrates when the unit is pouring espresso, causing the cups to vibrate around and even miss the spouts if you're not watching them. It's possible to operate the unit without the tray, so that you can use larger cups -- but it's not advisable as the bottom tray catches a lot of the excess from the steam production and you'll have a small watery mess to clean up.
The top of the unit
This is supposed to be a "warming tray" of sorts for the cups prior to pouring the espresso, but we haven't used it for such as ours doesn't get that warm. Also, the unit has a low profile, about 12 inches, which is great for fitting well underneath kitchen cabinets with room to spare, unlike some of the other models.
What This Unit WON'T Do
You actually have to make your espresso, as this isn't one of those models that do it all. Those ridicuously expensive units such as the Capresso for $2300 (!) will grind the beans, pour them into the chamber, and cycle through the espresso pouring and steaming for you. But c'mon, making your own is half the fun of having your home unit! In the near future Starbucks will be upgrading to fully automatic robot systems, and the artistry of their local baristas will be lost forever. Just because they go that route doesn't mean that you have to too.
Maintenance
After several months our espresso maker steam production capability began to wane, and our first thought was "Here we go again!" However, we decided to call Breville's customer service, where they told us to de-lime it by adding a solution of equal parts vinegar and water into the tank and running it several times. This we did, and after several subsequent cycles it was back to normal. (NOTE: our DeLonghi unit was weak-pressured at the outset). We have relatively soft water where we live, so this problem could be exacerbated in hard-water areas.
Another thing to be done routinely is to clean the hole of the steam wand nipple. Although we wipe clean the wand thoroughly each time and run a cleansing blast of steam afterward, you'll still need to occasionally remove the wand nipple and run a stylus (a small paper clip) through the hole. The provided tamping tool contains a hex wrench slot for removing this nipple.
Extras
This unit comes with two beautiful stainless steel espresso cups with matching saucers, and a steel milk foaming container. We've found that the latter was too small for our needs and use a larger sized container.
Our Capuccino Routine
We get up early every morning to make two cups of capuccino and two fruit smoothies (see our review of the VitaMix), which we then enjoy while soaking in our Bain Ultra spa/tub (followed by a quick cold shower for him). A great way to start every day! For making our capuccinos, we follow the recommendations of one of Peet's senior baristas by using only whole milk, along with a dip thermometer to get precise control of the milk temperature -- a critical aspect of good capuccino making. This barista also recommended that we tamp down the coffee by pressing the weight of one's body into the tamping tool as it's pressed against the container sitting on the countertop. After doing this, then twist the tamping tool into the coffee to prevent the "channeling" of water through it. We then run the espresso setting for a few seconds WITHOUT the coffee to charge the system appropriately. Then the coffee is added, and, when indicator light shuts off, we run the espresso function until our (eight ounce) cups are half full. The included instructions say 1/3, but this contradicts the standard recipe of half espresso and half milk. Then, when the unit is ready again, usually within a minute or so, we foam the milk using a thermometer, keeping the head of the wand at just below the fluid level to produce maximum entrainment of air. You've got it right if you hear a sucking sound. If you hear a bubbling sound you've got the wand too high, and you need to push it down further. When this process results in too much foam we plunge the wand deeper into the cup to reduce the froth-making. When the temperature is within the red zone (150 to 170 degrees F.) and the foam is at the top of the container, the milk is done and ready to be poured. Do the latter using a spoon as a dam to keep the foam in the container while pouring. After the milk is poured, use the spoon to scoop the foam into the cups. Again, we use a slightly larger container than the one provided with the unit.
We use Peet's Coffee's Espresso Forte coffee, ground for espresso, never purchased in quantities of more than a half pound (and ideally quarter pound). Another great coffee is the espresso blend made by the Coupa Cafe in Palo Alto.
The Bottom Line
This is a great espresso maker for the price, the best one that we've owned. Again, it's got the same guts as the die cast model for half the price. HOWEVER, if you've got a brand new granite countertop (as we do) and want the prettiest model around to go with it, then the latter might be the better way to go. We DO occasionally find ourselves imagining how much better the die cast model might have looked . . .
6/17/06 Update: Feedback from a Barista
We recently had our Breville unit evaluated by the owner of a new cofffee shop in Los Altos (Calif), and it got a very positive review. Thomas McBay, of Mr. English Coffee Roasting Company, had invited us to bring in our unit so that he could determine the best grind for it, and he made two cappucinos with it right in the shop. We learned from him that how finely the espresso coffee is ground is VERY important to the brewing process. He noted that the Breville's filter is much finer than that of his professional unit, and thus would not need as fine a grind as the latter. He admired the quality of the machine, and said that it would be ideal for a small shop that only made a few espresso drinks a day. He also showed us how to get a better foam, by moving the steaming wand up and down slightly during the process. He also suggested that you feel the bottom of the (steel) container and stop when it's too hot to touch. He also noted that the Breville's 15 bar rating was 5 bars higher that his professional unit's, and should be able to provide lots of pressure.
Our thanks to Mr English for his service and for his great coffee, both which are much better than Starbuck's.
(Lesson learned: If your espresso maker is very slow pushing the water through the filter, the problem is very likely the coffee -- it has been ground too finely for your unit)
September '07 Update
We recently received a FREE BRAND NEW Cafe Roma from Breville after calling them to ask how to get a new capuccino filter holder (the latch holding the cup had broken from too many times banging it in the sink to expel the grinds). We didn't even ask for a new unit, so we were extremely delighted with Breville's kindness (we sent the old one to them in exchange).
The new unit doesn't have the frothing enhancer, so we struggled at first with how to use the new steaming wand. Breville's instructions didn't help either, but we solved the problem and are now making RESTAURANT QUALITY brews. Here's what to do (I'm also adding some things that we did with the old unit):
1. Use a two-scoop portion of coffee for EACH eight ounce cup of capuccino that you prepare. This will assure a great crema and full flavor. Let's be honest here: the restaurant/coffee shop units will extract more espresso from each scoop of coffee, so this step is compensation for such.
2. Make sure that the grind works well for this unit. This is VERY IMPORTANT. We use either Illy fine espresso grind (caffe macinato, comes in a red trimmed can) or Peet's espresso grind set at no. 4. Experiment until you get a grind that flows EVENLY -- not too fast or too slow, with mostly a dark brown color -- with moderate tamping.
3. Make enough espresso to fill an eight-ounce cup to half full. Again, use TWO SCOOPS for EACH cup you prepare if you enjoy a rich full-bodied capuccino.
4. Use a 16 ounce frothing cup, NOT the 12 ounce cup that comes with your unit. The latter heats the milk too quickly and doesn't leave enough room for the foam. Fill this cup half-full with WHOLE milk, and insert a frothing thermometer. Also, keep the frothing cup and thermometer in the refrigerator so that they don't warm the milk prematurely. Some sources say that you'll get better results with skim or reduced fat milk, but with this unit we've gotten the best foam with whole milk. Besides, the latter has a much better flavor in capuccinos.
5. Run the frothing wand for ONE FULL MINUTE into an empty cup to allow the steam to build up and to purge any water out of the pipe.
6. Shut off the wand, insert it into the milk, and turn it back on.
7. Bring the tip of the steamer back up until it rests just below the surface of the milk, wherin you'll hear a "chit-chit" sound as the milk is sucked in by the stream of hot steam. If you get bubbles you have the tip of the wand too far out. If you hear nothing it's too far in. This is a VERY PRECISE spot to hold the tip -- if you need help holding the wand still, rest the wand pipe against the top of the foaming cup to keep it steady. Continue to keep the wand tip just below the surface, getting the "chit-chit" sound, as the level rises with increasing production of froth.
8. At about 140-145 degrees F. you should have raised the froth level to almost the top of the container (from the original half-full point). At this point plunge the tip of the wand into the milk to prevent further frothing and continue until the temperature reaches just under 150 degrees. Then take the wand out and you're done! Bang the cup down several times to break up any large bubbles. The resulting foam should be very small ("micro-foam") dispersed throughout the cup, and easily poured into a cup. If you've done a really good job with the foam, you can use it to make "capuccino art" as you pour it.
There are several good web sites on HOW TO FROTH MILK (use these search words), and you should check these out to learn the many other useful tips on making great capuccinos.
November 1, 2007 update
We've found that occasionally the filter will not work, preventing the espresso from coming out. Our solution to this problem is to soak the filter overnight in a solution of equal parts of vinegar and water. This appears to be a more important consideration than the size of the grind, as it's improved the flow every time regardless of the grind number.
2/20/08 Update:
For the past three months we've been using the Nespresso Essenza with the Aeroccino milk foamer, which we've decided is much better for us. We've also written an Epinions review on the Essenza.
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