lirubis's Full Review: Casa Noble Reposado Tequila
So, no new tequilas around here, huh? Well, the truth is Casa Noble gave its famous and unanimously adored Crystal a mild facelift, and the new version hit the US and Mexico stores around April 2006. I dont mean to brag about this, but I was fortunate enough to BE THERE when the owners gave the first bottle of the new Crystal to the famed and loved tequila enthusiast Ian Chadwick, along with other tequila aficionados, last March.
Tasting the new Crystal for the first time was thrilling. Doing it now is still a marvelous experience, because this is still among the top 3 blancos in most tequila aficionado lists, including myself.
So, what is new about this Blanco? Nothing has changed much, really, other than a few "minor" adjustments that were explained to us while visiting the factory. First, they are using "older" agaves, much more mature plants that adds character to the basic flavor structure. Second, the cooking time has gone from 36 to 38 hours, a bit less heat but the benefit is a more uniform cooking of the pinas. The fermentation process is still kept 100% natural yeast, no chemicals. But the most impressive change happens at the stills: distillation is done in a "slower" way, so alcohol vapors allow for more complex and robust agave aromas. On each of the 3 distillations, the "heads" (higher, more volatile alcohols" are discarded, as well as the "tails" (heavier, denser alcohols"), so the level of purity on flavors and smoothness are even better than before.
Ok, organoleptically speaking, the new Crystal tastes a bit different: yes, it surprises you with a sweeter, sharper agave presence, very green and fresh, now its like the aromas come in 3-D! I love the level off depth and definition Casa Noble has achieved in the flavor structure, preserving agave notes and amplifying them if you think such thing can be possible. The attack has been softened and the alcohol presence is very subtle for a blanco, a feature that some olf fans of Crystal have not taken well, but that many newcomers have found to be the exclamation point! The alcohol notes are mere highlights for the tremendous agave presence.
The mouth still preserves the delicious mild citrus notes of lime and grapefruit, a slight peppery accent on the upper tongue and the same grassy/herbal overnotes that made Crystal such a hit in the past. The overall sweetness sensation is stronger, to the point that it reminds me of some other favorites like Fina Estampa. The finish is elegant, prolonged heavenly in the throat and nose. Still, one of the top 5 best finishing spirits I can think of.
Personally, I think the transformation leaves me with a bit of good feeling and a bit of sadness: I am going to miss the rough edges that made Crystal a unique specimen where the agave flavor achieved full glory and the peppery kick felt true and honest. But I welcome the added smoothness and deeper flavor structure, which still places true agave feel and taste as the prime feature. When I need a kick in the face I will go back to 7 Leguas and Tapatio.
I call it "evolution". I can understand a super-premiun tequila as Casa NOble going the softer, deeper way, like all good artist that mature with time, and take their art to new levels. Crystal has reached a new stage where more refined and more untrained palates alike will be able to enjoy its full glory, and considering my inclination towards rougher blancos, Crystal will never cease to amaze me.
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