For a Change, try Slots... Shl... Schlah... ummm, Schlotzsky's, Darn It!
Written: Nov 27 '01
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Out of the ordinary fast food at a reasonable price
Cons: Some older stores a bit, err, industrial
The Bottom Line: Get a quick meal -- and not your ordinary fast food -- for not a lot of cash at the neighborhood Schlotzsky's. Just don't expect a New York-style deli.
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| scmrak's Full Review: Schlotzsky's |
Like it or not, all of us get older. If contemplating this inevitability gives you pause, consider the alternative. One of the things that happens to us as we age is a change in attitude about what we do to or put into our bodies. Our vain attempts to stop Father Time's inexorable march usually take the form of "fitness," "eating right," or the somewhat vague "taking care of ourselves."
Eating "Right"???
Let's ponder this business of eating "right." Ignore for the moment current dietary fads: Sugar Busters? High Protein? Gingko Bilboa and Taurine? History tells us that, regardless of their long-term nutritional value, every one of these diets will eventually find itself figuratively collecting dust, just like The Scarsdale Diet and Fit For Life, fad diets of decades past.
What we do know from almost every reliable source is that modern Americans (and a significant number of Europeans, too) have an execrable diet: high in virtually every dietary no-no, loaded with fat, loaded with sugar, loaded with salt. The culprits? We see 'em all over our TV screens ad nauseam: our buddies Dave, Ronald, the Colonel, that stupid Chihuahua, and even the Backstreet Boys; shilling for the fast food empires that clutch our arteries in a stranglehold.
I'm not much better that the average American, I fear. Oh, I haven't bellied up to the bar at Mickey-D's and ordered a QP with cheese in a couple of decades, and I haven't bought anything at Wendy's (except for a diet coke and a salad) in about as long. I never ate at Burger King to begin with. Under duress, though, I'll confess to an occasional nostalgic weakness for sliders (better known as White Castles).
My surviving weak spot, though, is a pseudo-deli chain that calls itself Schlotzsky's (even though there's never been anyone name Schlotzsky in the company) and uses the slogan "Funny name, serious sandwich." The chain is, by the by, an Austin original. It's only been a couple of years, in fact, since the site of the first Schlotzsky's sandwich shop fell to the wrecking ball. Given the glacial speed of construction in this town, I'll wager that the site is probably still a vacant lot...
Deli purists (mainly people who think the Katz's chain is a real deli) hate Schlotzsky's for having the temerity to call itself a "deli," grumbling that it's nothing like a delicatessen (true deli aficianodos think those same deli purists, by the way, are poseurs). Couldn't we level the same charges at the big chains for calling those flat brown things "burgers"? I think so.
But I digress (as usual).
An Evolving Concept
Schlotzsky's began life as specialists in little round sandwiches -- they still sell The Original, a variation on the old hero sandwich theme but served on a round bun. The mixture of meats -- ham and two kinds of salami -- cheeses, lettuce, tomato, onion, olives, and mustard isn't anything particularly new. It was always the bread that was different: a round sourdough bun with the texture of a toasted english muffin. Strange, isn't it, how it's the little innovations that make a difference?
In olden days, you had about three choices: the original, a larger original, and a ham-and-cheese version of the original, which features the three-cheese mixture (mozzarella, cheddar, parmesan) but lacks the salami.
Over the years, the chain has bowed to the will of the aging boomers, adding more "healthy fare" to its line. Additions have included tuna, turkey, vegetarian, and roasted chicken versions of the sandwich. They've also added more "deli-style" fare to the menu, such as roast beef sandwiches, a version of a Philly cheesesteak, and club sandwiches. The most recent addition to the menu is a line of personal pizzas, most of which would seriously offend pizza purists (hey! if you want pepperoni, go to the Hut!).
Chips are available in several styles, both national brands and Schlotzsky's house brand. The house brand chips are lower in fat than national brands. You can also pick up a soup of the day or one of several salad varieties, and you can finish off the meal with one of several desserts, including cookies, cheesecake, and fudge brownie cake. Beverages are Coca-Cola products (including lemonade) and iced tea.
The Down and Dirty Details
Ambiance It's fast food: no maitre d', no sommelier, no attentive waitrons. Your server is you. Most of the smaller stores in strip malls and food courts are plastic city, with a few formica tables and the typical fluorescent glare. Standalone stores (relatively new to the chain) are larger and feature an expanded floor plan with wooden chairs and tables and dividers. Some of the largest (like South Lamar, Austin) feature an in-store bakery and internet connections.
Service Style At most stores, you order from one window and pick up at a second when your number (or name) is called; some have those ubiquitous (or are they iniquitous?) buzzing coasters. The soft drinks and tea are self-service. At busy times, it can take several minutes to get your sandwich; up to ten if you ordered a pizza.
Service Features The food's served in plastic baskets: no china, no silver-plated flatware. You get plastic flatware, paper napkins, and those big plastic glasses.
Cost I'm quoting local prices here: the sandwiches cost about $3.50 for a regular, $4.50 for a large. Pizzas range in price from $4 to $5, chips are 89 cents and drinks are $1.29, $1.39 for a large. "Deli Deals" -- sandwich or pizza, chips and a drink -- are available for a discount. All in all, it's easy to get out for about seven dollars per person for lunch. The kids' combinations -- mini cheese pizza or cheese sandwich, soft drink and cookie -- are $2.99 each. Most stores accept Visa and Mastercard; a few will take checks. All (I'm told) still take cash.
The Food Itself
It's said that the proof is in the pudding -- but Schlotszky's doesn't serve pudding...
The sandwiches are meaty and cheesy, and the bread is... well, the bread is different. As mentioned above, the texture is much like an English muffin: open and airy, and slightly chewy. Since the sandwich is toasted, the cheese combination is nicely melted over the meat and bun, and then the veggies and condiments are added on top. Although not strictly delicatessen fare, the "Original" series of sandwiches is certainly different from the usual beef-patty-on-a-bun. My personal favorite is the turkey original; Ms scmrak likes the albacore tuna.
The line of mini-pizzas includes a Thai chicken (Ms scmrak's favorite), chicken pesto, and smoked turkey & jalapeno (my choice), among others. They're served on an herbed sourdough crust, which is a bit on the chewy side.
For those of you who don't eat anything with eyes, my friend Jill assures me that you can get an honestly vegetarian meal there, with the veggie sandwich or one of two vegetarian pizzas (you'd have to ask them to hold the cheese, though, if you're a true vegan).
Overall
While certainly not fine cuisine, Schlotzsky's is definitely a change from the ordinary. The chain gives good value for the price, and it's possible to eat a relatively healthy diet. For those among us who have given up on "fast food," or those who are tired of the grease-laden fare available at the corner golden-flame-broiled-kentucky-bell, why not give Schlotzsky's a try? Maybe you'll even learn how to spell their name!
Try the website at http://www.cooldeli.com/ to find the nearest store.
Recommended:
Yes
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