My Situation
I am on a contract consulting job here for about three months overall (less if I can finish it quicker). I have been here for one month now. I actually live in an apartment in Kowloon and work in Kowloon.

I am Asian-American and I speak Mandarin fluently, but I do not speak Cantonese, the main language of communication here. I also cannot read or write Chinese. I am primarily an English speaker.

I've noticed most of the Kowloon reviews are from a couple years ago. Since then, Hong Kong has suffered a drastic economic downturn, which makes a large difference in how one experienced HK back then as opposed to now.

The Food
Depending on where you eat, good food can be had at excellent prices. I average about $10 USD a day for breakfast, lunch, snacks, & dinner. When I actually go out to a nice restaurant (as opposed to buying from food stands), I spend about $10 USD for a good size meal (no alcohol).

*Cheap Food
The downside to cheap food is that they are in small hole-in-wall places whose menus are in Cantonese. The upside is that they serve good food. These are "food stands." There is an open area kitchen and limited seating. In this instance, look to see what everyone else is having and just point. These food stands are located all over Kowloon. Go to one that is fairly crowded with locals and you'll know that it has good, cheap food.

If you decide to eat in at such a place, all of them will pour you a cup of tea and give you an empty bowl. You must pour your tea into that bowl, take your tea cup and wash it with the tea. Put your spoon and chopstick in the bowl and rinse them. The waiter will come around and empty the tea.

*Dining Out
Kowloon has some of the best food I've ever had and more places to dine than I've ever seen. Seafood is their forte and can be had for very cheap prices. If you need to find a place with an English menu, the districts of Tsim Sha Tsui and Kowloon Tong are your best bets.

Of course the overwhelming majoring of restaurants serve Asian cuisine "dim sum" style. This is the best way to go for those of you new to an Asian country. Dim sum dining allows you to choose several little dishes to try out (think Spanish tapas). Sometimes, the waiters will push them out in little carts and you can actually see what you're getting. For the hesitant diner, I highly recommend dim sum style dining.

If you're in the mood for another country's fare, Indian is a speciality in Tsim Sha Tsui. Though TST is a tourist district, it is also home to the Indian population in Hong Kong. Most of the Indian restaurants in TST are located in side-streets, upstairs a non-descript building. Try the Taj Mahal. It has excellent food at reasonable prices. The address can be located in The Lonely Planet guidebook.

Note: The Taj Mahal is located upstairs a hard to find and very scary side-street building. While the walk there may scare you, do not worry. The restaurant is very clean.

Italian, French, and other types of food are plentiful in Hong Kong, but the majority are located in shopping malls. This is not an indication of quality. Remember in HK, there is no room to build out, just up, so you will hardly find any free-standing restaurants. The "foreign" cuisine is HK is very good. If you're looking for French, try Le Cite, which is in a couple locations all over Kowloon & Hong Kong Island. The seafood is almost always fresh so if you're ever in doubt, order the seafood dish. Be careful buying from food carts out in the tourist districts. Unless you see a local buying from it, do not buy it.

You normally do not need to tip in Hong Kong. I am too Americanized not to give a little bit, but it is not necessary.

The restaurants are numerous and the competition is very high in HK. When you leave a restaurant, most will give you a V.I.P. card for 10% off on your next visit to entice you to come back. If you're going to be here a while, hold on to them. Sometimes you will get bonus stuff for free. The holds true with clothing stores also.

Shopping
You can always bargain in Kowloon. Do not forget that. It may be harder for you if you obviously look like a tourist, but don't settle for the first price they quote you.

Tsim Sha Tsui is the first choice of shopping for most tourists. Because of the economic recession, prices have decreased somewhat, but are still rather high. Be careful of pickpockets in Kowloon, especially in TST. People will also rush up to you to try to hand you fliers. If you go to the Indian district of TST where they sell fake watches "copy watch, copy watch," and other items, you will most likely be mobbed. It's a frightening feeling, but just push your way through. I hate to be un-feminist about this to you ladies, but it is really better having a guy with you if you're going shopping in TST. The local sellers will be less likely to mob or cheat you. Hong Kong is still traditional in many aspects including their attitudes towards women who walk alone. Go shopping with a guy or a another girl friend.

*Electronics
Years ago Nathan Road used to be the place to buy electronics. This is not the case anymore. I would not recommend buying electronics in Hong Kong in general. The prices here are the same if not higher than those in the United States, even with bargaining.

However, technology does tend to come out faster in HK than anywhere else, with the exception of Japan. If you have to have that thingamajig before anyone else, you can get it in Hong Kong. Though you can bargain in Nathan Road, do it more subtly. Ask what sort of discount you'd get if you buy a memory card too, or mention that the shop around the corner had that digital camera on sale for less. They will most likely lower their price.

*Clothing
I have found that HK is the best place for clothing. On the Kowloon side, TST offers the most variety for designer wear. If you are looking for Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, etc., go to TST. If you want stylish clothing at cheap prices, then I recommend Kowloon Tong. Hong Kong is famous for its numerous shopping malls. The clothes in these places are always "on sale" and marked down 60, 40, 30 percent. For $100 USD, I got nearly a small suitcase worth of good quality clothing. Name brands like Espirit and Gap tend to be cheaper in HK also.

For the men, get your suits made in Hong Kong. The tailors here are very good and very cheap. For $70 USD, you can get an extremely high quality custom-made suit made. I have been trying to find a place that makes women's suits, but I haven't had much luck. If I find one, I'll update this review for you ladies out there.

For those of you who like to bargain for your clothes, know that you can bargain in-store, but if you seem clumsy doing it, they won't play the game with you. If you want to bargain openly, go to Mong Kok. Yes it's a tourist district, but it's fun. It's situated like a huge bazaar and you will find many English speakers and foreigners there. Not only will you find clothes, but you can also buy shoes, accessories, electronics, art work, figurines, small children, and anything else they can sell.

Note for Women: Though Hong Kong women are very stylish, they normally do not wear strappy high heels, shorts, or short skirts. If you wear any of the above to a non-tourist district, you will be stared at. If you are obviously a foreigner, you can get away with it. If you look Asian, but are not native, I would suggest you not wear any of the above as you might get dirty looks from women and *a-hem* dirty suggestions from men. Unfair, I know.


*Jewelry
Gold, jade, and pearls are the most popular sellers in HK. Tsim Sha Tsui or Yau Ma Tei have the most jewelry stores. This does not mean they have the best price. In fact, if I were to recommend buying jewelry anywhere, I'd say go to Shenzhen China, just 30 min away by MTR (Their subway system).

As always, you can bargain in Kowloon. Caveat emptor when purchasing jewelry. TST and YMT are tourist districts and some people will try to cheat you.

Note: Tips on buying jade and pearls:
Authentic jade is normally cold to the touch, even in warm rooms. Hold it loosely in your hands for a moment and see how fast it warms up. If it gets warm immediately, it could be fake. A string of real pearls will not match in size or roundness, especially if you think you've gotten a good deal on it. Perfectly matched pearls are very rare and very expensive. Pink-tinged pearls are normally Japanese pearls and they are SYNTHETIC, even if they are billed as "real". They are made in a lab and/or cultured and therefore are of less value. The most expensive kind of pearl available are black pearls or rainbow pearls. If you are getting some for cheap, they probably aren't real. Knowing something about jewelry before you buy is good advice for anywhere. Don't be sucked in by the cheap prices.

The Nightlife
Most foreigners and tourists like to go to Central (of the Hong Kong Island side) to a place called Lan Kwai Fong to party. More English-speakers are there as well as more bars and clubs. Keep in mind that because this is a tourist party place, the drinks are quite expensive. LKF is practically the only place that has free-standing bars, but the places are very, very tiny.

Kowloon is better for those who want to hang out with the locals or just chill with your friends. TST and Mong Kok have the best bars. You will need to ask a local or look up a destination in The Lonely Plant to find these places. The bars in Kowloon and Hong Kong Island are usually located inside buildings and are a bit hard to find. It's a little strange to go into an elevator to get to a bar, but it's also very convenient because every floor will have a different bar. If you are turned away at Floor 11, just go a floor down or up to try again. The bar scene can be rowdy or relaxing depending where you go, but the people are normally very nice and fun to be with. The drinks are also cheaper in Kowloon. We got a mini-keg of Carlsbad Beer at our table for less than $13 USD.

Note: HK bars do turn away people. In fact, I think they might be pickier then some trendy NYC or L.A. bars in the United States. To go to a local bar, it helps to have a local with you. To get in at LKF, you will need to dress up and if you're turned away, try again later.

Kowloon does not have many clubs for dancing but LKF does and they are fun. Kowloon is lacking in that aspect, but on the other hand, Hong Kong is very small and you can get to Central on Hong Island in 20 minutes from anywhere in Kowloon by MTR. Most foreigners are more comfortable with the Hong Kong Island (Central - Lan Kwai Fong) nightlife because they are surrounded by familiar faces and dialects. It's just like a night out in New York. However, if you're more adventurous and would like to get a sense of the real Hong Kong culture, party in Kowloon with the locals instead.

Other Entertainment Options
*Museums and Operas
For some reason, Hong Kong has redone most of their museums so that there are less artifacts and more "informational" television programs. It's not fun or entertaining. You spend most of the time at the museums staring at television screens. The Museum of History is the only one I recommend.

The Hong Kong Cultural Center puts on many operas and musicals a month. They are quite expensive, not so bad as NYC, but more than what you'd pay for any other entertainment in HK.

*Parks
The Kowloon Park is the best and biggest park in Kowloon. It is a bit disturbing to see all that greenery surrounding by skyscrapers. I recommend going at night with someone you like. It's very romantic with all its flowers, ponds, and flamingos. Watch out for couples making out!

Ocean Park is a huge water park where many tourists and locals alike go to play. I went when I was younger and the experience still sticks in my mind. Think Six Flags' water park and double that. That's how big it is.

Transportation
The subway/underground in Hong Kong is called the MTR. In Kowloon, you will ride the GREEN line. It will get you anywhere and it is very clean. You may not eat or drink anywhere in the MTR and if you do and get caught, you will be fined. There are security guards everywhere that will ticket you, but they also make the MTR very safe. I have never feared riding it even at night. If I had one complaint, it would be the closing time. They vary in closing times, but most close around 12:30 to 1:00am, very early if you like to go out.

You may also ride the buses. There are three types: Mini-Bus, Bus, & Double-Decker Bus. The minis go short distances and you call yell at the driver to stop anywhere. The buses go medium distances and they will stop at any bustop along their route even if it's not on their official route. You will need to press a "stop" button located above your seat. The double-decker buses will only stop at their stops and nowhere else. Learn this word "Yau-lock." It means "stop." When you can barely see your destination, yell it out. They need time to stop.

Taxis are really the only available forms of transportation late at night though HK claims to have some all-night buses. Know where you are going because they will drive foreigners around in circles to make more money. If you know they did this and protest before paying, they will charge you the correct amount. Try to learn the Cantonese word for your destination and they will be much less likely to cheat you. Most taxi drivers can speak a bit of English and Mandarin. You do not need to tip taxis in Hong Kong. I happen to think the taxis are quite cheap here, but I am coming from New York City.

If you are staying for more than a week, get an Octopus card and your life will be much easier. You put money on these cards and swipe them through for the MTR and buses. The MTR does NOT accept money/change. You will have to buy a one-way temp. card if you do not get an Octopus. The buses will accept coins (no paper money). Have the right amount as they do not give back any change. Octopus cards are also accepted at all 7-11s and some restaurants.

Driving is very dangerous in Hong Kong and pedestrians do NOT have right of way. They paint "look left" and "look right" on the streets of the tourist districts. Make sure you do this or you will get run over. I mean it. They drive fast and without care here. Jay-walking occurs somewhat in the tourist districts, but do not do this anywhere else. It is dangerous.

Where to Stay
Stay in Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. It has the best hotels, including the best in Hong Kong, called The Peninsula. If you want a great place to stay, take a look at my review of the Marco Polo hotels. I had a very pleasant time there.

If you are looking to buy a place, now is the time. The housing market has collapsed here due to the recession and apartments can be bought for 50% less than they were just two years ago.

Overall
There is a big difference between actually living in Kowloon (like me) and just visiting. While I would never live in Kowloon again (it's just not my thing), it is a great place to visit. The food is quite fabulous and the options for shopping are wonderful. You can have fun if you know where to go and what to look for.

If you ever are in Hong Kong, it would be a shame to miss Kowloon. Hong Kong is made up of two major parts: Hong Kong Island & Kowloon. To skip Kowloon is to skip out on Hong Kong's other half of life. I would visit it again and I would recommend anyone else to see what Kowloon has to offer.



Recommended: Yes

Best Suited For: Friends
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb