Set sail for Udaipur and Jaipur
Written: Mar 06 '00 (Updated Jul 29 '06)
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Pros: Experience these fabulous old cities, the culture, amazing history
Cons: Might be too busy for some people, expensive to get there!
The Bottom Line: A fest for all the senses. A life changing event.
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| Rob.'s Full Review: Jaipur |
Pack your trunk, hail a fond farewell to your nearest and dearest, and set sail with me to India. Well actually I think it was the English cricket team of 1864 who were the last group to actually sail to India, so I would suggest flying:
Prepare yourself for a feast for the senses, you will get it all and more in Udaipur and Jaipur. Foul smells and fair, bright colors and dull reds, disorder and order, the best of spices, elephants, red cities, sounds and sights to bewilder your senses and leave you sated and forever longing to return.
From smooth dancing in my tuxedo in The Lake Palace Hotel Udaipur on New Year's Eve - to sitting in the smoky cafe at a busy intersection in Jaipur, sipping chai and nibbling culfi with the Chief of Police, these cities will bewilder and dazzle you
How do I even prepare to write it all, it is almost an insult to describe the journey on the written page - but here goes:
The Palace, Udaipur
Yes - THE Palace. No longer as unknown a jewel is this Hotel, for it has adorned the covers of many famous Travel Magazines, and perhaps sits upon your coffee table (if you have a "Worlds Best Hotels" books that is). I am of course talking of the "Lake Palace Udaipur". If sumptuous luxury with no lack of frills attached is your meat and drink, then stay at this immaculate hotel. If your budget is that of the backpacker then you should at least don your best pair of shorts and visit this incredible place.
Perhaps only a handful of hotels sit upon their own island, in fact the hotel IS the island. Once a beautiful Palace this Hotel is definitely one of the most luxurious hotels anywhere - and certainly the best that I have ever visited. The only way to get to the hotel is by one of the hotels launches. If possible it is best to arrive in the evening, just after the sun has set and night has cast itself over the land
WOW - I assure you that even the grandest and "I've seen it all" types amongst you will catch their breath. I stood agog at the sight
You arrive on the pier to wait for your launch and there - floating in the blackness in the center of the lake is the hotel - or rather the silhouette of the hotel in bright white lights. You are as if transported into a fairy tale as the launch sets off and you approach this most beautiful of all hotels. You soon find yourself off the launch and at the entrance. All I can say is that someone sold someone a LOT of lightbulbs in Udaipur
look back at the city and you will see another display of lights silhouetting the buildings (the city is a mass of old buildings and a might fortified palace). Trying to adopt the necessary "casual elegance" and "very well moneyed" look, you glide inside, your bags following with the assistance of a myriad of bellboys.
We had chosen a room with a view - you have many choices of the view and we went for the view out into the lake, the rooms with views looking back towards Udaipur are much more expensive. The rooms themselves are luxurious but do not confer the same exquisite level of elegance as the grounds, restaurants and hallways. You simply have to wander about trying to look casually elegant, but in reality stopping your jaw from dropping. If only I had several million dollars I would live her ( you will undoubtedly think to yourself)
.
We arrived on New Years Eve - and believe me you have to book your room a LONG time in advance for New Years Eve. But the efforts were more than worthwhile. Somehow we had managed to successfully transport tuxedo and a gown to the hotel, and we fitted right in - the guests were from the world over - USA, England, Japan and India. After filling ourselves in the restaurant we sauntered to the inner courtyard (the Lily Pond) of the hotel which had been prepared for the party. Dancing and sipping champagne here - overlooked by the Palace, dressed in our very best - we could have been kings and queens, sheiks or oil barons
. At midnight the fireworks lit the night sky
wow - fireworks above us, the most beautiful hotel surrounding us and beyond the lake and ancient city of Udaipur
If you can possibly afford this you should do it, the reality is much better than I could ever describe.
Next morning we woke as early as possible and watched the sky awaken and the sun creep up over the morning mist. Other islands on the lake appeared - some inhabited. The city itself began to stir and we hurried to breakfast in the hotels cafe, eager now to leave and visit the ancient city.
Amber Fort - near Jaipur
Like stepping back a thousand years - but with a jeep and a can of coke
. you should experience Amber Fort near Jaipur. Take a wild drive up to this huge fort and experience yesterdays power and might of India. Let yourself wander through the grounds - avoiding the monkeys if you can (don't wear a floppy hat and secure those cameras - the monkeys love to steal them and they are very fast and twice as strong).
Make sure you see the 'mirror' room (formerly that of a princess) and hear the tale told by the blind man who is within. Truly a magical room and an experience that will haunt you thereafter.
But it is the elephants that steal the show - yes there are about twenty elephants with their keepers and these ferry people back and forth from the fort to the car park below. You might consider going downhill on one - if you have an extra hour or so. Even if you decide to forego that pleasure - at least take a short ride within the castle walls. The elephants are tame and seem quite happy - and are certainly painted with beautiful colored paints!
Before you leave the car park - you must visit the gift shop - it is one of the few run by the state authorities and the quality of their goods is guaranteed. However have your VERY best 'haggling' hat on if you decide to buy, fluent Hindi would also be beneficial!
The Pink City - Jaipur
Wake early in Jaipur - very early - and experience a city coming alive. See the transformation from the cold of night (yes it gets cold in this part of India) to an amazing scene filled with color, smell and people. This walled city was founded in 1727 and is a marvel of town planning, built in seven rectangular areas - following the caste system.
The City Palace - Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum
The center of the city has the 18th century City Palace, make sure you visit early - it gets very busy. This extensive palace is beautifully preserved and contains beautiful textiles and costumes, musical instruments, fabulous glass objects. It really is like stepping back in time - you can wander through art galleries, look at 16th century Heart, Kabul and Lahore carpets. Indulge yourself in fading 19th century photographs of the region. Most fascinating for me was the Sileh Khana (the Armory Section) - but it contains much more than just weapons
. It is one of the oldest and most extensive collections of Indian weapons and memorabilia anywhere. From 18th century water coolers to heavy swords, armor and lock guns - all fascinating. Even a 'nighttime' polo ball used by Emperor Akbar.
Hawa Mahal
On to the famous Hawa Mahal - a towering facade of a palace overlooking the busy streets designed in pink brick as is much of the old city. From the windows of this palace is where the princesses and ladies could oversee the busy streets without being seen. Now it is a tourist attraction and well worth visiting - the architecture is fascinating and the views of the city from the top is unrivalled.
But the city itself steals the show. More exciting to me than Mumbai (Bombay) because it is less visited by foreign tourists I found the city both inviting and busy. You can wander down the busy streets - dodging bicycles, motorbikes and rickshaws - wander in and out of hundreds of tiny shops and chai rooms. Although language can be a problem, I experienced no problems - the people are friendly and try to help as much as possible. Just be aware that you are a tourist and dress accordingly to fit in with this busy city.
Another Royal Palace - now a hotel
We were again very luck to stay in a Royal Palace in Jaipur - called the Raj Palace, dating back to 1728. It is a five storied haveli with central open courtyard, located near to the main entrance to The Pink City. Although smaller than The Lake Palace, this hotel felt untouched and very regal. The rooms (and you have to bargain hard to get the better rooms) are rich and sumptuous - twenty five sumptuous suites. Make sure to ask for a heater and extra blankets though.
This palace has only recently been transformed into a hotel and did not have facilities for evening meals, but besides this it was perfect. We felt like royalty - well outnumbered by the numerous employees. There are rooms decorated in gold, the facilities in each room are exactly what you would have in any hotel in the world and the Chandi Chowk (coffee shop) in the inner courtyard is beautiful.
Jantar Mantar (Sanskrit for 'Magical Device')
Built in 1728 these sundials are huge - there are many of them in an area near to the Palaces. They are a marvel of engineering and a wonderful experience. you can literally climb them and experience 'first hand' these marvelous creations. Begin to understand the level of technology and creativity that was put into these measurement tools. Because of their size - these observation tools are still extremely accurate today. For anyone - the Jantar Mantar Observatory is an amazing experience.
Sit a while and soak it all in
We found some magnificent places to eat, most of them local - but most of all we enjoyed finding the little chai cafes. the best was close to the center of the city, near to the Hawa Mahal. From here we would simply sit and watch the busy streets, rickshaws and busy people going about their business. We found ourselves in conversation with the Chief of Police who was very interested in our visit and encouraged us to see the whole city. His friendliness and warmth toward us epitomized the whole city.
I love India and the jewels are Udaipur and Jaipur. Visit if you can.
Some useful information:
We chose to visit Udaipur and Jaipur at the same time, it is a short flight between the two cities, be warned - it can be VERY chaotic at the airports, hire the services of a good taxi driver and let him get your luggage - otherwise it can be a harrowing experience!
Be aware that you will need a Visitors Visa to visit India from most countries, I recommend that you apply several months in advance to the local Indian Embassy.
The Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur (part of the Taj Group of Hotels)
PO Box No 5, Udaipur, 313-001
Telephone: +91 (0)294 527961
Fax: +91 (0)294 527974
You should visit the website - just to see the pictures!
http://www.taj.to/tajudai.htm
The Raj Palace, Jaipur (part of the GKV group of Hotels)
Chomu Haveli
Zorawar Singh Gate
Amer Road, Jaipur, 302-002
Telephone: +91 (0)141 45534
Fax: +91 (0)141 630489
You simply have to see their website:
http://rajpalace.com
The City Palace - Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum
City Palace
Jaipur
Telephone: +91 (0)141 608055
Government of India Tourist Offices:
New York: 30 Rockefeller Plaza, Suite 15,
North Mezzanine, New York, NY 10112
Telephone: 212 586-4901
Fax: 212 582-3274
Los Angeles: 3550 Wilshire Boulevard, Suite 204,
Los Angeles, CA 90010
Telephone: 213 380-8855
Fax: 213 380-6111
Jantar Wantar (the Observatory)
I found this amazing website, giving full details and pictures of the Jantar Mantar:
http://www.bomhard.de/_englisch/index.htm
There are many websites about India, below I am listing one about Udaipur and one about Jaipur:
(I apologize about the 'pop-up' windows in the Jaipur website, but the site is a good quality site with nice pictures)
http://www.udaipur.net
http://www.travel.to/jaipur
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID: Rob.
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Member: Robert Martindale
Reviews written: 22
Trusted by: 140 members
About Me: An original member - alive and kicking again...
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